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McHenry Plaindealer (McHenry, IL), 22 Oct 1925, p. 3

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THE MciifeaiiY PLAINDEALER, KeHENBT. MJ..W ~ luncrjflS lira Tale yORAHAfA -BONNBR BEAUTY'S YOUTH In those 'days, than sbp ts now, for Beanty has never b e e n a n d w i l l never be really old. There will always be a newness and a freshness about her. Her loveliness will always strike people as something young and full of lift!. But she was e v e n y o u n g e r then. So yonng that she had ©ply a "Hit- S t r e t c h e d v e r* l d e a I n H«r ArmaT h e r f a i r h e a d , only one little bit of an Idea. The Idea she had was that she was so beautiful tbat nothing else mattered. Nothing else was of any Importance save her beauty. 8he stretched hep arms one morning as she awoke and looked at herself in a glorious mirror that she had. She sighed a happy sigh of satisfaction and said to herself: "I am so beautiful that nothing elsematters." Then she looked out of her window at the golden sunlight and smiled. "Golden Sunlight, yoa. too, belong Is me/* she said. "Later I shall play with you. "Together we will dance and the dance will be the most sparkling dance ever seen. "We will run after each other 1b and out of the shadows. "We will play in the forests and the glow of our beauty and the sunbeami of our playtime will laugh and scamper with our merriment. "I will be with you. Sunlight, In i very short time." , The sunlight gazed brightly to through the open windows, well pleased with the plan. Below her window was a garden, a garden of many gay, sweet-scented flowers. "Wait for me, flowers," she called out of her window. "Later I will come down and Zander among you. As I move about the wind will stir your scent and It shall be wafted far over the garden so that all will say:' M 'Ah, the sweet-scented garden. How lovely It is.* "Walt for me, flowers, and I will be there." She looked up a moment at the blue aky and she threw a kiss far up Into the air. "To you. Blue Sky, I throw that kiss. Walt for me, Blue Sky. "I will come and play with you. For a while^e will play the game of «arth gasinf. "We will sit upon your soft carpet of blue and look down and see all that there is to see on the earth. "We will see the flowers and the forests, the rivers and the mountains and the lakes. "We will see the prairies and the cotton fields, the meadows and the jungles. We will s e e t h e w h o l e world. "When we get tired of looking at everything we will get out the m a g i c b o x o f paints and we will draw streaks of color across everything. "We will make you. Blue Sky, a «ky of rose and p i n k a n d g r a y , and we will blow little fluffy clouds, edged with lavender and purple, and scatter - them about. "Wait for me, Blue Sty. have much to do." So Beauty talked as she awoke In the early morning, and so she lived, mingling with the most beautiful of the old world's belongings. But as yet she had to Jearn that there were other things, too, besides Beauty, oh, yes. Beauty had still other things to learn. But she was w| young; was Beauty. And oh, site was very beautiful I e Most Ignorant People A school teacher asked her class la what part of the world the most ignorant people were to be found. A small boy volunteered quickly. In London, England." The teacher was amazed, and questioned the lad as to where he had obtained such information. "Well," he replied, "the geography says that's where the population Is dense.' v - , * * -. Formalism About -Enter Mode Formalism is about to re-ent^r the models a result of the unprecedented extension of the sports vogue. Every new fashion begins as a heresy and ends in the midst of Its apparent heyday, when it becomes known far and wide as an •"essential."* Glance back, •ays a Paris fashion writer in the New York Herald-Tribune, at the history of the mode as you remember it and notice how invariably tomorrow's •ogue has been ridiculed the day before and principally by those who latere became its most feverish exponents. What would your Victorian mother have said of the corsetless figures and short skirts of this enlightened day?