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mm MeHSmST, ILL« ~Er ThreaiEns American Bison 'tT^:- "< =&f4.- ':^* - / .jM^- :% *.&.&¥& ^ ^ c&rADiArr jsuFfA^o pj&vr i *y„ ^-"o f^t :^i vl -: - t' iiiz ^ - * * * c ,v < ^ ? ;y*r, S Are in The passion for slenderness will not down, and every one of the accepted silhouettes of the season pays homage to the willowy line, observes a Paris ' 'fashion correspondent In the New York Herald-Tribune. There were many predictions last summer to the effect that pulchritude was about to return to the haunts of the mode, that the marked waistline and the full and flaring silhouettes were paving the way for the revival df a sort of modified Amazon, statuesque to the point of being plump. When the Paris couture first blared its fall message to a palpitant world, these prophecies seemed In a fair way of being realized. The predominance of the flare and molded bodice, the princess silhouette du soir, the defined and higher waistline all seemed Inclined to lift the ban against the long < harassed embonpoint and the outlook was dark indeed for the daily dozen. The chic Parislenne, ho\\ever, was otherwise inclined. She accepted the flare, she gave a hearty welcome to the princess silhouette and the waistline, but In every instance with the res- By J6HN DICKINSON 8HERMAN HE buffalo Is Saved. Bison AraelS lcanus is no longer in danger of extinction. Tweuty-flve years ago this old-time "Monarch of the Plains" was well on his way to join the dodo and the great auk. and the passenger pigeon. But that's all changed. Buffalo are numbered by the thousands. Buffalo ranches are now being established as commercial propositions. £ome day before long we may see choice bits of t>uffalo hump on the market. It is even possible that the buffalo robe of our fathers may come toack. In the maantlme the buffalo herds owned t>y the United States and by Canada are increasing so rapidly that both governments are a bit grazzled to know what to do with the surplus. Two generations ago in the United States there was room on the Great Plains for both the countless thousands of buffalo and for the Indians who lived off the buffalo. Now the Great Plains have been transformed into ranches and farms, reclamation projects and oil fields, towns •and cities. The Indian has changed breech-clout tor overalls. He is a farmer, cattleman, oil mag-* nate. Instead of whooping across country on a bareback "paint horse" he now rides in a closed •car and toots his horn. So the .buffalo can't |0 back to the Great 'Plains. Uncle Sam has three national park herds: one In Wind River and two In Yellowstone. The Yellowstone "wild herd" ranges the almost unexplored Mirror plateau region between the Grand «anyon of the Yellowstone and the crest of the Absoroka mountains. To get a reliable count is almost impossible. The herd is certainly not decreasing in size. The "tame herd" is fed hay in winter; that's about all the difference between '"wild" and "tame." It now numbers nearly 800. The 1924 Increase was 120 calves, about 50-50 «8 to sex. Last fall Uncle Sam gave away 86 bulls. This fall he would be glad to give away 100, the recipient to pay the cost of catching and transg> ortlng the big beast The cost of capturing, crating and transporting a bull from the "tame herd" range of Gardin.er, Mont., is about $80. In* 1904 the Canadian government paid an American rancher $250 each for 716 head. So, you see, the price of buffalo has gone down. Canada's buffalo problem is more pressing and on the face of things more easily solved. It has more buffalo, but It also has plenty of room for the surplus. When Canada bought the herd of Michael Pablo in the Flathead Indian^ reservation In Montdtaa 20 years ago It created for it the Buffalo park at Walnwright, Alberta, the world's largest inclosed preserve--about 160 square miles. The original herd of 716 has now increased to more than 11,000 and has outgrown its quarters. 8o Canada purposes during the next four years to transfer about 10,000 young animals to the Far Worth. The Canadian government, a few years before the creation of the Walnwright parte, established a preserve in the Far North for Its famous •"wood buffalo, the only known herd in the world." Fort Smith, on the dividing line between Alberta and the Northwest territories, is headquarters; the preserve comprises 60,000 square miles In a triangle between the Peace, Slave and Hay rivers, with Lake Athabasca on the south and Great Slave lake on the north. The wood buffalo herd is now believed to number about 2,000. Much has been written about this wood buffalo herd. And much of it appears to be sheer nonsense. Even now zoologists are contending that the wood buffalo is an European buffalo whose ancestors migrated across while the continents were still joined. They hold that the interbreeding of 10,000 Great Plains buffalo with 2,000 wood buffalo will result in the extinction of the latter --"a scientific crime." A much more credible view Is that the wood buffalo is nothing more or less than the Great Plains buffalo, slightly changed by existence in the North. The wood buffalo Is slightly darken and a little larger and heavier; that appears to