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V0 EW tourists ever have more than a glance of a very small section of Brazil, as they travel by large steamers which only touch at the more important coast cities and they accept, without question, the volunteered advice of resi­ dent fellow-countrymen who have never traveled in the interior of the country. These speak as if from personal knowledge, though in reality false­ ly, of the difficulties, if not danger, to such travel- Though there is individuality in all cities, more striking in some than in others, vet after all, as a result of civilization, there is so marked a similarity that one soon tires of most foreign, titles. This monotony seldom extends to travel tn the interior of a country, at least not in Br&zii, which abounds in en­ chanting scenery, remark­ able plants, flowers and animals, and marvelous works of nature, giving to the traveler a new sensa­ tion at every turn. Such is the effect of a trip to the Paulo Affonso falls. To reach Paulo Affon­ so falls it Is necessary to take a coastwise vessel from Pernambuco or Ba- hia to Penedo, about 30 SO miles up the wonder­ ful San Francisco river. which is navigable, except for a short distance on both sides of the falls, for over 1,000 miles into Bra- mil, and is full of interest from mouth to source. Penedo is the second largest city in the state * "J* •y-«wKe'iSJWS/Tv V*-> -V - A,i' ^ ^ rut UL-Imsp/RWO /&IP/DS ISH leoxm'&WMt* fiH/L4 AffO/VO Pf? • >. f <i CfifiO/i OMD£%fULL &UL of Alagoas. Almost opposite Penedo is the ancient town of Villa-Nova in the state of Sergipe. The town is said to have once been an important place, bat now chiefly consists of tumble­ down houses. A large rice-hulling fac­ tory is, however, located here, also large cotton-seed and castor-oil facto­ ries and a cotton gin. The products of these factories are shipped to near­ by towns. Prom Penedo to Piranhas, the head of navigation of the lower San Fran­ cisco, or that part of the river below the falls district, one has choice of making the trip either hy small double- decked light-draft stern-wheel steamer, which makes a round trip once a week, or by a locally built native sailboat called "canoa." Canoa is Portuguese (the language of Brazil) for canoe, which it resembles in outline, but dif­ fers therefrom in having in the forward third a peculiarly shaped palm-leaf-thatched cabin with dovecot-like windows painted a dark color, con­ trasting with the other woodwork. Other than a shelf-like affair running around on a level with th® windows and used either as seat or bunk, as occasion warrants, the cabin has no furnishings. The rest of the boat, except an area over the rud­ der on which stands the helmsman, and the small space occupied by a built-in box lilted with sand, on which the booking is done, is utilized as cargo space and is sufficient to carry from 10 to tO horses or oxen, packed crosswise like sardines. The sixe and character of the boat does not appeal to our idea of a canoe. Such a boat, with its crew of two men, can be chartered at a rea­ sonable figure, while frequently a passage can be arranged for at a reduction on steamer rates. Whether to take steamer or canoa is difficult to advise; that would depend upon the tempera­ ment of the traveler,cthe company and the circum­ stances. In the various trips of the writer, steam­ er or canoa has been used. In accord with mood or necessity. As to time, one method is about as quick as the other, each consuming two days in going the 150 miles and like time in returning. The steamer remains at Pfitenhas but one day, so that, unless it is desired to consume a week in the neighborhood of the falls, the canoa offers the only quick return to Penedo. On the steamer meals are procurable, while on the canoa pro­ visions must be supplied by thq voyager or ar­ ranged for with the captain. In either case it is wise to take some prepared food, as the cooks , make chiefly native dishes, which require an edu­ cated palate for appreciation. Whether by steam­ er or canoa, unless mosquito pruuf, one must of necessity have a mosquito bar; a hammock or cas>p bed is a wise provision. In the daytime mosquitoes are not troublesome, but with the settina of the sun, when the boats usually tie up for tA« night, they become excessively annoy­ ing. Voyage by canoa is bcth romantic and thrill- lug. Every day, commencing at ten o'clock, off Penedo, a stiff breeze arises apd blows upstream irith such force that the canoas, with their large Balls spread, resembling at a distance huge bats, Mem to fly upstream, frequently with such speed aa to overtake and pass the steamer, which has 19ft some time before. The river is practically Straight, and the farther up one goes the more O#5or of Mi fbvi-o /fr*v//J0 D/ir*/cr it is hemmed in by the hills along Its banks, so that the canoa has the full b e n e f i t o f t h e breeze, which fol­ lows the turns of the river. Between Pene­ do and Piranhas there are several towns of impor­ tance, the chief of which are Propria and Gararu, in the state of Sergipe, and S'. Braz, Traipu and Pao d'Assucar, in the state of Alagoas. All of these places are of sufficient interest to warrant short stops. They are the rivor ports of large sections In which cotton, beans, corn, rice and cattle are raised in large quantities. Rice is chiefly raised along the river itself and in ponds formeid adjacent thereto when the river Is in freshet. j C'J Pao d'Assucar is so called because of a large hill on the river front which resembles a sugar loaf, but, unfortunately for the town, it acts as a barrier to the wind and causes the sand to bt thrown up in such quantities that the portion of the town adjacent thereto has to be periodically excavated. Piranhas is a picturesque village built in ter­ races around the curve of a practically barren hill. At this port one hears much of the "piran­ has," or scissors fish, a terror along the whole San Francisco river, though said to be in greater numbers here than elsewhere. This fish has a peculiar shaped head with serrated teeth bent backward. It is of carnivorous ptopensities, fre- Tsfjt. OiJ/iY /9TP£t/£.