--and don't you shudder when you think of the anguished comments of the pater families. More recently consider the case of the straight line and the flare--the narrow silhouette had become a religion with couturier and milady alike, and It was bruited over the universe as the prime essential of the modern mode, , Its I Lanvin Frock of Scarlet Kasha Which Emphasizes Scallops. freedom, its simplicity, Its youth were destined to make It the basis of every new style--It was the only logical outline for the moderns. If you listened to the orations of Its overenthusiasts. Despite all of which relentless loirlc the straight and narrow line has been succeeded by the flare. Just as Its companlon- in-arms, eternal youth, which might better have been named perennial puerilism, has gracefully surrendered to the charms of post-adolescence. And now a third movement, a result of these preceding two, but more tangible and more significant, is impending. Formalism, not yet Chesterfieldian, but at least heading toward that gracious ideal, is slowly but distinctly replacing informality from the regions of fashion, and the sports mode Is being retired to the limitations of its own field. Sports Clothes. Sports clothes originally were Imposed upon Paris from the outside-- they were only the foster children of the French couture, the result of a demand from London and New Tork. Yet they at|alned the quickest and widest vogue in the history of modern fashions, and the sports spirit quickly sought wider spheres than its own. And found them. At first it reached and conquered the domain of informal daytime clothes, after which formal afternoon frocks, and occasionally the mode du soir succumbed to its irresistible Infection. You may remember Palm Beach and those Riviera villas, Nice, Monte Carlo and Cannes of last winter. The chic demoiselles at these rendezvous wore the identical costume at the afternoon dansant or at dinner as they would wear and did wear at the tennis court. So similar were the styles worn at the different functions, so widespread had the spirit of Informality become that the haute monrie wardrobe boasted a half dozen dresses of a single design, and it mattered little which was worn where. Informality had become an essentia!, and that Is the dangerous age of a vogue-- the moment before the bubble bursts. Last spring, in response to the ceaseless demand for change, which is the ;essence of fashion, the business of <mending the broken barriers of differentiation was started, perhaps uncons^ ously. Maturer styles, more subtle outlines, elaboration In place of simplicity--all these augured a lessening of the sports vogue. And with the crystallizing of these themes at the recent autumn openings, the return to formality at least, and perhaps formalism later, is definitely under way. Lines again are being sharply drawn between the afternoon dansant and the sportdlike morning stroll, and the absolute ornatism of the evening mode precludes even the faintest spirit of the sports mode from the dinner, theater or dance. We have selected Jeanne Lanvin to Illustrate this newest tendency of the mode because that eminent designer never lost her sense of differentiation even In the most rampant moments of the sports vogue. Her anchor was tthe flanious robe de style and it stood out in charming relief in last season's tnode du solr. New Swinging Silhouette. In the Lanvlp versions the flare translates Itself into the new swinging silhouette, aptly called kinetic by the ingenious Lucien Lelong. The beauty of the swinging silhouette is revealed when its wearer is In motion, when the frock or coat swings with all the majestic grace of the lordly late-Vlctorlan. There Is not the accompanying swish which characterized that Vnuch-petticoated lady, but the gracefulness of the moving frock Is easily greater than that of Its prototypes of two decades ago. It doesn't belong In any part of the sports category, and so the flare may be considered one of the most eminent of the differentiators of fall fashions. The hip-length peplum on dresses, the shoulder flare, the unusual use of metal lames, bead and metal embroideries, all of these featured on daytime costumes--emphasize the distinctly formal note. Even the perennial Jumper is matured and sobered by being developed in metal lames and laces. And as a final distinction between this new formality and the Informality of last season, the mannequins wore black stockings. Obviously even a Lanvin cannot make the mode and we merely cite this collection as a straw that shows which way the modal winds are blowing. Resistances will Inevitably develop and the march toward formalism may be slow and often impeded, nevertheless It requires no clairvoyant to sense its coming. |Ta p Wire at Pier; Seiz|e H Hidden Gems on Vessel !•; >•< New York.--Tapping a tele- J* phone wire from a steamship V £< pier, customs agents trapped two R $ members of an* alleged diamond V smuggled diamonds. Jean was h $ known when the two men were j»{ $ arraigned on charges of being $ and Jewelers in this city were s£< Involved In the conspiracy, cus- V toms officials said. v !•! The agents overheard a tete- >J phone conversation In which it VI was alleged Marcelle Jean, bag- $ gage master of the French j»j steamship DeGrasse, talked y with Sol Band, a diamond bro- }•) ker in the Maiden Lane whole- >J< sale jewelery district. In Clean Ground Is Sanitary Measures Have Been Found Valuable. for Care of Swine. ar- >I< phone booth and Band was taken Into custody at the place H ;•{ appointed for a rendezvous with $ the baggage master. A DUEL TO THE DEATH WITH SINGLE RAZOR C " . Former Friends Fight Through Rooming House. New York.