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wr; ̂ w nr i ̂ j r \ JUT p iy-Sr-i mm DISCOVERY OF THE test' Published by special arrange* H , ment with the New York Times, ItJP Chicago Tribune and London - 41 Times, acting for Commander ^ Robert E. Peary. iL>*t*' h Notice to Publishers. ' fwl following account by Command­ er Robert E. Peary of his successful voyage to the north pole was Issued ©n September 10 by the New York Times Company at the request of Commander Peary and for his protec­ tion, as a book only, copyrighted and exposed for 6ale before any part of It was reproduced by any newspaper in the United States or Europe, in «order to obtain the full protection of the copyright laws. The reproduction of this account, in any form, without permission, is ^forbidden. The penal­ ties for violation of this form of copy­ right include imprisonment for any person aiding or abetting such viola­ tion. This article is copyrighted in Great Britain by the London Times. Copyright, 1909, by the New York Times Company. This narrative Is -also copyrighted as a newspaper arti­ cle by the New York Times Company. flEPORT OF THE DISCOVERY OF THE NORTH POLE by Robert E. Peary, Commander U. S. N., Copy­ right, 1909, by the New York Times Company. Peary Denies Cook Claim. Battle Harbor, Labrador (via Marconi •wireless. Cape Hay, N. F.), Sept. 10. Do not trouble about Cook's story, or at­ tempt to explain any discrepancies In his statements. The affair -will settle Itself. He has not been at the pole on April "21, 1908, or at any other time. He has ••simply handed the public a gold brick. These statements are made advisedly, -and I have proof of them. When he makes a full statement of his journey •over his signature to some geographical -society, or other reputable body, if that ^statement contains the claim that he has reached the pole, I shall be in a posi­ tion to furnish material that may prove <4Bstinctly Interesting reading for the pub­ lic. ROBERT E. PEARY. «'« > a 1 J , ^ *11 m till 7"ill i III Hi M |/1'II » ty' 1 'ij III fij lT ftfll lfflHI<- M 1 4 w *->.4 * ^ , kr % 3i i r i t i < -at* -,«<#*. ' % , . .. 4 s *.>1 •>. >* - . - m i ^ American Explbl̂ r'i Owff Stoî Irf His Thrilling and Successful Dash to the Absolute Aoex of the Earth^Sfff2* Mr Battle Harbor. Labrador (via Marco­ ni wireless. Cape Ray, N. F.). Sept. 9. The steamer Roosevelt, bearing the ; north polar expedition of the Peary ,fe: •, Arctic club, parted company with the v Erik and steamed out of Etah ford late al-.t. 1n the afternoon of August 18. 1908, ipt setting the usual course for Cape Sa- §p bine. The weather was dirty, with l$f*. fresh southerly winds. We had on lM'; iKiard 22 Eskimo men. If women, and w,,* " JO children. 226 dogs, and some forty . odd walrus. ISf' = We encountered the Ice a short dis- Jr.vL „• tance from the mouth of the harbor, T)ut it was not closely packed, and was 5$V,negotiated by the Roosevelt without fft . «erlSam difficulty Find Much Water. . lis' 1 As we neared Cape Sabine the we«th- ^ «r cleared somewhat and we passed by f j Three Voort island and Cape Sabine, . j*- -easily making out with the naked eye fe "the house at Hayes harbor occupied by, fine in the winter at 1901-02.- ^ From Cape Sabine north there was «o much water that we thought of set­ ting the lug sail before the southerly wind, but a little later appearance of ice to the northward stopped this. There was clean open water to Cape Albert, and from there scattered ice -to, a point about abreast of Victoria "Headf.,. thick wefther and dense Ice "bringing us some ten or fifteen miles away. From here we drifted south somewhat etnd then got aslant to the northward out of the current. We worked a little further north and stopped again for come hours. Then we again worked westward and northward till we •reached a series of lakes, coming to a •stop a few miles south of the Wind­ ward's winter quarters at Cape Dur- •vflle. From here, after some -delay, we aslowly worked a way north eastvrard through fog and broken ice of medium thickness through one night and the forenoon of the next dfiy, only emerg­ ing- into open water and" clear weather Off Cape Fraser. j Strike Ice and Fog. From this point we had a clear run through the middle of Robeson channel -uninterrupted by either ice or fog. to X^idy Franklin bay. Here We encoun- Tterert both ice and fog, and while •working along in search of a practi- •cable opening were forced across to the Greenland coast at Thank God I W: I" !j . ferring supplies to Cape Columbia was inaugurated. ; Marvin with Dr. Good- sail and Borup and the Eskimos, took 16 sledge loads of supplies to Cape Belknap and on the 27th the same party started wi':h loads to Porter bay. The work of hunting and transporting supplies was prosecuted continuously by the members of the party and the Eski­ mos until November 5. when the sup­ plies for the spring sledge trip had been removed from winter quarters and de­ posited at various places from Cape Go­ lan to Cape Columbia. 