be the only difference. You see, the Great Plains buffalo originally ranged clear to the Arctic circle. A large herd was cut In two by the building of the Canadian railways. The south half was exterminated. The north half had been reduced to about 1,000 when the Fort Smith reservation was created. Since they Lt bas .increase^ abept 100 per cent ' mZilAZrSiBSTrAl^; '33UFJF5AIX>!' The Canadian government, notwithstanding the threatened danger of the "scientific crime," has already begun the transfer of buffalo from Walnwright to Fort Smith--a long trip of more than 600 miles, about fifty-fifty land and water. The first shipment was an exciting affair. Two hundred young animals were cut out from the big herd and were driven by mounted men by means of corral and chute into seven special cars. The railroad took the cars by way of Edmonton to Waterways on the Clearwater river, a tributary of the Athabasca--a journey of about 350 miles. At Waterways the buffalo, in good condition, were transferred to huge scows, especially fitted up for the purpose., Steamers then took them about 250 miles, by way of the Athabasca river, Lake Athabasca and Slave river. The unique cargo arrived at I<a Butte in good condition. The gangways were let down, the gates were opened and the buffalo made a mighty rush for the shore. In no time at all the last of the 200 was disappearing in this woods beyond the grass meadows. Now, here is a very queer thing--If it is true. A report has come down from the North that some of these 200 buffalo have made their way back to the big herd at Walnwright. Cats and dog$ as every one knows, will travel long distances to get "back home." An occasional milch cow will travel* fifteen or twenty miles. The trained "returp horse" of mining districts of the Rockies was an institution of a generation ago. But this is a new story of buffalo only slightly removed from their ' natural wlklness. Quite a Journey from Fort Smith to Walnwright! Perhaps Canada will have to run a few thousand miles of buffalo-proof fence. When the American people began their march across the continent there were millions upon millions of buffalo all the way from Oregon to the Alleghenies. They were in the Carollnas and Vir- - ginla; in Kentucky and Tennessee, and north to the Great Lakes. They were In Canada clear up to Great Slave lake. They were In northern Mexico. By 1800 they had disappeared east of the Mississippi. In.1850 they were numerous only on the Great Plains. How many were there on the Great Plalnst Guess for yourself. Wagon trains had them In sight for many successive d%ya The first railroad trains were frequently stopped fcfc- hours. Steamboats on the upper Mibjouri were stopped by swimming herds. The buffalo were nomadic, wandering In search of pasturage. They also had certain migratory movements caused by regional or seasonal changes in forage or weather. The vast herds were mads up of coherent bands which marched in files-- hence the "buffalo trails." Fremont describes "he "great highways, continuous for hundreds of miles, always several Inches, and sometimes several feet In depth, which the buffalo have made In crossing from one river to another, or In traversing the mountain ranges." The buffalo swam rivers and climbed mountains^ but ordinarily took the easiest way, ^s the guides and early railroad engineers quickly discovered. Each band in the herd had its bulls, which formed a defensive circle around the cows and calves in time of danger--whether from blizzard or from wolves. Only a full-grown grizzly could best a Xull-grown bull--and the grizzly seldom tried. Nature apparently undertook to prevent an overplus of buffalo by making the huge animals easily subject to panic; whole herds have run over a precipice or into a bog. The Plains Indian, himself a nomad within tribal boundaries, lived on the buffalo. But he killed only what he needed; It Is doubtful If he even kept down the natural Increase of the herds. The white man at first killed for food only. But he soon became wanton, killing a buffalo for the sake of the tongue or for a slice of the hump. Presently he saw In the hide en article of commerce and set the Indians to taking them to the traders. George Frederick Ruxton, who had been a British army officer, traveled extensively in the American Southwest in the early forties and wrote in his book, "Adventures in Mexico and the Rocky Mountains," this paragraph (in 184fi): Notwithstanding: the great and wanton destruction of the buffalo, man? years must elapse before this lordly animal becomes extinct. In spite of their numerous enemies, they still exist In countless number*, and could any steps be taken to protect them, as is done In respect of other fame, they would ever remain the life and ornament of the boundless pralrttes, and afford ample and neverfalling provision to the travelers over these otherwise desert plains. Some ld^a of the prodigious •laughter of these animals may be formed by mentioning the fact that upward of 100,000 buffalo robes find 'their way Into the United States and Canada. Within ten years an army of white hunters was snaking a business of following the herds and Slaughtering them for their