- • ?.**SSJ8 • " ?, ; • „ . , . «Y- ' •••' -ff - ,,,• _ v _< V -• „ „ „ • r.?f« THE '•£, ' • . • «'«"> -••-• • »* *•'-**»•' -"«• '*"|ll4,*^fc- •«^-*'*.-i*»i*-1-^i»^-.-»'-»^ '-i*!^: <'kx.-yM^ik.>«V >«••• Hlhl,ra»» • ~y.;'t^*r* • .i+>.-:**i • ir**^ £S»'-. *L--- ?v i' ,-*£ f •***%' -; kv*1' Sese^® By ROBERT STEAD - * CHAPTER XII1"1 ContindMl '.;, -11-* 2**M®rry OhriitmHl" he cried. "The J^errlest ever--ever p* He hdd out both arms, and we all shook hands at SBce, and I suspect that the brideelect pressed a cbsste kiss upon his cheek. Bat Jack, as lawful owner, could afford to be generous. Jean *°k no such liberty. That would t*ve been different The Inside of Spoofs shack was al- 'likys an example of orderly overcrowding. It was full of useless fursltore, inappropriate clothing, firearms, saddles and bridles, cartridge belts, smoker's equipment, tobacco tins, photographs, magazines, and an endless assortment of miscellaneous knicknacks, all carefully placed and tended. Even when Spoof occupied It •lone it was something of a mystery where he found space for himself In the midst of his possessions. But now lean and Marjorle and Jack and I Were crowded In as well, only to find *® number of others already there. - ; Our eyes had not yet become a ecustimed to the semi-twilight of the interior when a familiar voice saluted as. "Merry Christmas, ev'rybody," It Mid. "Didnt I warn you'se what 'ud iJ^PPenr / It was Jak*. He was sitting Tperched like a toad on the wood-box where he could expectorate with convenience into the ashpan of the stove. We dragged him into the center of the floor and in the melee that followed Jake lost his footing and at least three ,4f us were precipitated with him. "Oh, save my husband, save my fttiBband!" cried Bella Donna, in mock •)arm, while Spoof gravely remarked ttat perhaps the cogitation nut had come loose. *1 am the minister," said s straight, dean-looking young man, when the uproar over Jake had subsided. "My Same Is Locke. This Is our good friend Reddy; pardon me, by the way, Beddy, what--what is your real name? 1 should know it for Introduction purposes." "I left It down East," said the Individual addressed as Reddy, a slight, boyish-looking figure with a shock of carroty hair. "Well, Reddy It is, then," said the Minister, and we shook hands all •round. "Reddy is an important personage in our town," Mr. Locke cop tinned. "In a sense he is my chief competitor. He runs the village pool loom, and, I am afraid, draws logger crowds than I do Wednesday Bights, and perhaps on Sundays, too-- %ehind the blinds." ; "Not guilty," pleaded Reddy. 'There •re no blinds on the shop." "I believe," said the minister, gen- . irously, "that Reddy's competition is Of a very honorable kind, and his .presence here today is proof of kis bigness of heart As it was Sot convenient for. his customers to «ome to him, he has come to his customers. He brings with him, I believe, a small tray of plain gold bands •nd a blank marriage license or two. 1 prevailed upon him to bring two or three extra licenses; it Is always well to be prepared for emergencies." . . . I looked at Spoof and found him looking at me, and then I looked at> jean and found her looking at the •floor, and a faint flush of color slowly Spread about her face. The flat reception of the minister's pleasantry was relieved by Jake, who declared "in favor of a total embargo on the * ~ marriage license business. "At least It should take as long to get married as to prove up on a homestead," Jake remarked, "an' most fel- --lows have a lucid Interval once in three years." When the formalities about the license were completed the minister had Jack and Marjorle stand together in the center of the shack, and spoke the few simple words that made them man and wife under the law. We paid them the usual hackneyed compll jnents, and then stood around looking rather sheepish and wondering what to do next, until Reddy produced a box of chocolates and presented it to the bride. It was a simple thing, but In some way' It loosed our tongues, and presently we were all laughing and ishlng each other Merry Christmas. By this time the sun bad set on the Short December day, and night was idrawlng her gray curtains across the plains. 