1 The latter part of September the move­ ment of the ice subjected the ship to A pressure which listed it to port some eight or ten degrees, and it did not re­ cover till the following spring. On October 1 I went on a hunt with two Eskimos across the 3ejd and Pass bay and the peninsula, made the circuit of Clemants Marliham inlet, and returned to the ship in-seven days with 15 musk oxen, a bear and a deer. Later in October I repeated the trip, obtaining five musk oxen," and hunting parties . secured some 40 deer. Supplies Moved to Base. In the February moon Bartlett, went to Cape Hecla, Goodsall moved some more supplies from Hecla to Cape Colan, atfd Borup went to Markham inlet on a hunt­ ing trip. On February 15 Bartlett left the Roosevelt with his division for Cape Columbia and Parr bay. Goodsall, Borup, MacMillan and Han­ sen followed on successive days with their provisions. Marvin returned from Cape Bryant on February 17 and left for Cape Columbia on February 21. I brought up the rear on February 22. The total of all divisions leaving the Roosevelt was seven members of the party, 59 Eskimos, 140 dogs and 23 sledges. Make Ready for Dash. By February 27 such of the Cape Colan depot as was needed had been brought up to Cape Columbia, the dogs were rested and double rationed and harnessed, and the sledges and other gear over­ hauled. Four months of northerly winds during the fall and winter instead of souther­ ly ones, as during the previous season, led me to expect less open water than before, but a great deal of rough Ice, and I was prepared to hew a road through the jagged ice for the first hundred miles or so. then cross the big lead. Bartlett Leads the Way. On the last day of February Bartlett, with his pioneer division, accomplished this, and his division got away due north over the tee on March 1. The rest of the party got away on Bartlett's trail, and 1 followed an hour later. The party now comprised seven mem­ bers of the expedition, 17 Eskimos, 133 dogs and 19 sledges. One Eskimo and seven dogs had gone to pieces. A strong easterly wind, drifting snow, and temperature in the minus marked our departure from the camp at Cape Columbia, which I had christened Crane City. Rough ice In the first march damaged several sledges and smashed two beyond repair, the teams going back to Columbia for ether sledges in reserve there. Pass British Record. We "Camped ten miles from Crane City. The easterly wind and low temperature continued. In the second march wo passed the British record made by Mark- ham in May, 187(^-82.20--and were stopped by open water, which had been formed by wind after Bartlett passed. In this march we negotiated the lead and reached Bartlett's third camp. Borup had gone hack from here, but misled his way, owing to the faulting of the trail by the movement,of the iee. Marvin came back also for more fuel and alcohol. The wind continued, form­ ing open water all about us. At the end of the fourth march we came upon Bartlett, who had been stopped ' by a wide lake of open water. We retrained here from March 4 to March 11. Gets Glimpse of Sun.^ At noon of March 5 the sun, red and shaped like a football by excessed re­ flection, Jtiat raised itself above the hori­ zon for a few minutes and then disap­ peared again. It was the first time I had seen it since October, I. I now began to feel a good deal of anxiety because there were no signs of Marvin and Borup, who should have been there for two days. Besides, they had the alcohol and oil, whioh were in­ dispensable for us. We concluded that they had either lost the trail or were imprisoned on an is­ land by open water, probably the latter. Fortunately, on March 11 the lead?was practicable and, leaving a note for Mar- f ..**§£ ... - > , . ' ̂ ." A\ » ?•$ C Goal of Centuries Reached By Marvelously Swift Travel, Smooth Ice and Mild Weather Helping--Sensations of Intrepid » Commander at Climax of His life Work. Harbor. The fog lifted there and enabled us to make out our whereabouts and we steamed north through a series of leads past Cape Lupton, and thence south­ ward toward Cape Union. A few miles off that cape we were stopped by im­ practicable ice. and we drifted back •south to Cape Union, where we stopped ULgaln- i ^ Ship Forced Aground. ' "We lay for some time in a lAke of •Tirater, and then, to prevent, being drift- *ed south again, took refuge under the inorth shore of Lincoln bay, in nearly the Identical place where we had our txnpleasant experiences three years be­ fore. Here we remained for severeal days during a period of constant and At times violent, northeasterly winds. Twice we were forced aground by •*he heavy ice; we had our port quar­ ter rail broken and a hole stove In the bulWarks, and twice we pushed out In an attempt to get north, but were forced back each time to our precari­ ous shelter. 4 Heavy Running Ice. I "Finally on September 2 we squeeaed •round Cape Union and made fast in a •hallow niche in the ice, but after some toours we made another Bhort run to JESlack cape and hung on to a grounded J»it of ice. At last, a little after mid­ night of September 6, we passed through extremely heavy running ice lnt<i a stream of open water, rounded Cape Xfauwson and passed Cape Sheridan. ^Irtthin a quarter of an hour of the •atjbe time we arrived three years before --«even a. m.. September 5--we reached the open water extending beyond Cape iJherldan. We steamed up to the end of It and It appeared practicable at first to reach Porter bay, near Cape Joseph Henly, which I had for my winter quarters, but th# outlook being unsatisfactory, I went back and put the Roosevelt into the only opening in the floe, beiTig barred close to the mouth of the Sheridan riv­ er a little north of our position three <T*fcrs prior. 