hides. In 1871 a St Louis firm bought 250,000. In Cheyenne in 1872 a Union Pacific shed, 175 by 60 feet and 30 feet high, was so full of hides that the walis bulged. Fort Benton sent 80.000 hides to market In 1876. More than 2,000,000 hides were marketed 1865- 1875--at an average price of one dollar a hide! "Buffalo Bill" Cody got his sobriquet by killing 4,300 buffalo in 18 months for the feeding of laborers building the Union Pacific. By the later sixties the buffalo had been divided Into north and south herds by the transcontinental railroad and the end was in sight. The last free herd was captured In* 1888 In the Texas "Panhandle." By 1900 there were no free buffalo except the wild herd in Yellowstone National park and the wood buffalo of northern Canada. The old print representing white hunters killing buffalo gives an Incorrect Idea of the hunt. The buffalo was speedy enough to rival a good horse. ; The hunter, In the early days, used to get alongside and fire his rifle from the saddle, never from the shoulder. He loaded on the run by taking < loose powder from a pocket, pouring It Into the muzzle of his rifle, taking a bullet from.his mouth and dropping it Into the muzzle. The saliva would hold the bullet on the powder long enough for him to fire. He never dismounted, except to finish off a wounded animal. Buffalo Bill and the professional hide-hunters slaughtered in this way: The buffalo does not see „ well, but has a very keen smell. So the hunter crept up on the herd to leeward to easy range of a heavy Sharp's rifle, with a telescope sight. There he lay and picked off his animals at his leisure. The buffalo, terrified and bewildered by the sight and smell of>bIood, huddled together and did not run. When the hunter had killed to the capacity of his skinning outfit he called it a day and quit. ; The buffalo, notwithstanding its size, was not a hard animal to kill, provided the hunter was experienced and knew where fo place his bullet. But the first attempts of a greenhorn, were almost Invariably unsuccessful. Says Ruxton; No animal requires so much killing as a buffalo. Unless shot through the lungs or spine, they Invariably escape; and even when thus mortally wounded, or even struck through the very heart, they will frequently run a considerable distance^,before falling to the ground ... I once shot a bull, the ball passing directly through the very center of the heart and tearing a hole sufficiently large enough to insert the finger, which ran upwards of half a mile before It fell. . . . The head of the buffalo bull Is so thickly covered with coarse matted hair that a ball fired at half a dozen paces will not penetrate the skull through the shaggy frontlock. . . . It is a most painful sight to witness the dying struggles of the huge beast. The buffalo Invariably evinces the greatest repugnance to lie down when mortally wounded, apparently conscious that when once touching mother earth there Is no hope for him. A bull, shot through the heart or lungs, with blood streaming from his mouth, and protruding tongue, his eyes rolling, bloodshot and glased with death, braces himself on his legs, swaying from side to side, stamps impatiently at his growing weakness, or lifts his rugged and matted head and helplessly bellows out his conscious impotence. . . . Gouts of purple blood spurt from his mouth and nostril^ and gradually the failing limbs refuse longer to support the ponderous carcass; more heavily rolls the body from aide to side, until suddenly for a brief Instant it becomes rigid and still; a convulsive tremor seises It and with a low sobbing gasp the huge animal falls over on his side, the llmbB extended stark and Stiff, and the mountain of flesh without life or H^otlon. •" Appetites were vigorous in the old days on the Ok-eat Plains and the plainsmen found the buffajo good eating, as all writers pf that day bear wit- The tongue and hump were generally regarded as the tidbits. And there is abundant testimony that Indian. European and American preferred^ "buffler ribs" to the dioj^gjgt ,.b|tf! gl a gpe$*lly fattened "beef critter.* * ' V * » Brown Crepe de Chine and Threaded Lace in Gold. ervatlon that her hard-earned slenderness was to remain the basis oAthe new styles. \ Yet if the general effect of the outline has remained slender, the silhouette has otherwise undergone some vital changes, significant enough to inspire prophecies of a new fashion cycle. The mobile silhouette, which has also been called kinetic, swinging and floating has generally succeeded the immobile, by contrast, straiglitline. This new outline, which becomes a lissome, graceful fantasy when its wearer is in motion, has got to incorporate some species of flare in its makeup. It can be at the front, the sides or the back, It can concentrate below the knees or it may be inaugurated at the waistline and even as high as the shoulders, but somewhere It must be the moving order of autumn, 1925. Flare Runs Clockwise. It is Interesting to note the various manners in which the leading Paris designers arrive at the new outline. Captain Molyneux, for instance, using High Neckline Is Feature of the Season The high neckline, offered originally with some