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www TH* MoHKfRY PlAITOBALlR, KeHSlfKY \*£l- •£ ,wf 7. ** " ' " " ' -• Is QB? "S Peach Crop of Georgia Procarrier. approximate vided Excellent Example of Unavoidable Loss. COCOA. fte mode has never known a season N btf which careful selection, and correct guidance were as essential as they are this autumn, asserts a Paris fashion writer in the New York Herald- Tribune. The Paris couturier, appreciating the strong attractions of the simple styles of recent s<*a«ons, and recognizing at the same time an Insistent undercurrent which demanded radical changes, has timidly, compromised the question and offered a little of each. Nearly every fall collection-- there are a few notable exceptions-- has adhered to the straight and •lender mode and has placated Its conscience by introducing in addition new fashion types -such as the directoire and other period effects. The features which are definitely ' certain to achieve a permanent place in fall and winter fashions are the high neckline, the short skirt, long sleeves, the tunic and the gngephle. Details of the important Paris exhibitions follow: Lanvln. Jeanne Lanvln's collection Is distinguished by exquisite workmanship, a wealth of detail and a clever combination of color and material. She calls upon several periods for her inspiration. There are the long-waisted gilets with full flowing skirts of the Louis XV period, the robes de style of the early Nineteenth century and medieval sleeves and tunics which are seen side by side with gowns that . are reminiscent of the Venetian Eighteenth century. The Persian Influence la apparent In some of the embrold- «ries and color schemes. J^ats are like Minerva's helmet, or of Russian Inspiration, or else little tam-o'-shanters that recall the cap worn by Romeo in the Cocteau presentation of 4,Romeo et Juliette." Nearly all the evening gowns are robes de style with Immensely full skirts touching the ground. Taffetas, tulle and satin are their principal materials. There "Is less "use of ottoman than In most other collections. Coats are made of fine woolen fabrics with a clever use of several kinds of fur . worked into a mosaic pattern of interlaced diamond motifs or slgzags, notably in white rabbit, seal, mus quash and nutria. These form the collar and cuffs .and border the lining of a wrap, and sometimes trim a dress. Coat sleeves are capacious and often have a sort of melon shape, rounded from the elbow to the wrist and adorned with an applique pattern of fur, flat squirrel or gazelle. In cut they are -either straight sack, wrapping round the figure, or else fitted ( in slightly at the waist with a wide flare to the hem. In the latter case they are finished with a high fur collar, gauntlet cuffs of fur. Blouses are particularly attractive. Some of them are short, when worn with the short coats, others are long and versatile in cut. One interesting model in heavy crepe de chine is fitted slightly at the waist and has the three-quarter skirt cut up into medieval panels. Bright yellow is worn with blue, a new deep tone of cyclamen or royal blue with black, and turquoise blue or white with green. Callot. Callot favors the straight line for tailor-mades and! morning frocks and also for sheath evening gowns, which are generally made of tulle heavily embroidered with beads. There is, however, much of the godet movement in this collection, and great emphasis is laid on fullness and ornamentation in the front while the back Is quite plain. variola term and la as*sy taoMi it a wide cross-over drapery In front This may take the form of enormous kimono cuffs that are folded over each other or else laid side by side. Sometimes this Is done with wide stole draperies In the front, or else wide flaps may be sew.ed slanting just behind the sleeve and brought over to the front in a similar manner. The draperies which are traditional with Callot are very much to the fore this autumn. She stlli favors the wide band of material draped round the hips with a cascade arrangement at the side or cepter front. Very wide hip belts, both In satin and leather, are a feature of the "collection. In the latter case they are finished with wide buckles while in the former they are tied in a knot or bow at the front. Very wide > wing sleeves that give a teagown appearance are seen on many dresses that are obviously for more conventional wear. They. are also used on afternoon coats, in which Boy Shoot* Brother en Mistake for Panther Hagerstown. lid. -- Mistaken for the paather which has been roaming the mountains above Clear Spring, west of here, Morris Weaver, seventeen years old, was shot and instantly killed by his brother, Kenneth Weaver. ' The boys were hunting squirrels, but neither knew the other was in that section of the woods. When a head protruded over a rock, Kenneth, fearing It was ;/ 'he panther they had seen on several occasions In the last few weeks, fired. Seeing a movement in the hushes, he fired again, and then ran home and told his mother he bad killed the panther. A few moments later the father, who had Just come out of the woods, heard a scream, and believing they also had bee«| attacked by the beast, hurried Into the woods, only to find his wife and son hearing the dead body of his other boy. POSSIBLE TO WIN FAME IN PRISON Convict Pianist Ga£rti deputation hy Radio. Jefferson City, Mo.