1 Put Up for Winter. Tfhe season was further advanced than In 1905; there was more snove on the (round and the new ice inside the floe bergs was much thicker. The work of discharging tho ship was eommehced at once and rushed to com­ pletion. The supplies and equipment we •lodged across ice and sea artd deposited on shore. A house and workshop were »ujlt of board, covered with sails, and fitted with stoves, and the ship was SnQg for winter to shoal watnr. where it torched bottom at low tide. Tbe settlement on the stormy shores of the Arctic ocean was chrif.tened Hub- s. JMtrdville. " Hunting parties were sent out on Sep­ tember W and a hear was brought In on ttke 12th and some deer a day or two ; later. * Oa September IS the rull vuk of trans- vin and Borup to push on after us by forced marches, .we proceeded north ward. The sounding of the lead gave 110 fathoms. > During this march We crossed the eighty-fourth parallel and traveled a succession of just frozen leads, irom a few hundred yards to a mile In, width. This march was really simple. On the fourteenth we got free of the leads and came on decent going. While we were making camp a courier from Marvin came and Informed^, me he was on the riiarch In the rear. The temper­ ature was 59 below zero. The following morning, March 15; I sent Hansen with his division north to* pio­ neer a trail for five marches, and Dr. Goodsell, according to the program, start­ ed back to Cape Columbia. MacMillan Turns Back. At nlgtit Marvin and Uorup came spin­ ning in with their men and dogs steam­ ing in the bitter air like a squadron of battleships. Their arrival relieved me of all anxiety as to our oil supply. In the morning I discovered that Mac- Millan's foot was badly frost bitten. The mishap had occurred two'or three days before, but MacMillan had said nothing about It In the hope that it would come out all right. A glance at the Injury showed me that the only thing was to send him back to Cape Columbia at once. The arrival of Marvin and Borup enabled me to spare sufficient men and dogs to so back with him. Loss Is Serious One. This early loss of MacMillan was seri­ ously disappointing to me. He had a sledge ali the way from Cape Columbia, and with his enthusiasm and the powers and physique of the trained athlete I had confidence in him for at least the 86th parallel, but there was no alterna­ tive. The best sledges and, doss were select­ ed and the sledge loads brought up to the standard. The sounding gave a depth of 325 fathoms. We were over the continual shelf, and, as I had surmised, the successive leads crossed In the fifth and sixth marches composed the big lead and marked the continual shelf- On leaving the camp the expedition comprised 16 men, 12 sledges and 100 dogs The next march was satisfactory as re gards distance and the character of the going. In the latter part there were pronounced movements in the ice, both visible and addible Some leads were crossed, 'Iri one of which Borup and his team took a bath, and we were finally stopped by an Im­ practicable lead opening lu front of us. We camped In a. temperature of 60 de­ grees below, At the end of two short marches we came upon Hansen and his party In camp, mending their sledge?. We de­ voted the remainder of the day to over­ hauling and mending sledges and break­ ing up our damaged ones for material The next morning 1 put Marvin la the lead to pioneer the trail, with instruc­ tions to make two forced mairchea to bring up our average which had been. cu| down by the last two short ones. Mtafvtn carried out his instructions im­ plicitly. A considerable amount of young ice assisted in this. At the end of the tenth march, latitude S5.23, Boru;> turned back in command of £he second supporting party, having trav­ eled a diatance equivalent to Nansen's distance from this far to his farthest north. , I was sorry to loSe thiis yoting Tale runner, with his enthusiasm and pluck. He had led his heavy sledge over the floes in a way that commanded every­ one's admiration and would have made his father's eyes glisten. Changes His Plan. From this point the expedition com­ prised 30 men, 10 sledges, and 70 dogs. It was necessary for Marvin to take a sledge from here, and I put; Bartlett and his division in advance to pioneer the trail. The continual daylight enabled me to make a moderation here that brought my advance and main parties closer together and reduced the likelihood of-their be­ ing separated by open leads. After Bartlett left camp with Hender­ son and their division, Marvin and I re­ mained with our division 20 hours long­ er and then followed. When we reached Bartlett's camp he broke out and went on and we turned In. By this arrange­ ment the advance party was traveling while the main party was asleep, and vice versa, and I was In touch with BIT advance party every 24 hours. Moves Expeditiously. - I had no reason to complain of the going for the next two marches, though for a less experienced party, less adapt­ able sledges, or less perfect equipment it would have been an impossibility. At our position at the end of the sec­ ond march, Marvin obtained a satisfac­ tory sight for latitude in clear weather, whicli placed us at 85.48. The result agreed satisfactorily with the dead reck­ oning of Marvin, Bartlett and myself. Up to this time, the slight altitude of the sun had made it not worth while to waste time In , observations. On the next two jmarehes the going im­ proved, and we covered good distances. In one of these marches a* lead delayed us a few hours. We finally ferried across the Ice cakes. Makes Record Run. The next day Bartlatt let himself out, evidently, for a record, and reeled off 20 miles. Here Marvin obtained anothei satisfactory sight on latitude, which gave the position as S6.38 (or«beyond the farth­ est north of Nansen and Abruzzl), and showed that we had covered 50 minutes of latitude in three marches. In these three marches we had passed the Norwegian record of 8$. 