show of virtue by the Paris couture, is one of the interesting phenomena of the current season. It is not the sole smart neckline of the autumn models, as the bateau and V lines have also made frequent appearances, but in popularity it easily leads all the rest. The principal reason for the high neckline, according to its sponsors and wearers, is to preserve the symphony of the silhouette. ^£hat with short skirts and the hemline flare, a low neck would create a silhouette grotesquely short and totally unfitted for any but the most willowy types. They point It out, too, as a symptom of the rising tide of fashion--high hemline, higher waistline and the choker neck. Both are logical,enough reasons. We have a suspicion, however, that milady's attraction for the new neckline has a more psychological basis. Here Is a mode which is a long, IndiS' creet step ahead of its pre-war predecessors .And a notable percentage of the ladles who exploit it were once steeped In the inhibitions of a decade and more ago. Along comes the high neckline, which would have been modest even in those prim days--and what more natural than that milady should succumb to the habit and training of her earlier days. "Call me Immodest," she tells the ghost of her Victorian self --"look at this choker neck and forever hold your peace." It's the philosophy of the ostrich who buries his head in the sand and thinks thereby that he is entirely hidden, but It is thoroughly sufficient unto this day. New Shawls Are Brocaded Truly gorgeous are the new shawls of metal brocade. A most beautiful one seen recently was of blue and gold brocade with an extremely long fringe of blue silk. Wide Tucks at Hem The afternoon or evening coat of georgette crepe is often finished with wide tucks Instead of fur at the bottom. Nice Things for < Christmas (Sffii j-3 Among Favorite Gift* either the flare or circular cut on his robes du soir, concentrates fullness below the knees. Jean Patou, on the other hand, inaugurates the distended effect above the knees. Lucien Leiong, apostle of the kinetic silhouette, employs a tucked flounce which has its origin above the kne^s and which flares widely and suddenly. The molded bodice is Paul Poiret's contribution, and its exceptionally high waistline overshadows the moderate skirt flpre. And there is the cape-back flaring from slioulder or hips--from (the former In this instance--characteristically exemplified in Chanel model of black mousseline de sole. Even the old order Is represented In the straight-line street dresses of Patou and Molyneux. If you will add to these themes the back flare, the bolero effect, the bustle drape, the jacket ensemble find the princess outline, you will have a fairly cowplete catalogue of the broadening methods of the new silhouettes. Which of these various flares you select for your own is not of great consequence. It Is important to remember, though, that the flare Increases in width and significance as the day grows older. The informal morning frock may be quite straight, the street dress should preferably flare In a moderate manner, formal afternoon clothes must always broaden distinctly and without compromise while the evening mode should climax Its new elaboration by the widest of possible flares. The flare, in a word, runs clockwise. Welcome Waistline. There was a lot of early-season skepticism concerning the clearly marked waistline, and even now that prodigal stranger is a little uncertain of his welcome. But any one who has seen the attractive models which stress the waistline will doubt no more. In our own opinion it is the most esthetic theme In the new fall and winter mode. On the young It creates an Impression of enervating youth, doubly welcome after these banal years of sophisticated tubularity, while for the matron It substitutes a graceful natural line for the imposed pencil silhouette. The waistline has threatened to return so often that it sounds like another cry of wolf to predict It again. This time, however, the wolf Is really at the door--the distinctly defined waistline has its place in every chic wardrobe of autumn and winter, and its return means that the fiat-chested woman Is no more as far as the Paris mode Is concerned. Apart from the Blmple two-piece Jumper suit, which still permits the straight line, the figure Is clearly defined in all of the latest models. This is one of the logical developments of the higher waistline. As the waistline creeps up It arrives at a point where the natural body curves In, and so the corsage above It must mold the figure id-order to look In keeping. Several of the most famous houses 'are using the waistline that is fairly low on the hips at the back and slopes up In front to finish in the center with a Jeweled motif or buckle. With this line the skirt below usually has a full flare at the front and sides. This silhouette is particularly approved by Lucien Leiong, who fits In with his conception of the kinetic or moving outline. The front and side flares are used with Impartiality by this house and several others, while still others favor all-round godets or a group of plaits or other kind of fullness at the back to give the new back flare that forms