--Many people regard a prison as the last place In which to achieve fame, but the case of Harry Snodgtass, convict In the Missouri State penitentiary here, is an exception. For Harry, although serving a term behind the stone walls of the state prison, has not only achieved renown, but he has acquired nationwide fame, as well--chiefly due to radio. More" than two years ago he was sentenced to serve three years on a charge of attempted robbery. He entered prison virtually unknown, but today his name is familiar to persons lu almost every section of the country. Harry brought a gift of his fingers with him. He Is a pianist of rare ability and can play with extraordinary skill and technique, several masters have declared. Soon he was playing once a week or more at the state broadcasting station WOS. one of the most powerful in the country. People began to write asking who the "wonderful" pianist was. His name became known, and now Snodgrass' renditions both of popular and classical music are given to a wide radio audience. Black Velvet Frock, Beltlses, Featuring Circular Flounce, Tight Sleeves. case they are embroidered or are of a contrasting material to the rest of the coat. Capes are made in every conceivable material and for every purpose. In tweed they are collared and edged with fur such as gazelle, squirrel and the flat varieties of hare, and cut in a wide, circular movement that is practical for traveling. In velvet and cloth they are trimmed with more costly furs, and the Venetian collar movement is often used. There Is no doubt that Callot considers the cape an important item of the winter wardrobe. Genuine Spanish Influence makes Itself felt In this collection. There Is a black lace dress, edged with fringe draped over one shoulder with a bunch of brilliant flowers, worn over a red satin sheath, that might have come straight from-Seville, and there are endless tassels decorating the dresses which also give a Spanish atmosphfliphK^ ^ WORTH Worth is enthusiastically adopting the exceedingly short skirt this season. His tailored frocks and suits are almost 17 inches from the ground, and the afternoon and evening gowns at least 14 or 15 inches. He has two silhouettes, the straight line and that with a circular flare at the tides. In a few Instances tunics and evening gowns are circular all round, but without any excess of fullness. There are two types of tailor-made suits. One features a short coat to the hips, fitting below the waist, and Is developed in men's wear suitings, plaids or kasha. Most of them have fur collar and cuffs and are worn with crepe de chine blouses. The other type of tailored suit has a threequarter length coat, often with a flare movement at the sides, and is made chiefly In vegetables silk br rttoman, bordered with fur such as skunk, lynx, renardeau, squirrel and gazelle. Small melon-shaped and round muffs are often carried- with these costumes. The dominating note of the afternoon gowns Is the use of blade satin and fulgurante. Most of these frocks have three-quarter coats to match. Some of the dresses exploit long, white tunics of velvet, satin or crepe romain, most of them straight although some have a definite circular movement. The double coat effect, a feature of this season's collections, Is seen In s three-piece costuuie of beige crepe romain with a lining and edge of nutria. The straight frock worn beneath it has a hem of the for and a narrow feeder of ft mmd it* bateau neck. . • " • . ' •• 5 Rene* Renee's autumn showing is characterized by tine workmanship, clever manipulation of ribbon material as trimming, subdued and restrained coloring and » silhouette that is sliuf and straight although occasional models evidence a slight fullness. While other houses are '•oncentrating ou the beltless dress and tunic, Itenee has a belt or even a sash on almost every model. She uses many buttons as trimmings as well as for fastening purposes. Prisoners Arts Made to Sing and Talk BcAhL--One of the most Interesting by-products of the World war has been the founding in Berlin of an "anthropophonetic" library as a part of the Prussian state library. It Is an aggregation of human sounds perpetuated upon phonograph plates and was founded by Prof. Wilhelm Doegen. Struck