1 paid for the license on Jack's behalf and gave the change to' the minister, and we were about to thank Spoof and say good-by to the little company when they announced in concert that they were coming over to Fourteen. In vain we protested that 'the roads were bad, that the night was 'settling down, that the sky looked like a storm. All these perfectly good reasons why they should stay at home were converted Into arguments why they should come. Spoof, as host yoked up the oxen snd insisted that , be would drive the bridal party; our jumper would carry Ave as well as four. "It was built for two," be argued, "se ens more will make no difference." fluffing that there was nothing else for it we accepted the inevitable and crowded in. When we were well under way oar attention was suddenly arrested by a commotion in the rear. It was Jske with the "flying ants," and with Bella Donna and the minister and Reddy in his cutter. He was : standing up, waving the loose ends of the reins about his head, and imprecating. his horses Into a gallop. In a monent he was upon as. "Oat e' the way, yon old married people," he shouted. °*I don't blame you fer goln' slow, but don' hold up the percesslon," Bat Spoof hsfne intention that the In their movements. "We're making nearly four knots an hour," he shouted. "That's nothing," the minister shouted back. "I made a knot in less than ten minutes." But for all of Spoofs urging our oxen plodded stolidly along the wintry trail, now barely distinguishable from the gray whiteness of the plains. Flakes of snow were falling, and on every side the pall of sight surrounded us, drawing Its circle closer and closer* The trail, was firm, but the surrounding snow was loose and deep, and to pass us Jake would have to plunge his horses through it at considerable risk of upsetting his cutter. The old land guide, however, hesitated not a moment for such a consideration as that. Swinging his horses from the trail he cut out at them with his whip, and they rushed by us, throwing a snowy spray like a torpedo boat passing a liner. But as it is so often the occasion that makes the man, so now was it the occasion that proved Spoof's resourcefulness. Climbing over the dashboard of the Jumper he ran along the tongue and threw himself upon Buck's ample back, which Immediately began to heave and gyrate with an entirely new motion. Whether it was a protest against the liberty which Spoof had taken, or whether It was that the legs about his sides brought back memories of youthful days when some bare-legged urchin on a Manitoba farm rode him In wild triumph through pasture field of the parental herd, matters not; the fact is that Buck presently broke Into a most unprecedented gallop, and his mate, wllly- nllly, followed suit. They were just In time to prevent Jake's party getting on the trail ahead of us, and in great glee we careered by them. "Forced draught P shouted Spoof. Fourteen knots!" But our triumph was short lived. Unaccustomed to such speed, the oxen presently began to wobble In their course and suddenly floundered off the trail. Hard a-port, hard a-portl" Spoof shouted. But he was too late, or his directions were misunderstood. Over went the Jumper, flinging its freshly married and other contents Into the snow. The speed of the oxen wrenched the tongue from the wreck, and they continued homeward In greater haste than before. Spoof jumped free and barely escaped a defiant flourish of Buck's heels as they flipped by blm. Ruefully he gazed upon the wreckage. I told the bally bullocks to swing hard a-port" he explained, "and instead of that they slithered off to starboard." At last the shack on Fourteen came into view, and, to our great surprise, a light shone from the window. When we came up close we saw a number of jumpers and bobsleighs about and the tracks of many feet in the snow. The scene inside was an animated and amazing one. In the principal room a table had been built and now groaned beneath a load such as I had not thought the country-side could supply. It was covered with snowy linen, and an assortment of chinaware of several varieties of pattern threw back the yellow glint of two great oil lamps, one of which I recognized a having recently decorated a shelf a corner of Spoofs shack on section Two. I had just time to catch a glimpse of a frosted wedding cske In the center of the table and a steaming turkey at one end when Jean brought me out of my trance. Isn't it wonderful, Frank--wonderful I--to think of It and all of them so poor! Why, even, there's Mr Sneezlt!" It was true. The whole community was present They had swarmed to our premises in our absence, bringing the necessaries of the wedding dinner with them, and now they were lined up around the walls, guilty-faced but delighted. 