--Struggling desperately for possession of a razor, William Walters, twenty-six, and Edwin Castellemes, twenty-five, roommates In a furnished rooming house, No. 245 West Ninety-fifth street, fought a duel, resulting In the death of Walters and the serious wounding of Castellemes. Other roomers were aroused by sounds of a violent quarrel. As they opened the doors they saw Walters, bleeding at the throat, run Into the hall, go down to the second floor and Into the bathroom, locking the door. Then Castellemes jumped on an extension roof back of the bathroom and climbed In the window to resume the battle. A call for police brought Patrolman William Smith of West One Hundredth street station. He forced the bathroom door and found Walters and Castellemes side by side on the floor, bleeding from throat wounds. Doctor Kenny of Knickerbocker hospital pronounced Walters dead and took Castellemes to the hospital in a critical condition. Both had been slashed with one razor, which was found In the room. The two had been good friends and the police were unable to learn the cause of the tragedy. Twice Robbed, He Gives Embezzler New Chance ® Louis.--Although he has twice been victimized by trusted employees, Oustave Koerner's confidence is unshaken. and he will give the latest of his erring employees another chance. H. J. Borgmann, thirty-one years old, cashier and bookkeeper of the Natlon- Gabrielle Chanel's Ideas of Fur Trimming* "Walt for Ms, Flowers." Ws will Hurt When iHuo Lit Elmer took his baby brother upstairs-- a forbidden place to play. As a result, both fell down the stairs. When mother started to reprove Elmer, he pleaded, "Please don't scold, mother. It wasn't so bad coming down --•but, O, gosh! when we lit" The full-skirted silhouette, the rising waistline and the replacement of embroidery by fur are prominent details of the collections which are outlined below. The first described Is that of Gabrielle Chanel. The details of the Chanel collection are unusual, and there are many new points in the outline. The latter shows a comfortable fullness In the skirts, back as well as front, but a liberal Interpretation of the mode permits many things, even the straight line with a straight, slim corsage sometimes arranged in a zouave effect that Is Infinitely becoming and suggests a higher waistline. Coats, whether straight or flared, are trimmed with fur. Many of them have a shaped fur flounce and wide collar and cuffs. Others are fur lined with still another suggestion of fur appearing on the outside. Drecoll has long been justly celebrated for rich, dignified gowns such as are worn by women of unquestioned taste, and the present collection lives up to this reputation in every way. Dignity, restraint and good taste are Its marked characteristics with a distinct novelty in the tight-fitting corsages and strongly flared skirts that are a feature of several models. A Like most hotpses that study closely the requirements of modern existence, Drecoll is showing the jumper dress only for sports and morning wear. He makes it with a short full skirt Into which circular godets are inlet all around. The high collar Is being tentatively launched In this house but it remains to be seen whether women will be prepared to adoptit though It is in full harmony with the actually fitted corsage from which only the bones are lacking to make it an exact counterpart -of the style that prevailed In 1880. Coats are often fitted to the waist, but are sometimes draped round the figure when cut straight. al Refrigerator company, of which Koerner Is head, wrote a confession admitting the embezzlement of *2,500 ony hoUBe or tw® *or th« chickens as The Importance of sanitary conditions In the hog lot for the prevention of disease has been stressed for a number of years. When men first began to talk about sanitation In the hog pen they were laughed at--the idea that cleanliness could be of any value to a hog seemed Incredible to those who were accustomed to seeing old sow search out the filthiest -hole to be found for a sleeping place on a hot summer day. After the United States Department of Agriculture had discovered the life history of the roundworm and had shown how the eggs of this pest hatch In barnyard filth, and how they are picked up by and Infest young pigs, a different attitude has been developed among farmers who have come to clearly understand how the roundworm propagates Itself and how the so-called filth diseases can be as easily avoided as they can be contracted by the pigs if their yards are kept clean. Important to Poultryman. The sanitary measures that have been found valuable for the hog man are now considered of equal importance and value to the poultry man. A large majority of