14, by Nan- sen, and the Italian record of 86.34, by Cagni. From this point Marvin turned back in command of the third supporting party. My last words to him were: "Be care­ ful of the leads, • my boy." The party from this point comprised pine men, seven sledges, and 60 dogs. The conditions at this camp and the ap­ parently unbroken expanse of fairly level Ice in every direction reminded me of Cagni's description of hfs farthest north. Danger Is Encountered. But I was not deceived by the appar­ ently favorable outlook, for available conditions never continue -for any dis­ tance or any length of time in the arc- <)c regions. ^ The next march was over good go­ ing, but for the first time since leaving land we experienced that condition, fre­ quent over these ice fields, of a hazy at­ mosphere, In which the light Is eqtial everywhere. All relief Is destroyed, and it is Impossible to see for any distance. ' We were obliged In this march to . make a detour around an open lead. In the next march we encountered the heaviest and deepest snow of the Journey, through a thick, smothering mantle lying In the' depressions of heavy rubble ice. Temporarily Discouraged. I came upon Bartlett and his party, fagged out and temporarily discouraged by the heartracking work of making road. I knew what was the matter with them. They were simply spoiled by the good going on the previous marches. I rallied them a Dit, lightened their sledges and sent them oh encouraged again. During the next march we traveled through a thick haze drifting over the' ice before a biting air from the north­ east. At the end of the march we came upon the captain camped beside a wide open lead with a dense black water sky northwest, north- rfhd -northeast. The next march was also a long one. It was Bartlett's last hit. Ho let him­ self out over a series of large old floes, steadily increasing in dlamkter and covered with hard snow. Wind Helps Out. During the last few miles X walked beside him or in advance. He was sol­ emn and anxious to go further, but the program was for him to go back from here In command of the fourth sup­ porting party, and there were no sup­ plies for an Increase in the main party. In this march we encountered a high ind for the first time since the three days after we left Cape Columbia. It was- dead In our faces, bitter and in sistent. but I had no reason to com" plain, it was better than an easterly or southerly wind, either of which would have set us adrift in open wa- tej-, while this was closing up every lead behind. This furnished another advantage of my supporting parties. True, by so doing it was pressing to the south the ice over which we traveled, and so rob­ bing us of a hundred miles of advan­ tage. ' Eighty-Four Is Pased. We concluded we were on or near the eighty-eighth parallel, unless the north wind had lost us several miles. The wind blew all night aad all next day. At this camp. In the morning, Bart­ lett started to walk five or six miles to the north to make sure of reaching the eighty-eighth parallel. While he was gone I selected the 40 best dogs in the outfit and had them doubled. I picked out five of the best sledges and assigned them expressly to tile captain's party. I broke up the sev­ enth for material with which to repair the others and set Eskimos at this work. Bartlett returned in time to take a satisfactory observation for latitude In clear weather, and obtained for our i/o- sitlon 87.48. and that showed that the continued north wind had robbed us of a number of miles of hard-earned distance. Bartlett took the observation thei* as had Margin five camps back, partly to save my eyes, but largely to gtve an independent record and determina­ tion of our advance. The observations completed and two Copies made, one for him and the other for me, Bartlett started on the back trail In command of my fourth , sup-, porting party, with two Eskimo^ One sledge and 18 dogs. Bartlett Did Good Work When he left I felt for a moment pangs of regret as he disappeared in the distance, but It was only momen­ tary. My work was still ahead, not in the rear. Bartlett had done good work and had been a-great help to me. Circumstances' had thrust the brunt of the pioneering upon him instead of dividing it among several, as I had planned. He had reason to take pride In the ' fact that he had bettered the Italian record by a degree and a quarter and had covered a distance equal to the entire distance of the Italian expedi­ tion from Frans Josef's land to Cagni's farthest north. I. had given Bartlett this position and post of honor In command of my fourth and last supporting party, and for two reasons: first, because of his magnificent handling of the Roosevelt; second, because he had cheerfully stood between me and many trifling annoy­ ances on the expeditions. Then there was a third reason. It seemed to me appropriate in view of the magnificent British record of arc­ tic work, covering three centuries, that it should be a British subject who could boast that, next to an AmerlOM, he had been nearest the pole. Ready for Final Effort. With the disappearance of Bartlett 1 turned to the problem before me. This was that for which I had worked for 33 years, for which I had lived the simple life; for which I had conserved all my energy on the upward trip; for which I had trained myself as for a race, crush­ ing down every worry about success. In spite of my years, I felt in trim- fit for the demands of the coming days and eager to bo on the trait. As for my party, my equipment, and my supplies, I was In shape beyond my most sanguine dreams of earliest years. My_ party might be regarded as an Ideal, which had now come to realization --as loyal and responsive to my will as the fingers of my right hand. Men All Tried and True. Four of them possess the technique of dogs, sledges, ice, and cold as their heri­ tage. Two of them, Hansen and Ootam, were my companions to the farthest point three years before. Two others, Eginwuk and Stgloo, were in Clark's division, which had such a narrow escape at that time, and now were willing to go any­ where with my Immediate party, and willing to risk themselves again in any supporting party. The