1 said the whole community was present, but I was wrong. Mrs. Alton and the little boy, Jerry, were not there. I mentioned their absence to Spoof when I bad an opportunity. "They must not have known about It" was his explanation. But Spoof had evidently been at pains to make sure that all the others in the district should know. Why had he omitted Mrs. Alton? It was one more tangle in the puzzle of Spoofs peculiar at tltude toward the widow on Eighteen. When we were settled Mr. Locke arose and asked a blessing. The serious words sobered us for s minute, but it was only a minute. The stimu lus of turkey with cranberry sauce and scalloped potatoes and boiled turnips and creamed carrots would have stirred to gayety hearts much heavier than ours, and it soon developed Into a noisy and frolicsome meal. The turkey was an enormous bird; the attack of all our hungry party left the skeleton not entirely stripped. I remember that one of the little' Hansens, venturing up like Oliver Twist with a demand for more, was soundly rapped on his yellow head by a drumstick in the heavy hand of Ole, but the children as a whole were well behaved, allowing for the example set them by their elders. Then we had plum pudding and sauce and apple pie and cheese, and nuts and candy for everybody. Jean and I mentally rlcochetted between amazement at the generosity of the meal and speculation as to whence it had come. No one ever told us the secret but we did learn that Spoof had a fat check trom England Just before Christmas. an<l that Mrs. Burke's cooking of turkey and apple pie was th« talk of Humboldt county In Iowa, and that Mrs. Brown positively refused first to anyone when it came to After the meal the table was knocked to pieces and carried out so that there might be more room, and as the bridal couple stood about wondering what was to happen next they i suddenly found themselves the objects of s number of presentations. Mrs. Brown made hers first; six wonderful pieces of Limoges china, hand-painted by the squire's daughter herself, and presented to Mrs. B. on her departure for Canada. "Our present Is outside, and I'm a-goin' to bring it in," said Burke, putting on his cap and coat "Oh, I wouldn't bring It In. Tom," his wife suggested. "Let tbeso see It out there." < * But Burke was bound td 46 it in style. "In It comes," he lnsis|ed, snd plunged Into the night. In S few minutes he returned with a heavy sack on his back, which he set in the middle of the floor. Again and again he made the trip until five sacks were In the pile. Ten bushels of seed wheat," ha exclaimed proudly, "and may every kernel yield a hundredfold!" "Weel, Ah'm thinkln* AhU be next," remarked the placid Andy Smith, tapping his clay pipe and returning It to his pocket From somewhere he produced s kit of steel-worker's tools; wonderful pieces of British workmanship, they were. I believe Jack still carries some of them in the back seat of his automobile. No as much as Ah could o' wlsht," said Andy, modestly, "but richt guid in the makln', and they'll come gey handy when you buy that threshing mill for the neighborhood." Just then we observed the color mantling to the tawny hair of Ole Hansen. Ay tank by Ylmmlny Ay mak myself maybe a yoke (Joke)," the tall Swede confessed. "Ay say to Olga, By dam, Olga, what yon tank, Ay tak a load o' hay T* She say, 'Ole, you get more fool all the time. Hay for marriaging! What you tank dey are, oxes?' Den Ay say, 'Well, den, w'at else?' an' she say, 'Dere ain't nodding else,' an' den Ay say 'Dah hay gets it', and so It does." "I hope you're not going to bring it In, too," said Lucy Burke. "Yah I" said Ole, opening his mouth In a great circular orifice and laughing silently while his head rocked In inward appreciation of Mrs. Burke's joke. "Ay tank she make good bedding, but not tonight Ay pitch 'lm off beside dah barn." We found it was true. Ole, having nothing to bring but a load of hay, in the fullness of his heart brought that. But an even more striking token of that community spirit which was the salvation of these early days was now to be presented. Sneezlt had slipped out while the hay was under discussion and now came thundering In, his broad back bearing