the average farm poultry flocks are suffering from filth diseases the same as our hogs. Coccldlosls Is one of the diseases responsible for heavy chick losses every year. It Is caused by a parasite, known as coccidium, with which old chicken yards Invariably become Infested and which can be avoided only by raising chickens on fresh ground every year. The coccidium parasite Is not kept off the farm through streaks of "good luck," nor does "bad luck" bring It Into the yards. It Is a natural parasite of chickens and wherever the latter are raised In large numbers the former Invariably appears. The only way to hold this, and all other similar pests in check, so far as that may be possible, consists in preventing It from perpetuating Itself. When a chicken yard has been used for a year, plow It up, seed it down to crops for a year or two and raise the chicks on other ground In the meantime. It 1s as Important to provide fresh, clean ground for chickens each year as It la for the pigs. If the common ailments, responsible for nine-tenths of pur chicken troubles, are to be avoided. Use Clean Ground. There Is neither satisfaction nor profit In raising hogs or poultry in lots that have been In use for those purposes for a number of years consecutively. Get out of that habit. Raise all young stock on fresh ground each year. Lay out the land to be used for hog and chicken raising with the Idea of having new ground ready for each season's work. It can be done. You may need a movable col pounds of milk. An even better rule is one pound of grain each day for every pound of butterfat produced during the week by the cow. Feed all the cow will respond to In milk production. When she begins to put on flesh, cut down the grain. However, some cows lose flesh In the early part of their milking period and later In that period regain the lost weight. It will hardly be advisable, therefore, to reduce the grain allowance of such cows until they had regained the loss In weight. When they again freshen the extra feed will be returned In the form of milk. Manure Is Too Valuable for Strawberry Mulch CUfken manure is too valuable to be used as a mulch on strawberry beds In most places In the Middle West Any land good enough to rnlse 50 or 00 bushels of corn does not need It, or at least only In limited quantities. Straight poultry manure could be applied just before the plants were set out. A small amount could be put on the bed early in the spring If the land Is thin. But for general mulching purposes, one would have to apply too much, If It Is to answer the purposes for which mulching material la generally put on. So much plant food would be washed Into the soil where the manure is used that a heavy growth of leaves would be stimulated, and the fruit would be qtiite soft when ripe. The best kind of a mulch Is one of clean wheat straw from which all chaff and weed seeds have been shaken out If this Is not done, the grain and weed seed that went out with the straw may start to grow, quite early In spring, and cause a* lot of extra work in removing It. Bedq are sometimes abandoned because of the heavy growth of wheat and weeds. of the company's funds. Then turning to Koerner, he' pleaded for a chance to "make good every penny." Koerner told the police that although "one of our' employees before cleaned me out of $20,(000, and I didn't prosecute, I don't see why I should make an example of him. I'll give him another chance." Borgmann Is back on the Job. well as some movable bouses for the pigs, but the expense will be light compared with the losses ordinarily lustained when hogs and chickens are raised in lots that have been used for those purposes for many years in •accession. Boy Escapes From Jail in Barrel of Ashes Okmulgee, Okla.--Arthur Good In, seventeen, of Henryetta, held in the county jail here on a grand larceny charge, copied from the movies. He hid in a large ash Quantities of Roughage and Grain to Feed Cows Nearly all cows differ in their capacity to turn feed Into milk. Therefore no Inflexible rules for feeding can be made that will fit all cows. By Increasing the feed of the highest producing cows and carefully consulting the milk sheets on which each cow's dally production Is recorded, the skillful feeder will soon find that some barrel on the top story of the cows respond to the larger allowance county courthouse building, where the with an^inCreased quantity of milk, county prisoners are kept. He was while others fall to show any greater covered with ashes, but remained in production. The following rules will the barrel. Late in the day the bar- serve as indicators for the inexperlrel was placed In a wagon. It was enced feeder, although It Is necessary hauled to the city dump grounds, and to study the capacity and needs of when the barrel was dumped, Goodln each cow: » ' Flowered Collars Flowers of velvet or georgette crepe finish the collars of the new chiffon coats and capes. Silk* and Wool* Are Suitable for Mourning Why They Quarreled "Edna," said a mother to her little three-year-old daughter, "what's the reason you and your little brother Everett can't get along without quarreling?" 