fifth was a young man who had neve*«served before in any expedition, but who was, If possible, even -more willing and eager than the others for the princely gifts--a boat, a rifle, a shot­ gun, ammunition, knives, etc., which I had promised to each of them who reached the pole with me; for he knew that these riches would enable him to wrest from a stubborn father the girl whose Image filled his hot young heart. All Followed Him Blindly. All had blind confidence so long as I was with them, and gave no thought for the morrow, sure that whatever hap­ pened I should somehow get them back to land. But I dealt with the party equally. I recognized that all Its im­ petus centered in me, and that whatever pace" I set it would make good. If any­ one played out, I would stop for a short time. I had no fault to find with the condi­ tions. My dogB were the best, the pick of 122 with which we left Columbia. Al­ most all were powerful males, hard as nails. In good flesh, but without a super­ fluous ounce, and, what was better yet, they were all In good spirits. My sledges, now that the repairs were completed, were in good condition. My supplies were ample tojr 40 days, and, with the reserve represented by the dogs themselves, could be made to last 50. At a little after midnight of April 1, after a few hours of sound sleep, I hit the trail, leaving the others to break up camp and follow. As I climbed the pressure ridge back of our igloos I set another holtt in my belt, t^ie third since I started. Every man nhd dog of us was lean and flat bellied as a board and as hard. Fine Morning for Start. It was a fine morning. The wind of the last two days had subsided, and the going was the best and most equable of any I had had yet. The floes were large and old, and clear, and were sur­ rounded by pressure ridges, some of Which were almost stupendous. The biggest of them, however, were easily negotiated, either through soms crevice or up some huge brink. I set a good pace for about ten hours. Twenty-five miles took me well be­ yond the eighty-eighth parallel. While I was building my Igloos a long lead forward by the east and southwest of us at a distance of & few miles. Few Handicaps Are Faced. A few hours' sleep and we were on the trail again. As the going was now practicality horizontal, we were un­ hampered and could travel as long as we pleased and sleep as little as ws wished. The weather was fine and the going like that of the previous day, except at the' beginning,' when pickaxes were required. This and a brief stop at an­ other lead cut down our distance. But we had made 2v miles in ten hours and were halt' way to the eighty-ninth parallel. The ice was grinding audibly In every direction, but no motion was visible. Evidently it was settling back into equilibrium and probably sagging due northward with its release from the Wind pressure. Going Improves on Way. Again there was a few hours' sleep and we hit the trail before midnight. The weather and golnj were even bet ter. The surface, except as interrupted by infrequent ridges*, vas as level as the glacial fringe from K«>cla to Colum bia. and harder. We ^marched something over ten hours, the dogs being often on the trot, and made 20 miles. Near ttve end of the march we rushed across a lead 100 yards wide, which buckled umlef- our sledges and finally broke as the last sledge left it. We stopped In sight of the eighty- ninth parallel In a temperature of 46 degrees below. Again a scant sleep » ' • » ' _ and 'wei'e on our Way orice "more and across the eighty-ninth parallel. This march duplicated the previous one as to weather and going. The last few hours it was on young ice and oc­ casionally the dogs were galloping. We made twenty-five miles or more, the air, the sky, and the bitter wind burnmg- the face till it cracked. It was like the great interior ice ^ap of Greenland. Even the natives com­ plained of the bitter air. It was as keen,as frozen steel. A little longer sleep than the previ­ ous one had to be taken here, as we were ail in need of it, Then on again. Up to this time, with each successive march, our fear of an impassable lead had increased. At every inequality of the ice I found myself hurrying breath­ lessly forward,, tearing that it marked a lead, and when I arrived at the summit would catch my breath with relief--only to find myself hurrying on in the same way at the next one. But on this march, by some strange shift of feeling, this fear fell from me completely. The weather was thick, but it gave me no uneasiness. :• Before 1 turned in I took an observa­ tion which indicated our position as 89 degrees 25 minutes. A dense, lifeless pall hung overhead. The horizon was black and the ice be­ neath was a ghastly, chalky white, with no relief--a striking contrast to the glim­ mering, sunlit fields of It oyer which we had been traveling for the previous four days. 1 Rise in Temperature Aids. The going was even better, and there was scarcely any snow on the hard, granular, last surymer's surface of the old lloes, dotted with the sapphire ice of the previoo.1 summer's lakes. A rise in temper* ture to 15 degrees be­ low reduced the f.