a whole dressed carcass of pig. Sneezlt did not trust his English to make any remarks, but he smiled broadly under his bristly mustache. . . . But what I saw was a dug-out full of children, with eyes peering through the gloom, and little, wistful, silent mouths. Now It's my turn," said Spoof, but Jake interrupted. As it happened, I was down in Reglna on business connected with ^ gpy estate when news o* this approach- *n Ma' tieup on Fourteen reached me, by means of s note from Spoof," Jake explained. "At first I couldn't make head or hinder of it It was so bad wrote. So I took It to a young fellow I know with lots o' learnin*; got to know him on aecount o' the lnt'rest he usta take In the people on Twentytwo; he found out I located youse boys an' girls and usta come roun' pretty regMar askln' questions casuallike, an' I ssys to him, 'How many shirts does a fellow get on this laundry ticket V Well, he read It over slow to himself, an' then he jus' sits lookln' at nothln' tlll l begun to think maybe there was some bad langwidge such as he couldn't repeat In my presence. An' after awhile he says, 'Jake, Jus' another mirage; you know, those phenom'na'--that's what he called It --'on the prairie that makes you think things is what they ain't. Let's go down town,' he says, an' on" the way he tells me what's in the ticket Well, I thought he wss leadln' for s bar, which Is the best place I know of to raise a new mirage when your old one goes bust, but danged If he don' head me Into a jewelry store. And there he buys this." Jake delved Into a pocket and brought out a little gold pendant, a chaste and delicate example of the goldsmith's art. He held it for a moment to the admiring gaze of all preseat before resuming his narrative. *" *Glve that,' my friend says, 'with my good wishes sn's touch o' my regrets, to the young lady on Twentytwo, vrftti the compliments o' Sergeant Brook,' he says," and so Jake placed the little golden trinket In Jean's hands. . . . It tis a difficult situation. Jean's first Impulse was to hand It back. "Better accept It,* X whispered to her. "The fewer explanations the better." "But It--tfs a wedding present" she remonstrated. "How can I . . .T* "Keep it until you need it" I •aggested. Jean was very lovely in the heightened color of her embarrassment, and as her hand fell by my side I seized It surreptitiously In my own. "Oh, Jean, why not make it tonight T" I whispered, mad with her beauty and her nearness. "It's quite impossible," she answered, but she did not immediately withdraw her hand. She left me marveling more and more over the tantalizing complexity of her attitude toward me. Fortunately, the Interest of those about us had been quickly rearrested by Jake. "Havln" s little weakness o' my own," Jake was continuing, "although I never said nothln' about it, not wishing to start a scene with Bella Donna, I bought Its mate fer the lady on Fourteen." And with this little speech he placed another pendant in the hands of Marjorle. "When I came to Canada to farm," said Spoof, after the excitement over Jake's gift had died down, "I came equipped for everything but farming. I could have started a second-hand store, a curiosity shop, an arsenal, or a music hall much better than I could start a farm. In fact, I feel like all of these things, except, perhaps, the music hall, when I look around my shack. Particularly well was I equipped against savages, grizzly bears, and mountain lions. I remember the days I spent In picking out my rifles, weighing the qualities of this arm and that, and the penetrating power of the different bullets. My biggest game so far has been a badger, whose hide now adorns the den of my immediate and admiring ancestor. Out of the abundance of my defenses I now bring to you, John Lane, this piece of artillery, with the injunction that it must never be pointed toward section Two, and, preferably, not at anything else. Hang It over your portal, as evidence that you can be a desperate man upon occasion, and let It go at that. I have been thoughtful enough not to bring any ammunition." Spoof then produced, out of the bedroom where Brown, acting as his agent, had secretly cached It, a repeating rifle, which Jack handled with as much admiration as Marjorle spent on her pendant snd then placed it lovingly away. "Now X believe that's all," said Spoof. "Not yet," Beddy interrupted. want to be In on this, slthough