by the idea that the presence of the prisoners of war from every quarter of the globe lp German Internment camps afforded a unique opportunity for assembling a collection of sounds and songs and pronunciations of words, he undertook the task. Professor Doegen spent months In visiting the prison camps as head of a commission of scientists, and asked the prisoners to sing folk songs and pronounce words and utter various characteristic music on native Instruments of various countries. The collection of sounds now numbers some 3.000, and includes those from most nations of the earth, aa I'rofeRsor Dozen's researches were greatly extended after the war. Of each reproduction three original plates are made with an estimated life of 9.000 or 10.000 years. These sre carefully stored In the vaults of the library, while ordinary hard-rubber plates are used for the demonstrations. ^ More lately the collection has been extended to Include noises In nature, such as the rustling of leaves, the whistling of the wind, the roar of the ocean and the roll of thunder. Ornaments and Jewels Still Hold Attention An appreciation of the best In the art of the Oiient is reflected in many of the ornaments and jewels for which there continues to be a perfect craze. The flashy cheap things of glass, in which ingenuity appears to have been exhausted in amusing designs, have become tiresome to tbe women who first went In for the fad, observes a writer In the New York Times. They are now wearing things of artistic and Intrinsic value, with a preference for the unusual. To be Interesting nowadays, jewels must be out of the ordinary, a point that Is sometimes carried to most surprising extremes. They must, too, have some Importance. Women of fashion are bored with strands of glass beads and all the gewgaws of su<3b obvious cheapness that their novelty long ago wore off. Amber and quartz have always been in vogue for necklaces and long chains, and they are now shown in the most attractive varieties- mi beautiful unfamiliar Genuine Jade Is exceedingly fashionable at the moment, particularly the white variety--a fascinating, milky shade of gray-green. One of the most artistic necklaces found lately in one of the exclusive smaller shops Is made of pale green Jade and moonstone, tbe beads alternating. Another chain of white Jade beads Is fastened with a large oval clasp of moonstone, quite blue In color. With this 1s to be worn a bracelet, like tfie old Chinese amulets of Jade, carved to resemble a twisted cord. , Bacullte In a golden shade of amber makes charming necklaces, and there Is a great demand for amethyst matrix, some most lovely chains being of large, pale amethyst heads, gracefully carved. Bead necklaces, chains snd pendants are not going out. It is good fun to wear them, and they will long continue In style with can-, stantljr varying and ne* designs. A great many people who expect to be angels may need asbestos wing*. Disrobe Man in Park and Steed His Clothes New York.--Everybody In'the neighborhood seemed to be In Yorkville court when George Preston told his tale. What with the crimson damask hangings of the bench and the rosy blushes of the court attendants, spectators and police gave the courtroom the air of a garden of red. red roses in June; only it didn't smell so good. Mr. Preston informed the court that while strolling In Central park near the duck pond two men set upon him and inade him disrobe. Horrified, Mr. Preston demurred. Insistent, the men forced him to remove his garments, divided them and put them on, leaving enough of their own tatters to save Mr. Preston the necessity -ot creeping homeward In a barrel. „ ^ Shoves Babe in Windost to Reserve Train Seat York.--Police of the l^ong Island railroad are looking for a young man, seemingly too young to be a father, who reserved his seat in in passenger coach at a platform in Jamaica by thrusting a baby through the window. then sauntered leisurely behind the crowd clamoring for admission by way of the door. r Snake* Fight Beetle* taJNfaster. Pa.--Upon the discovery by Scout Executive Frank A. Greenhawk that pine snakes of New Jersey like Japanese beetles better than any other diet arrangements are under way to Import 200 of the reptilei. Thwart Berlin Shoe Thieoes Berlin.