-iction of the sledges and gave the dogs the appearance of having caught the spirits of the party. The more sprightlj* ones, as they went along with tightly curled tails, frequent­ ly tossed their heads, with short, sharp barks and yelps. In 12 hours we £ad made 40 miles. There was no sigst of a lead in the march. Pole Reached at Last. I had now made my five marches, and was In time for a hasty noon observation through a temporary break in the clouds, which indicated our position as 89.57. I quoto an entry from my journal some hours later: The pole at last. The prize of three centuries, my drear.i and goal for, 20 years, mine at last. I cannot bring my­ self to realize It. It all seems so single and common­ place. As Bartlett aaid when turning back, when speaking of his being In these exclusive region*, which no mortal has ever penetrated l>fore: "It Is just Kke every day." Of course I had ir.v sensations that made sleep Impossible ior hours, despite my utter fatigue--the sjj'isatlons of a life­ time; but I have no rojm for them here. The first 30 hours u> the pole were spent in taking observations; In going some ten miles beyond our camp and some eight miles to the right of it; in taking photographs, planting my flags, depositing my records, studying the hori­ zon with my telescope >lor possible land, and searching for a' practicable place to make a soundlnc. Ten hours after our arrival the clouds cleared before a light breeze from our left and from that time until our depar­ ture in the afternoon of April 7 the weather was cloudless and flawless. The minimum temperature during the 30 hours was 33 below, the maximum 12. We had reached the goal, but the re­ turn was still before us. It was essential that we reach the land before the next spring tide, and we must strain every nerve to do this. I had a brief talk with my men, From now on It was to be a big travel, little sleep and a hustle every minute; We would try, I told them, to double march on the return--that is, to start and cover one of - our northward marches, make tea and eat our luncheon In the Igloos, then cover another march, eat and sleep a few hours, and repeat this daily. Double Speed on Return. As a matter of fact, we nearly did this, covering regularly on our return journey five outward marches In three return marches. Just as long as we could hold the trail we could double (Our speed, and we need waste no time in building new igloos every day, so that the time we gained on the return lessened the chances of a gale destroying the track. Just above the eighty-seventh paral­ lel was a region some fifty miles wide Which caused me considerable uneasi­ ness. Twelve hours of strong easterly, westerly, or northerly wind would make this region an open sea. In the afternoon of the 7th we start- < ed on our return, having double fed the dogs, repaired the sledges for the last time, and discarded all our spare clothing to lighten the loads. Sea 1,500 Fathoms Deep. -vFive miles from the pole a narrow crack filled with recent ice. through which we were able to work a hole with a pickax, enabled me to make a sounding. All my wire, 1,500 fathoms, was sent down, but there was no bot­ tom. In pulling up the wire parted a few iaihoitis frorn the Surface and lead and wire went to the bottom. Off went reel and handle, lightening the sledges still further. We had no more use for them now. Three marches, brought us back to the igloos where the captain turned back. The last march was In the wild sweep of a northerly gale, with drift­ ing snow and the ice rocking under as we dashed over it. Little Trouble in Leads. South of where Marvin had turned back we came to where his party had built several igloos while delayed by, open leads. 8tlll further south we found where the captain had been held up by an open lead and obliged to camp. Fortunately the movement of these leads was simply open and shut, and it took considerable water motion to fault the trail seriously. While the captain, Marvin, and as I found later, Borup. had been delayed by open leads, we seemed to bear a charm and with no single lead were we delayed more than a couple of hours. Sometimes the ice was fast and firm enough to carry us across; sometimes a short detour, sometimes a brief halt for the lead to close, sometimes an Im­ provised ferry on an ice cake, kept the trail without difficulty down to the tenth outward march. First Handicap on Return. Igloos there disappeared completely and the entire region was unrecognis­ able. Where on the outward journey had been narrow cracks, there were now broad leads, one of them over five miles in width, caught over with young Ice. Here again fortune favored us, and no pronounced movement of the Ice having taken place since the captain passed, we had his trail to follow. We picked up the old trail again north of the seventh Igloos, followed It beyond the fifth, and at the big lead lost it finally. Eskimos Wild with Joy. From here we followed the captain's trail, and on April 21 our -sledges passed up the vertical edge of the glacier fringe, a little west of Cap* Columbia. * When the last sledge came up 1 thought my Eskimos had gone crazy. They yelled and called and danced themselves helpless. As Ootah sat down on his sledge he remarked, in Eskimo: "The devil is asleep or having trouble with his wife, or we nev*r should haV* come back so easily." A few hburs later we arrived at Crane City, under the bluffs of Cape Columbia, and, after putting {our pounds of pemmlcan Into each of the faithful dogs to keep them quiet wa bad, at last, our chance to slejep. Sleep Finally in Safety. fit ever shall I forget that sleep at Cape Columbia. It was sleep, sleep, then turn over and sleep again. We slept glorious­ ly, with never a thought of the morrow or having to walk and, too, with no thought that there was to be never a night more of blinding headache. Cold water to a parched throat Is noth­ ing compared with sleep to a numbed, fatigued brain and body. * Two days we spent here In sleeping and drying our clothes Then for the ship. Our dogs, like ourselves, had not been hungry when we arrived, but simply life­ less with fatigue. They were different animals now, and the better ones among them swept' on with tightly juried tails and uplifted heads ands,,their hind legs treading the snow with pfktonlike