I didn't come prepared." He had written something in s notebook, which he now tore out and handed to Jack. It was a receipt for the price of his wedding ring. Jack protested, but Reddy would have It no other way. The only one not represented by a presentation was the minister, but ha proved equal to the occasion. "My children," he said--ha was not much older than Jack or I, perhaps about the age of Spoof--"I am not a man of the world, and consequently cannot give you of the good things which the world provides. The theory that a minister should lay up his treasure in heaven Is taken rather literally In these times. I sm not quarreling with that Materialism is the murderous outlaw of the age, an enemy that goes bullying through the land, outraging our finer natures, overturning our Ideals, polluting our ambitions. I hope I am not envious of his followers. And to you, I give something that money could not buy-- my blessing, with a promise of my mtitrations, without charge, on those future occasions upon which it may be assumed you will be in need of them." The minister had escaped from a somewhat embarrassing position with the dignity that became his calling, and with a gentle joke that showed how very human he was st heart. "Clear out the pork and the seed wheat," Spoof ordered, as there seemed likely to be a lull in the night's enjoyment. "Ole, It Is fortunate that Mrs. Burke persuaded you not to bring In your load of hay." So the floor was cleared. The door, when opened, revealed a wedge of snowstorm whistling by, but Inside the wintry weather was forgotten and the tremor of our shanty's timbers passed unnoticed. Reddy had mounted himself on our own table--the big one had been taken out in pieces--and was twisting the strings of a violin to tune. Presently his bow cut loose a drone of dancing rhythm, and feet began te tap the plain pine boards of the floor. "Pardners all 1" Jake commanded. It was evident he was to be master of ceremonies; he had Just taken a great chew of tobacco to promote the flow of language. The Insistent nots of the violin brought Jack and ma, with Marjorle and J<tan, Mr. and Mrs. Burke, and Mr. and Mrs. Brown, to the center of the room. The dancing would be of the "square-dance" variety, which was no novelty, to us or to the Burkes, and which the others would soon pick up under the guidance of Professor Jake. Slute yer pardner! . . . Pass er by . . . Balance to the next" And we were off. Jake and the fiddler warmed up with the dancers, snd presently the shanty was rocking with the stamp and the swing of It Those were not the days of dancing that is little more than walk; one danced with all his heart and body, and was not afraid to disks the floors and ceilings. The end of the set found us perspiring and happy. And so the evening worn on. Ole snd Olga Joined the dancers In the third set, and thereafter never left the flow; Andy Smith ventured Into Marjorle's arms, and in five minutes was feeling younger than In the days of his apprenticeship on the Clyde; Spoof danced with Jean as much as seemed necessary. When Spoof was not monopolizing her, Burke or Brown or Smith was. But at length she spurned us all In order that she might win Mr. Sneezlt to the floor. The Russian hesitated, fearing to appear foolish, but he would have been more or less than human If be could have resisted Jean's enticements, and presently she was leading him through the simple movements of a cotillion. At length they went. The flurries of snow had driven by; the moon poured Its silver radiance on a world of downy ivory, and the bigger stars blinked stolidly from a steel-blue heaven as our guests bundled themselves into Jumpers and sleighs and took their departure. Theii' cries of good wishes and good luck were wafted back to us above the crunch- are distinguished and rather more Ing of the snow. We watched theni than ordinarily beautiful, with nothuntil they faded out of sight In theN white moonlight Hard to Get Couple to Agree on Money "fading; It Is largely the "nlceness" of middle- class married folk, making them unwilling to discuss "the sordid matter of money." that causes trouble for wage-earning wives, says one of them, writing anonymously la the Woman's Home Companion. Says the wage-earning wiffc: "Unexpectedly enough It was thst double Income which even our eld-fssbloned relatives had approved that became our chief difficulty, if the