5 "I don't know," was the reply, "unless 1 take after you and Everett takes sft^r. papa," if? Disqualified It true that sailors bar® a wlffc In every port?" "Er--I'm sorry, ma'am, but this ain't a pott, ma'am." Forced suddenly to put on mourning for the first time, women often face a rather difficult situation, so far as fashion is concerned, if they are slight in figure and youthful in appearance. Unless it is possible to have frocks designed and, made especially for the individual, iiMs hard to find models that are suitable, correct in their detail and at the same time not too old. Mourning has a tendency to make any woman look older and therefore it Is necessary to be extremely careful in choosing both frocks and suits as well as hats. y Fortunately, the custom of loading a dress with heavy crepe has completely gone out of fashion, although many women, particularly widows, prefer to add a touch of this material. The touch of white which is permisafter the first few weeks does much to obviate the somberness, but unless the bit of white crepe or organdie at neck and wrists is always Immaculate and unwrinkled it is betftataot to me lt. As to materials, both silks and wools If they have a lusterless surface are suitable, and many women find georgette, crepe ronia and crepe elizabeth more becoming than crepe de chine, which unless it is of the best quality is apt to become somewhat rusty in a short time. Dull faille may be used and the reverse side of crepe-back satin Is often chosen, Color in Evening Gowns That brilliant colors are i<> play An important role in winter fashions is evidenced in evening frocks that are striking exponents of the vojeme for a vivid tone between rose and orange designated as geranium petal. Fashioned of velvet in this particularly intense shade, they reveal distinctive touches of gold lace and bjrown tulle. One model with a simple untrimmed bodice and a skirt cut on semicircular lines emphasizes the natural waistline by a chou of « brown tulle with 1 tfag, floating end* ' , - crawled out and made a run acrossthe field, making good hla escape. Starves for 70 Days, Starts Lecture Tour Budapest. -- Another long-distance food abstainer has been found here in the person of Bel a VIcsey, who existed for 70 days without food of any kind and with only a few sips of water every day. He then started on a lecture and propaganda tour with the object of making converts to his sect insane From Radio ffiteux City, Iowa.--Radio claimed an Insanity victim when Mrs. Mamie Bedeine of Correctlonville, Iowa, was sent to the state hospl|al for Insane at Cherokee by Insanity commissioners. Mrs. Bedeine was under the illusion that her enemies were using the radio to prevent her from obtaining employment Giant Hailstones Kill Belgrade. Jugo-Slavia.--Giant hallstones killed two persons and injured sixty others in the town of Starisivath during a cyclone. The wind devastated the plain of Bnat, uprooting trees and cutting off communications. The damage is estimated at many thousands. Let Boy Drown Kansas City, Mo.--Because, stiff boys in swimming had called for hetp Only as a joke, Frank Smith, a fisherman with a houseboat on the Missouri river, failed to respond to the.frenzied, calls of Juna HaroIfT Bent thirteen. The boy was drowned. Under most circumstances the cow should be fed all the roughage that she will eat up clean, adjusting the grain ration to the milk production. Only when the cow tends to become overfat should the quantity of roughage be restricted. A grain mixture should be fed In the proportion of one pound to each three pints or pounds of milk produced dally by the cow, except In the case of a cow producing a flow of 40 Proper Time to Cut Soy Beans for Crop of Hay Soy beans should be cut for hay when the beans begin to harden and the lower leaves turn yellow. Hay that Is cut before this time Is rather too green and Is more difficult to cure; If It Is left much later than this stage, some of the leaves will drop off. They are the most valuable part of the plant, so far as feed Is concerned, snd they should be cured with the rest of the hay. - Soy beans are much harder to cure than clover or timothy hay because of the large amount of green forage per acre and the rather coarse, green, sappy stems. In good curing weather, It usually requires three or four days of curing before the hay ts In proper shape to put into the stack or mow. They may then be picked up out of the windrow with the loader. In case of rain or poor curing weather, it may be necessary to turn the windrows over with a side