regu­ larity. , Shocked by Marvin's Death. We rcached Hecla in one march and the Roosevelt In another. When we got to the Roosevelt I was staggered by the news of the fatal mishap to Marvin. He had either been less cautious or less fortunate than the rest of us, and his death emphasized the risk to which we all had been subjected, for there was not one of us but had been in the sledge at some time during the Journey. The big lead, cheated of Its prey three years before, had at last gained its hu­ man victim. The rest can be told quickly. McMillan and Borup had started for the Green­ land coast to deposit caches for me. Be­ fore I arrived $ flying Eskimo courier from me overtook them with instructions that the caches were no longer needed and they were to concentrate their ener­ gies on the Ideal observations, etc.. at Cape Morris K. Jesup and north from there. Return on Roosevelt Begins. These instructions were carried out and after their return in the latter part of May McMillan made some further tidal observations at other points. The sup­ plies remaining at the various caches were brought in and on July 18* the Roosevelt left Its winter quarters and was driven out Into the channel back of Cape Nion. It fought Its way south In the center of the channel and passed Cape Sabine on August 8, or 33 days earlier than In 1908, and 32 days earlier than the British expedition In 187C. We picked up Whitney and his party and stores at Etali. We killed seventy- odd walrus for my Eskimos, whom I landed at their homes. We met the Jeanie off Saunders island and took over Its coal and cleared from Cape York on August 26, one month earlier than in 1905. Message Sent to World. %•, On September 5 we arrived at Indian Harbor, whence the message, "Stars and stripes nailed to north pole," was sent vibrating southward through the crisp Labrador air. The culmination of long experience, DON'T UKE TO PAINT MEN Miniaturists Declare Th«y Arc Tio Coarse and Harsh to Be Good Subjects. ' Perhapa woman suffragist* ddi't need to be cheered up & bit, but' if they do they may find a note of glad­ ness in the fact that there is another class of persons besides themselves who have no use for a man. They are miniature painters. "Can't you paint a man In minia­ ture ?" said the visitor, who had been looking at dozens of dainty feminine likenesses which reposed In a cab- . uncontaminated by association f | with a single man. "We can," said the artist, "and we do, occasionally, but we don't want to. Men don't look well in minia­ tures. They are too harsh, too coarse. If a miniature is going to be a real work of art it must have for Its subject something dainty, flulty. and lacy. There is nothing very fluf­ fy or lacy about a man's stiff linen col­ lar, his unsightly lapels, his straight, short hair. In the days when men wore satin coats and powdered curls, miniature painters might have been able to work them up into a pleasing picture, but you don't meet many men nowadays who wear satin coats and powdered curls. t)f course. If ft man dressed in the ugly modern cos­ tume wishes to be painted in minia­ ture no artist is going to refuse the commission, but she certainly UrijB * not approve «f his taste." ? c: / * FERTILE FARMS FOR THOUSANDS AT THE OPENING OF THE STAND­ ING ROCK AND CHEYENNE RIVER INDIAN RESERVA­ TIONS. . 5 . Registration at Mobridgs, Lemmon or Aberdeen, S. D., October 4 to 23. The opening of the Standing Rock and Cheyenne River Indian Reservations in couth Dakota and North Dakota in Oc­ tober will give thousands of people 188 Seres of fertile farming lands for a small sum per acre. If you intend to engage in, farming or are now farmifig and wisn to change your location, why not register for one of these farms? It costs nothing to register. Aberdeen, South Dakota, on the Chto*. «ro, !lllihrunb«r «& St. Paul Hallway, and Mobridge and Lemmon, South Da­ kota, on the ChfcRB'o, Mllwaalcee A Pugret Sound Railway, are points of registration. You can register any day from October 4 to 23. The drawing will take place at Aberdeen on October 26, This land opening will also give you a' splendid opportunity to see the wonderful country opened through the construction of the new line to the Pacific Coast, at small additional cost over your railroad fare to points of registration. Folders regarding this land opening and the country along the new line in South Dakota, North Dakota and Montana, free. JF. A. Miller, General Passefiger Agent, •Chicago, Milwaukee •& JSt. Paul Ry, Chicago, Illinois. True Thrift. ' ••When visiting a certain toWn in the Midlands," says a medical man, "I was told of an extraordinary incident thorough knowledge of: thei conditionsi of j wjjerein the mfritt figure, an econom- the problem gained in the last expedition ... .. , f. , j . . _ -these, together with a new type of j »cal housewife, exhibited, under trying sledge which reduced the work of both J circumstances, a trait quite character- dogs and driver, and a new type of camp : jgtic of her. It seems that she had by cooler wfiich added to the comfort and increased the hours of sle«;p of members or the party, combined to make the mistake taken a quantity of poison-- ! mercurial poison--the antidote for the present expedition an agreeable im­ provement upon the last in respect to the rapidity and effectiveness of its work and the lessened discomfort and strplji^ppop the members of the party. Praise for His Aids. As to the personnel, I hav.s .again been particularly fortunate. Capr. Bartlett Is just Bartlett--tireless, Bleeplsss, enthusi­ astic, whether on the bridge or In the crow's nest or at the head of a sledge division in the field. Dr. Goodsell. the surgeon of the expe- The old Greeks and Romans were dition, not only looked aft<jr its health , great admirers of health and strength; and his own specialty of microscopes but ! . . . . ctatnarv made the took his full share of the J-eld work of pictures and statuary maae the expedition as well, ana was always which, as all should know, comprises the whites of eggs. When this antfc dote was being administered, the order (for which the unfortunate lady had overheard, she managed to murmur, al­ though almost unconscious. "Mary, Mary! Save the yolks for the pud­ dings!"