economic dependence of women had tyrants on the one hand and cowards on the other, the economic Independence of women has Its own dangers. Two people, esch accustomed to earning his own living, to spending his own Income, have a good deal of adjusting to do before they learn how to merge two incomes Into one, and until that lesson Is learned they flounder la a financial morass." The eolation for the problems of their household, the wage-earning wife continues, came when the husbai himself t would have said te s brother with whom he was keeping house, or any man friend: 'See here, you're holding out on me. Tou can't go on buying rugs until you've paid your share tor the kitchen ceiling. Shell out'" Experience of Dollar BtU The Chicago chamber of commerce recently carried out sn interesting experiment In order to trace what happened to a dollar bill within the short space of 14 days. It put into circula tion a new bill, with a circular attached asking every person Into whose hand it came to make a note of the use he had made of It By the end of the fortnight It had been spent 81 times--five times in payment of salaries or wages, five times for tobacco, five times for cigarettes, three times for meals, three times for candy, twice for shaves, twice for "men's furnishings," and once for collar hn*»on«L i automobile accessories, bacca *v»wder, garters, aad tost)r *be tea daace demands something more formal than a tailored suit or the ordinary all-day outfit that of late has served even the most modlshly dressed women who drop Is to tea and stop for a dance or two. The extreme severity of line in the styles of late seasons has softened. The gowns one see* now at the smart rendezvous, observes a fashion authority in the New York Times, have more elaboration of detail and a general "dressy" air. This season's materials are rich and colorful; velvet, fine cloths, metal, silk and satin brocades and novelties of the most delicate quality and the highest degree of art in design and color. (The best-known names In the center of styles creation are attached to the models one sees In the smartest places. One with a background of prestige is Drecoll, past master of the art of dress as presented by the woman of elegance. It is said of Drecoll's gowns, wraps and ensembles that they are never "out of style." Some of the happiest creations of his career are shown In this season's collection. Drecoll, always noted for his use of handsome materials, is handling velvet with skill in many unusual designs and in original combinations. Without the slightest suggestion of clumsiness or overelaboration, he treats velours with as much freedom as if it were chiffon. In one of the most stunning models shown by this house gold lame and black velvet are combined. The metallic tissue is finely plaited and the velvet is added to a straight-line foundation In the form of a circular flounce. Drecoll treats with equally happy results several Interesting combinations of sheer and heavy material. He adds wide bands of velours to a gown of georgette, fur to chiffon and velvet to any one of several fragile fabrics in a manner both original and attractive. Among Drecoll's Creations. Nothing more fascinating among the fashions has emauted from Paris this season than Drecoll's models. His treatment of the latest silhouette, in which the natural line of the body is followed, is most clever. This is apparent in some charming princess gowns for afternoon, made of velvet and the new brocaded chiffon velvets. It is shown also in gowns, with the hip-length bodice and gathered skirt. Drecoll treats the lifted front line of the skirt very skillfully. The hem Is Invariably uneven, and the skirt fullness is distributed In different ways according to the style of the frock. A design of which the Drecoll atelier apparently never tires is the surplice front with a slightly cascading drapery at one side. This season's models twees anarrowcu# at the eAsw ss<t y the top of the sleeve In another th«'/. sleeve is plain from the shoulder t<$^' »* the point of the elbow, where tha<$ lower part is gathered on full. It held by a narrow band at the wrlst£ f|; Patou, In creating an elaborate afterf\J|.. noon wrap of a Bianchlni fabric, cutJySif the sleeve tight at the top and flaring ^ wide at the hand. ' -- Interesting Sleev* Designs. .. Worth has presented several tnt-- esting sleeve designs. In one