delivery rake. Especially will this be true where the fteans are very heavy. Solve the Silo Problem in Various Communities Probably the strongest objection to the use of the silo is the labor necessary at filling time. However, records show that it requires practically the same amount of total labor to harvest the entire corn plant In any other manner. It Is simply a case of mobilizing enough labor at one time, Instead of using all fall and part of the winter to do it Many communities solve the problem by working together with their available labor and In some cases hiring a few extra men. Of course the more help one has, the faster the job. In a few days' time the fields are cleared for wheat or rye seeding, and the feed is stored for the winter. The big advantage Is larger feed value obtained from the silage as compared to any other method of harvesting. Rye Pasture for Hogs Rye makes a splendid fall, winter and early spring pasture for hogf of all kinds. Fall pigs that have access to rye pasture during the winter make much better use of other feeds than pigs that do not have access to It Brood sows that have access to rye pasture during the winter farrow stronger and thriftier pigs. Bye should be planted for pasture as early as moisture conditions will permit FEEDING SOY BEANS TO FOWLS GAINS FAyOR AMONG FARMERS Rich in Protein, but Lacking in Minerals. . Blind Man Killed Chl< ago.--Emil Dobbersteln, seventy- o^e years old and blind, was killed when he walked off the back porch of 4ts bome and fell three stories. Soy beans have a place In the pool try ration, according to poultry experts at Purdue university. A study covering a four-year period with approximately 1,000 birds of the White Leghorn and Barred Rock breeds shows that In general the soy beans need a mineral supplement to go with the beans If they are to equal tankage and other animal protein supplements. Tankage carries about 60 per cent of protein and 20 per cent mineral. Soy beans are rich In protein, but carry only about 0 per cent of minerals. The Purdue investigation shows, however, that a mash mixture composed 6f 50 pounds bran, 50 pounds of middlings and 45 pounds of soy bean oil meal with 10 per cent of a mineral mixture composed of 22 pounds acid phospiwte, 24 pounds limestone and 15 pounds of salt will give about the same results as 30 pounds of tankage mixed with the bran and middlings. In the 1923 experiment the birds fed on the soy bean and mineral ration prsduced 137.5 eggs; the taakacfefed birds produced 131.0 eggs and the birds fed on soy beans without minerals produced only 127.2 eggs per bird- The Purdue standard grain ration, composed of 100 pounds corn, 100 pounds wheat and 50 pounds oats, was fed with these mash rations. This experimental work is described in Purdue bulletin No. 293, which can be obtained from the university at Lafayette, Ind. Noxious weeds, like diseases, should be eradicated. • • • Good prices are stimulating wheat production throughout the^ world. • • • The wise farmer will keep his eyes ou the wheat market of the world. • • • Loving your neighbor Isn't so easy If he's the sort who won't co-eperate. • • • How many colts have you seen on farms during the past few years? Indications point to high prices for horses during the next .decade. WRKLEYS Probably one reason for the popularity of WRlGL£yS ii that it lasts so long and returns such great dividends for so small mn outlay. • It keeps teeth clean, breath sweet, appetite keen, digestion good. Fresh and fuU>flavored always in its wax-wrapped package. I In Chicago I breakfast, hmch, dine Madison St. &&£ Travelers and Chicago residents proclaim the outstanding quality of The Brevoort's Restaurants. Highest standards of service and moderation of charge distin» guish all departments of this famous downtown hotel. Convenient to stores, theaters, banks and transportation In the Heart of Downtown Chief* Beginning to Pall She--Is that a popular song he It* singing? He--Is was before he began lag It DEMAND "BAYER" ASPmitf Aspirin Marked With "Bayer Cres#* Has Been Proved Safe by Millions. . Warning! Unless yon see the nams "Bayer" on package or on tablets vdB are not getting the genuine Bayer Aspirin proved safe by millions and pre8crit*pd "by physicians for 25 yearsi Say "Bayer" when you buy Aspirin. Imitations may prove dangerous.--A dr. Inexplicable "Depont is getting married 1" Tm glad!" "Why? He never harmed youP i-a i QUALITY fir JO years Ou Monarch Quality Food* arc not told W chain store*. Murdoch Si Co* Chicago, U, S, A T«| CHAMPION For more than 13 years standard equipment on Ford Cars, Trucks and Fordson Tractors --ample proof of its great dependability. Blue Box for all other cars, 75 cents. The mat' uine hare double* ribbed sillimamitet Champion Spark Flog Co. Toledo, Ohio JLiL

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