--Berlin held Its first big "shoe fair" recently, but the left shoe only of each pair was displayed as a precaution against theft. Thev attractions wore In women's wane,; (Pr«f4r«< by thi United BUUa Dayartmmt of Asrlcultara.) There Is at. all too prevalent Impression among those who have had little opportunity to observe the full course of marketing of food products that by some magical costless process these products are whisked from the farmers' fields to the fruit stand or. grocery store. Consequently when reports are published in tbe newspapers of great waste of food products in the fields, particularly fruits and vegetables, many consumers want to know why It is they cannot buy at much lower prices. The explanation for these apparently wasteful practices, says the United States Department of Agriculture, is to be found In the costs ot transportation and other marketing costs. The present peach crop in Georgia has provided an excellent example of a waste of fruit at the point of production because of unavoidable economic conditions. Many newspaper articles, some of them containing exaggerated statements of actual conditions, have called attention to the waste, and letters have been written to various government officers, from the President down, asking that something be done about It. One letter from New York city Is as follows: "Please find enclosed clipping from one of our newspapers about a great waste of peaches In the state of Georgia. My wife Insists on having this brought to your attention as she Is paying 20 cents a pound for only 'fair* peaches. If this article is official or statements made even approximately true, I think something could and should be done to save the crops and keep down the cost of li Ing In the cities, dependent on transportation." Conditions in Georgia. An explanation of the conditions which existed In the Georgia peach section this summer in connection with a brief outline of the marketing processes necessary to get the peaches to the New York consumer, Included In a letter from the secretary of agriculture to the New York Inquirer, should clear up a good many questions regarding price relations.* fps on many crops. The1 present season, according to this statement, witnessed the production of the largest.Georgia peach crop In history. In addition, east of the Rocky mountains there was In nearly all the peach-growing regions the largest crop harvested since 1915. In Georgia the setting of peaches was much larger than the trees could have been expected to develop Into desirable market sizes. Early in the season growers were advised by the Department of Agriculture to thin or remove a portion of the fruit from the trees, a practice which is followed each year by some growers to Insure large sizes and better quality. Some of the growers followed the advice this year, but most of them neglected It with the result that the crop contained a large proportion of undersized fruit which could not be marketed at a profit. Some -orchards In which the fruit was not thinned showed as high as 50 per cent of culls or small fruit which experience haa shown the consumer does not want. In a year of abundant production, at a price that will pay for handling. It is obvious that In a season when the crop Is large, these culls must be allowed to rot, for no one will handle them when only loss Is In sight. The cost of packages, packing, transportation 'and handling a bushel of cull peaches Is as much as for the same quantity of standard grade. Since culls are a losing proposition wherever found, says the department. It Is better to remove thein at the point of production, thus saving the cost of marketing, than to place them on the market and have the cost of handling added to the cost of the marketable fruit with which they were packed. Small sizes have formed a large part of the so-called waste In the Georgia peachy orchards. The total crop In that stste for the season was estimated at 18,000 cars, whereas only about 18*000 cars, were finally marketed. Big Loee ot Hilsy Belles. The loss of one variety. Hiley Belles, was especially large. When these peaches came on prices were so low that had the producer delivered his peaches to the packer free of cost the fruit would not have paid the marketing charges. Many cars of early peaches were put OD the market without being thoroughly culled, and because they were unsatisfactory to the trade the market became demoralized. Later varieties, as a result of grading and elimination of poor fruit, sold better. The different cost items which enter Into the expense of marketing peaches show convincingly why It pnys to handle only the best fruit dunhg a season of large production. The approximate cost of a six-hasket (24-quart) peach carrier, together with the cost of packing aijd loading into cars. Is 52 cents. The freight and icing charge on a six-basket carrier from Georgia to New York Is about 70 cents. This is n total of $1.22 delivered In New York. From the net sales price received for the fruit these charges nre deducted and the balance Is received by tbe producer for his labor and fruit. On* August 4 the range of prices on sixbasket carriers of peaches was from $1.75 to $2.50. These prices were to Jobbers of cariots and represent the Initial cost of peaches at the first point In the line of marketing distribution In tbe city. On the