c©E|^pr model he makes the cloth sleeve '< snugly, with a wider oversleeve ojf, -v fur three-quarters up from the hand|. held with a narrow band of th^,'*?' stitched cloth. In another, this sajn# *. -s. - ' 4# Soon after Jack and Marjorle and Jean crossed the snow-filled valley to their overcrowded house, and left me one that was overempty. For a long time I stood looking into the stove, with lid and lifter In my hand, in the act of putting on more wood. The glow of the coals went gray as I watched, and, for the first time Is my life, I measured the depth to which the plummet of loneliness ess pluses, . . . (lO SB COMTIMUn.) Ancient "Strong Boxn Has Intricate Lock Heave to, reader, and take a look at an old sea chest. One that any old-time pirate In good standing would have given three yards of his mustache to possess. It rests In the front room of tha home of F. S. Allen of Los Angeles. Mr. Alien devotes his time to collecting antiques and when he saw this old iron chest over in Italy he bought It It's a battered old box made of iron. It was brought up from the bottom of the Mediterranean sea, where it reposed hundreds of years. As far as Mr. Allen can trace its history, tbs chest sppsrently was on bosrd one of the ships that made up a Spanish armada of sixteen ships thst went down in a storm in the Straits of Messina, in 1258. Mr. Allen discovered it among a lot of other curios In the San Mateo monastery up in the hills back of Naples. It has a lock os it that spreads all over the under side of the lid like a big metal spider web. When the ltd Is shut there are a couple of hasps that come down on the front side of tbs chest through which a big Iron bar Is run and a padlock attached. You remove the big padlock, undo the hasps and lift, but your lift doesn't get you anywhere. The lid wont come up. If you are clever enough you discover that one of the rivet heads on top of the chest moves on s spring, revealing s big keyhole. You insert the key, give her a twist and eleven bolts are sprung back, releasing ths lid. There Is a dummy keyhole on ths front side of the chest It wss put there to teass the pirates. Asgelea Times. ing of the bizarre. Some of the models are done In the new shades of gray, with silver; in metallic fabrics j with warm Bhades of wine, plum and rose velvet and In striking combinations of black with the metal brocades. Drecoll uses much fur, but his models have little of the cheap furs one sees on so many of this season's gowns. Mink, real fox, lynx and ermine are shown on some of his best models. In a particularly handsome ensemble of metal brocade and velvet, the wrap Is bordered all around with black lynx. A distinguished feature of Drecoll's creations is the sleeve. All of the gowns for afternoon have sleeves, most of them long, but few absolutely plain, either on gowns or on coats. The puff and gathered-under sleeves are shown In several variants. On one model a puff is introduced be- Indian DUdmnt Cold The Indian's body is "all face," as he explains. That's why he can keep comfortable In a breech doth and really enjoy the cool breeze that blowa off the glaciers. In the midsummer season, groups of Blackfeet mountain hikers often climb to the cliffs in the Rocky mountains of Glacier National park, thus thinly clad, paying no attention to the cold air from toff the snow-capped peaks. And they are sot training to get In a "peak" condition for a single event either. Wrap of Metallic Brocade Is Trimmefl t: With 8ilver Fox couturier tucks the material fladf from a band of fur above the elbow ^ to another at the wrist In still att*.?: other novel design he has a tighj^ fitting sleeve from the shoulder to thflt - elbow, with a puff the rest of tfai# < length, gathered into a narrow wrists band. Phllllpe et Gaston are showing some late models of gowns in whicfe the sleeves are long and very fuUt widening below the elbow, but iJH. variably gathered Into a close cuff St the hand. Bernard treats the sleevef. of both gowns and coats in a som^r < * what tailored fashion with wide cufflk Those from Beer are done te much the same fashion. Martial et Armanii are showing some designs in sleeves that are cuffed below the elbow in s rather extreme manner. Jean Magnip). presents two models of striking an! " unusual design. In one, a handsoms wrap of sliver lame and black velvet* an enormous sleeve cut in one pleos with the coat Is of two