the bird-like silhouette sponsored by Premet, Martial et Armand and some of the more conservative houses. Tainted metal shoe trees are miiong the old favorites in gifts that appear In new guise thia year. Cn a black pair grotesque faces promise smiling and faithful service to a master, and on a blue pair pretty pink bloeaous bespeak a mistress' approval. Lb, the Poor Indian Great will be Hie elation of the small boy who wakes up on Christmas morn* Ing to find himself in possession of aa Indian camp, with trees, tepees, mea and squaws on a green-covered board. These are all made of crepe paper and wire, which Is wound with strips of the paper to fashion the figures. Small canoes may be made of or real birch bark. Clever Sewinsr Bag A clever work bag that every VOMS will like has made Its appearance among novelties for Christmas. II may be used as a sewing bag or to carry one's knitting, or other pickup work, to the club or elsewhere. Notfe- Ing more unusual than an old straw bat crown, some figured silk and lamp shade or bead fringe Is needed to make It. Scroll Saw Toys \ • » Clasp or Ornament Is Placed at Side of Shoe Secret of the Past Revealed by Dream Hnrdlv * week passes without some case being reported of a dream that has been fulfilled, says an exchange. Probably the most remarkable dream ever known is that recorded by a Professor Hilbrecht, who for weeks had been endeavoring to decipher two small pieces of agate which were supposed to belong to the finger rings of some fang dead Babylonian. His researches bad tats la vain, until one night he dreamed that a Babylonian priest came to him and led him to the treasure chamber of a Babylonian temple. There the priest addressed him: "The two fragments which you have are not finger rings, and their history is as follows: King Kurigalzu (circa 1300 B. C.) once sent to the temple of Bel, among other articles of agate and lapis lazuli, an Inscribed votive cylinder of agate. Then we priests suddenly received the command to make for the god Ninith a pair of earrings of agate. We were in great dismay, since there was no agate at hand for the raw material. There was nothing for us to do but cut the votive cylinder Into three parts, thus making three rings, each of which contained a portion of the original inscription. The first two rings served as earrings for the statue of the god and the two fragments which you have are portions of them. If you will put the two together you will have cOnfirmaj^ on Qf my work.'* In the morning Professor Hilbrecht examined the fragments again, and as far as it was possible to verify it every detail of his dream proved to be true. He was able to decipher the most of an inscription which he amplified to read: "To the god NInib, eon of Bel, his Lord, has Kurigaizu, pontifex of Bel, presented this." Wise is, the .individual who knows that a thing is going to be unpopular before the flat-footed public Jumps all over It. With the latest footwear are shown some strapped models on which clasp or ornament is placed at one side of the shoe. This is a dainty mode of trimming and a welcome variation of the regular front buckle. These new button-shaped orniments are of cut steel, jet. rhlnestones, metal or fancy leather, and they are used impartially on black shoes, dull kid or patent leather, on the light-colored kids and lizard and snake skins, on suede or fabric shoes, for evening wear. A novelty among the regular shoe buckles is made of brown leather set in a rim o High Shoes Again High shoes for women, after having been in banishment for 11 years, again will be in fashion on the streets of London this winter. The shoes will not be the plain black-anditan ones of years ago, but will be of highly-colored leathers and snake and crocodile skins. Jeweled and other fancy heels will add a piquant touch to them. dull gold, and is so shaped as to servs as a clasp through which a ribbon or leather strap may be drawn. Illuminated leather Is used in many of the latest styles in shoe buckles, and a touch of silver or gold is given to shoes of many types for more elaborate dress. Frocks Have High Necks Junior frocks are in the ascendant for fall and most of the jumpers are being made with high collars which button close about the throat either ^t one or both sides. The buttons, .usually of metal, themselves form a trimming for the frocks. The pockets in the jumper are placed well to front and low. t t Plaid Co^ts in Autumn Colors Very beautiful are coats of plaid ^ool or ^velveteen in exquisite color combinations of blue and red, and green,/ navy and yellow, and two shade* of gray or brown combined with *oft fluffy furs. All kinds of figures--animals Sr children, cut from printed crepe paper, make captivating toys when pasted to thin board and sawed out with a scroll saw. Pretty Phone Sere-- Little julotnmtius i. t.imisHii for the home, especially I? mad# hy the donor, are the gifts" 1wu«e-lovers appreciate most. Here Is a tele^&uae screen which may be made of silk el of fine crepe paper, and narrow geM braid, over a cardboard rounriartaa. It Is made of rose colored crej*» paper, plaited over the center panel *s4 adorned with cut-out paper Bower*. 'M. t-feiiiifai.