date the previously quoted letter was written from New York, July 29, the highest price reported at that city on sales to jobbers of Georgis peaches was $2.75 for a sixweight of the fruit in such a carrier la 87H pounds. If this were sold at 20 cents j>er pound, the retail price mentioned by the writer, the carrier brought a total of $7.50. This represents the total amount paid by the consumer out of which must come the following items: The producer's returns, package cost, packing and loading expense, freight and icing charges, and the wholesaler's gross profit or commitjsion--making a total of $2.75--and the cost, profits and waste of city distribution1 which amounted to $4.75. Were the peaches delivered to piers in New York free of charge anl distributed to the consumer through the present channels of trade and at normal charges and profits only, " the consumer would have had to pay approximately 8S per cent of the price he did pay. Distribution Is Costly. The distribution of fruits and Vegetables in New York city is a costly operation at best and this cost Is greatly increased by the ungraded condition of much of the stock which is delivered to this market In order that buyers may Inspect the fruit. It Is necessary that It be moved to a central point where work may be done as quickly as possible. Hi New York the piers furnish this point and there the cars are centralized and distribution begins. A car of peaches is delivered to a carlot receiver at a pier In New York. The receiver unloads the car on ^he pier and splits It Into units of 5 to 100 carriers, each Jobber buying according to his needs. The jobber has his purchase delivered to trucks which haul It to his place of business In one of the five or six secondary markets. Here the Jobber splits his supply Into units that will meet the ufceds of the retailers. Again the truck la used to deliver the retailer's purchase to his place of business. Here the last splittings of purchases are made and range in size, according to the consumer's desires which may be one peach or one or more baskets. Often there is another truck delivery which fakes the product to the consumer. Each 8tep Adds to Cost. Each step In this distribution Is an* added cost and each handler must make a profit. The cumulative result Is the consumer's price. It has been estimated that the initial moving charge from pier to truck, a distance of 500 yards, la $20.00 per car. From pier to the large distributing points will range from $24.00 to $<>5.00 per car. Each handler must exact a profit, which may be small, but tbe total expense Is large. Peaches are a highly perishable product and the various handlings along the route from producer to consumer entail considerable loss through physical Injury while changes in temperature aggravate these and other defects. This loss is the consumer's loss as the retail price of the merchantable fruit must cover the expenses and profita In all the transactions. These figures and facts which explain rather convincingly the reasons for the so-called waste of fruit at the production end, while the consumer must pay a considerable price, have been prepared by the department after careful Investigation. Similar conditions are to be found la the handling of practically ail perishable food products. Young Queens Essential ~ for Wintering of Bees Last winter, in some sections, heavy winter losses of colonies seemed to make us wonder where we had gone wrong In our beekeeping. Three of the group seem to be favorites. Young queens to send colonies Into winter quarters In good, strong condition are essential. Do not leave the Introduction of young queens until it is too late. Between August 1 and 15 Is a good time to requeen. Latet than that it not always satisfactory, as the queen does not always get started properly till It is too late and the colony tries to winter with nothing but old bees, and it cannot be done. Good stores and plenty of them If a good policy to follow. It Is, as a rule, easy to leave plenty of winter stores and It is a good insurance policy. Bees never consume more than they need and the surplus will remain over for the following year. Good apiary practice insists on fifty pounds of honey per colony each winter. Better be sure ten years out of ten, than sorry one year in ten. One trial of Farm House Ccru --and youll want to use it always. Few other brands can compare with it for cooking or as a beverage. Your grocer can supply youb Test Farm House today. Reid, Murdoch & Co. FmHiiM HJi fldr--1» BIWM rHnliuiiU--N«wTaik COCOA Wofe: prefer Dutch Process ^ Coco*, ask for Monarch. This dwiff cocoa is a true quality product. Um k asa beverage and for all cooking. Not tooth, hat Ballet When a workingnmn of Pressburg recently felC that one of his back teeth had ached too long he went to a dentist for help. What was the dentist's surprise when he hauled out, not a tooth, but a bullet. Then the victim remembered that while In the Austrian army during the World war he had been hit in the Jaw by a spent Russian bullet, which he thought had dropped out after inflicting a slight flesh wound. Thoughtful Boy "Go and see if there are any crojig In that field of corn," said the fanner to the new plowboy. The boy went out and came back with the news that he bad counted fifty-four. "Did you drive them away?" asksf the farmer, "No, sir." replied the boy, "I thougla they were all yours."