materials, ths upper part of lame, with velou«|; gathered In full underneath. THS; whole tapers to the hand, where It It ^ finished with a narrow wristlet of tan matching the band with which ths wrap Is finished down each side of the front and around the bottoafc From this couturier comes an entlr#^ ly different design. In this the sleeps of a velvet afternoon coat fits tighttp from shoulder to wrist i i : '•*r1 , ; ; Metal Cloths Fashionable for Coats and Wrap* In the very latest models for afternoon some of the most Important fabrics of the season are presented. Metallic cloths and metal brocades are exceedingly fashionable, particularly for coats and wraps. The new-' est coat, which will be featured for the Southern resorts and for the spring season In town, of silk and metal or ail metal cloth, is straight or flaring slightly. It must be but 86 Inches long. It Is almost invariably trimmed with some sort of fur, and marabou Is coming Into vogue'again. The usual model Is conventional, only the sleeve being in novel design. Crepe and crepe satin are tremendously popular and the ribbed silks, bengallne, velvet and fine wool rep are used a great deal. For the most elaborate gowns many of the new brocaded chiffon velvets are seen. These are of infinite variety in pattern, in the most gorgeous colors, the warmest tones of red. delphinium blue, green, brown, burnt umber and all the tints of the most colorful flowers of mid-summer and autumn. Some of these materials are dyed in shades with charming' effect. They are as ornate that no trimming Is require^ Gowns of plain material are ornsmented In different ways with for, passementerie, stunning motifs or tbt new girdle of silk In a contrasting color, or handsomely brocaded ribbon. Though the lines are a matter of Individual design, many ' models have the flare at the side and in tbs back. Some have a definite suggestion of the bustle or pannier. In this detail Martial et Armand have doss some interesting things. Premet Is fond of the one-piece gown with s decided ln-curve at the waistline and a flare at the sides. Appearance* Deceitftsl The appearance of fullness in maay skirts is deceitful. Many of the skirts are as slhn and as closely cut as ever but the appearance of a bell-like sweep at the hem is given by a deep band of fluffy flowers. One such gown Imported from Paris is of the cyclamen mousseline de sole, with a, tight bodice and a great frill of huge moussellne de soflir, roses posed about the skirt. Simple Lines for Chic Winter Sports Outfits While greater formality of line and detail is a distinctive feature of the fashions of the new season, this trend has little bearing upon clothes designed for sports and country wear. Today the smart woman differential ates between the types of clothes for town wear and the models which have become almost a uniform with those who live In the suburbs or In the more remote country places. Suitability is the keynote of chic and the woman with a flair for fashion 'Fisr m Corpm BiffltfiR are believed to be ffif iwosl superstitious of all people. Often they have been known to desert ship when A New Embroidery Hoop Embroidery is so popular now as dress ornamentation and then, too, fancywork is occupying the time of "faany women, so they will probably be glad to know they ran get an embroid ery hoop that will hold the sheerest piece of fabric absolutely tight. This appreciable advantage is due to the osfpr rim being heavier than tlfe intoo, there are grooving* never makes the mlstaJbs sf being ojiS of the picture. Simple little two-piece frocks fs many variations predominate in ths wardrobe of the week-ender. They range in type from the colorful littls knitted affairs of gay or subtle toned yarns to those developed in tweed er velveteen, which this season are ranked as among the most important fabrics. So strong is the sports influence that in the collections of many of the best known French designers the two-piece frock of sturdy tweed was conspicuously featured. In color they are ss> ceedingly charming and intensely b4h conring, for the varied tones are cleverly blended to give an effect ii). which, as one particular shade standass*. • - m &- For the Traveler A small leather case which comes la several attractive colors contains all the toilet essentials for the travel^ and has the advantage of occupyinjf S very small place in one's luggage* v 1 itM Mr.