--Tit-Bits. Why We Are Stronger. ready for any work- Profs. Marvin and McMillan have se­ cured a mass of scientific (lata, having made all the. tidal and most of the field work, and their services were Invaluable In every way. Borup Valuable in Many Ways. Borup not only made the fecord as to the distance traveled durlfc^ the. Jour-, ney, but to his asistance ant/ his expert knowledge of photography .s due what I believe to be the unequal-jd series of photographs taken bv the •axpeditlah. Henson in the fl'.'ld ami Percy *s steward were the same as ^ver, inval­ uable In t|ielr respective Hues. Chief iStijg'ineer Wardwjjl. also of the last expedition, atded by his -as­ sistant, Scott, kept the machinery up to a high state of efficiency and has givWn the Roosevelt the fo^-ve and'pow­ er which enabled it to negotiate appar­ ently impracticable Ice. Mr. Gushue, - the mate, whQ was In charge of the Roosevelt during the ab­ sence of Capt. Bartlett and rtfyself. and Boatswain Murphy, who was put in charge of the station at Etah for the relief of Cook, were both trustworthy and reliable men. and I count nlyself fortunate in having ht^d them in my servifce- - * Members of Crew Lauded. The members of the crew and tfi® firemen were a distinct improvement over those of our last expedition. Every one of them was willing and anxious to be of service In every possible way. Connors, who was promoted to be bos'n In the absence of Murphy, proved to be practically effective. Barnes, seaman, and Wiseman and Joyce, firemen, not only assisted Mar­ vin and McMillan in their tidal and meteorological observations on the Roosevelt, but Wiseman and Barnes went into the field with them on tbelr trips to Cape Columbia, and Condon and Cody covered 1.000 miles hunting and sledging supplies. Supplies Left for Eskimos. As for my faithful Eskimos, I have left them with ample supplies of dark, rich walrus meat and blubber for their winter, with currants, sugar, biscuits, guns, rifles, ammunition, knives, hatch­ ets. traps, etc. For the splendid four who stood be­ side me at the pole a boat and tent each to requite them tor their energy and the hardship and toll they under­ went to help their friend Peary to the north pole. But all of this--the dearly bought years of experience, the magnificent strength of the Roosevelt, the splen­ did energy and enthusiasm of my party, the loyal faithfulness of my Eskimos --could have gone for naught but for the faithful necessaries of war fur­ nished so loyally by the members and friends of the Peary Arctic club. Thanks to Dead Friend. And it is no detraction from the liv­ ing to say that to no single individual has the fine result been more bignally due than to my friend, the late Morris lv. Jesup, the first president of the club. Their assistance has enabled me to tell the last o.' the great earth storise, the story the world has been waiting to hear for 300 years--the story of the 4fc»on»ery of the north pole. ROBERT E. PEARY. tM/ ^ • • v i iiiiiiiwiiissjwiiiijj i«i mmm muscles of the mien stand out lite , cords. As a matter of fact we have ath­ letes and strong men--men fed on fine strength making food such as Quaker Oats--that would win in any contest with the old Roman or Greek thaulplOSu. It's p, matter of food. The finest food lor making strength of bone, muscle iiuil nerte is fine s oatmeal. Quaker Oats is the best because it is pure, no husks or stems or black specks. Farm­ ers' wives are finding that by feeding the farm hands plentifully on Quaker Oats they get the best results in work and economy. If you are convenient to the store, buy the regular siase pack­ ages; .if no* near the store buy the large size family package. 2 The Doctors* Orders. A lady whose husband seemed to be doing little but lie in the hammock and eat apples, was asked by a sym­ pathetic neighbor what the trouble with him-was. "Doctors," she replied, sa41y. "jMo, he hasa't pome^into a for­ tune." A writer in x'o-Day's Magazine (ells the story. ' "You see," explained the wife, "he's been having some sort of matter with hla stomach, and he consulted two dif­ ferent doctors about it. One told him to eat a ripe apple every hour, and the other said to rest an hour after eating. 8o he's trying to do both." LOW. COLONIST FARES TO THi WIST AND NORTHWEST. ttoftra Pacific Passenger Depart­ ment announces that Colonist Pares will be in effect from Sept. 15 to Oct 15, 1909, to all points in the West said Northwest. ' This year the West looks moos, promising than ever. Now Is the time to secure land at low prices, and. at/ the same time, to visit the many inter­ esting points in the West and North­ west, at which liberal stopover ar­ rangements may be made. A better estimate of raw lands can be made now than formerly, because these lands are in proximity to new farms that are producing voidarfal crops. For descriptive literature, write to E. L. Lomax, G. P. A-, U. P. It. Omaha. Neb. ^ V A Sign of It. "The airship manufacturer orer the way must be making money." "Why?" "I notice he and his family MS lng very high." Many a man Is the moving of an unpaid tailor bill. Bees sometimes fly two miles from the hive an* ted w hack vlt* oat difficulty. . " Mm '7 V" *<-• V? . t v'--, .