--Home Circlet Contentment Is wisdom. The secret Tfeast Foam Are your children sturdy? If your child is delicate, irritable, backward in school, look carefully to the food eaten. Have plenty of good home-made bread. It's wholesome and children love its flavor. . ' * v Send for free booklet ; Art of Baking Bread* 'Northwestern Yeast Cot • 1730 North Ashland Ave. Chicago, UL FARM Rcrsfc Scrub uu.w make tt.. uu tdriuers. Feeding high-value feed to low-valve live stock Is like walking as quicksand. • • • "Many words won't fill a bushel," but a few dollars for legume seed will fill the soil with fertility. • • • Get a cover crop started In the orchard as soon as possible. Use what does best on your farm, preferably a legume such as crlmaon clover or vetch, • • • Scatter a few handfuls of millet seed In the litter occasionally.' The hens will dig after the tiny grains for hours and it helps keep them from becoming overfat. • • • When a breed of chickens, or a feed. or a system of culling, or a house goes wrong. It Is well to consider whether the chance to go right haa been given,N or vice versa. To be successful In turkey raising. one must give the most careful consideration to certain fundamental fac» tors. Growing stock must be kept «fT* der tha best possible conditions. T V •' Lying Down to Fly To lie luxuriously on soft cushions and thus pilot your own small air machine is the latest possibility In aerial flight. Tiny air-cars are being designed and are to be tested In flight, in which the narrow body, with wings on either side, accommodates Just one occupant, lying prone. This will enable the tiny engine to drive the machine more swiftly through the. air than would be possible with- the air-resistance set up if a body was provided big enough for the ptlot to assume the ordinary sitting position. Perfect comfort will, It is claimed, be assured by a sofalike reclining frame. On this the pilot, enclosed in his miniature machine, will lie face downward, looking outward through a front window or sideways and downward through other little windows. Adobe Bricks . •VMobe" is a name applied to dried bricks made from nny suitable material which hardens on exposure to the sun. Often such bricks are made of turf and straw. This material can be used in very dry climates only. ' A noble soul has no other merit than to be a noble soul.--Schiller. Continuous Two nights a week, the little bunflft. low at Holly wood and Cahuenga is <!•» serted. Viola Is taking esthetic danc^ Ing lessons--"to reduce my weight," she explained to Frank. He was considerably upset, thenfore, to stroll into the drug store on* night and find VI getting away with her third chocolate sundae. "My goodness, how in the deuce d* you expect to reduce when you teat- - a lot of sweet stufT like that?" "That's just the Idea," explained "If I didn't eat the sweet stuff, W"- t might get tiiin, and If I got thin. I wouldn't have any excuse for taking the dancing lessons, and I enjoy thea so much."--Los Angeles Times. "M .11 Cutlcura Soothes Itching 8catp. On retiring gently rub spots of dandruff and Itching with Cutlcura OinS» ment. Next morning shampoo widi Cutlcura Soap and hot water. Make them your everyday toilet preparations and have a clear skin and aoft, white hands.--Advertisement. If you are not afraid of failure it la very probable you will never .haw io face it A man who will not flee will maka his foes flee. <• •s 0> GlSlpw is the time to DECORATE Use KING WALL FINISH for best results. Make any room look tike I new for less than a dollar* I JO ANY of your rooms fieeif Ueeoritlng? , Now U the time to do it--before cold weathet aetata. Be sure to ask your decorator about King Wali Ftnuli if ?ou want a beautiful job. King Wall Finiah is easy to prepare, just mix It wtth hoc water and apply. Kt'tao easy to handle that even the inexperienced decorator can paint a room without showing laps, spots or n 11 isli It's economical, too. For less than a dollar you can toy enough to decorate an average sized rooca. WriMtodnr for name of dealer ocirat you ud free colac dMt •howini 19 beautiful colon to chooac fruta. THE CHICAGO TTTOTE LEAD & OIL CO, 19th Sc. & &. Vtucia Ave., Qecago, 1*- '•-"4 o v V- 'ii M um Wall Finish