£>0 principal stages of the river and notes that the cataract itself does not change much in form as a result of vol­ ume of water. However, when the river is in freshet additional cataracts are formed by the water pass­ ing through the ravines, which at other times are dry, and leaping over the high c«fT direct into the lower whirlpool. The rap­ ids, on th«Kcontrary, are ma­ terially changed by any de­ viation in the volume of wa­ ter and, were they approach­ able when the river is high, they would doubtless be devoid Of the great beauty which characterizes them at other pe­ riods. The ideal time to visit the falls is Just after the river has fallen sufficiently to allow one to cross the numerous rocky ravines through which, w^ien the river is high, water is rushing, preventing a near approach to the true river bed and the falls. Soon after the freshet, which is from November to March, the grass springs up and the plants burst into bloom. Gaudy col­ ors then predominate, from the deep yellow of the trumpet flower, the reds and blues of other plants, the beautiful pink riower or the "cebolla brava," which, when eaten cause the death of so many animals, to the black seed pod of the "blackwood" bush and the exquisite white bloom of the "cereus" which pops open at night, exhaling its delicate but penetrating odor. After a few weeks the dry season sets in. The grass and ephemeral flowering plants are then scorched by the sun, leaving only a few hardy bushes and the cacti. Consisting as it does of a succession of rapids ending in a fall, opinion differs as to which point about Paulo Affonso one should first visit. To the writer the most beautiful and awe-inspiring portion is the rapids. One in viewing them realizes the truth of the words of a noted ' traveler, that "if Niagara be the monarch of Cataracts, Paulo Af­ fonso is assuredly the king of rapids." Either as rapids or falls, it stands unique. It has none of the artificial sur­ roundings of Niagara, nei­ ther parks, houses, nor work of man. Instead, it remains unadorned, as it has been for centuries, with its almost barren banks standing like walls and more resembling cast iron than, as thsy are in reality, rock painted black by the lion and man­ ganese held .In solution by the water whan the river is In freshet. Living near the falls are a few men who, know­ ing the most accessible footpaths to the various points of Interest, will act as guides for a small fee. However, they are not obtrusive or Insistent in proffering their services: on the contrary, one has to make inquiry to find them. The falls are slightly crescentric in form. The main body of water rushes down the steep incline of the last rapids to the jAai da Cachoeira, where it burls itself with great momentum against a steep black wall directly In front of it, rebounds, swish­ ing, swirling, churning and foaming, only to be pushed over the abyss, at a right angle to its orig­ inal cqur.se, by the dancing, foaming waters of the Anglqulnho before the water can recover its nat­ ural appearance. The width of the river at this point is about 60 feet, find the depth of the water at the base of the falls is given as 86 feet The river then rushes straight on for a few hundred feet, only to be hurled back by a rock wall 300 feet high, forming the lower whirlpool, from which it finally escapes at a right angle and passes for some miles through a narrow forge. The guide next leads one to the river above, where, hemmed In by low banks of black rock, It is broad and quiet, with nothing to suggest the tur­ bulent waters Just left. Continuing upstream, one sees numerous islands, mere rocks projecting quently attacking and biting pieces out of ani- * monuments from the water, and notes that al- mals which go down to the river to drink. Even men are said to have been victims to it. From Piranhas there is a railroad to Jatoba, 71 miles distant, where navigation for the upper San Francisco is resumed. A little more than half way to Jatoba is the Falls Station, a deso­ late place with only a closed utation house sur­ rounded by a thicket, travel to the falls being toe light to warrant even a caretaker. It is best, therefore, to stop at Pedras, a small village reached just before the station. Here guides, horses and food can be procured for the rest of the Journey, which will take from two to three hours' riding. The ride to the falls Is best made very early in the morning, otherwise the heat is so intense that the trip would not be enjoyable. The road is irequently through dense thickets in which are found oncas (felix concolor), small wild cats, dew, prea (cavea aperea) a ratlike animal hunted by the natives, wild hog (dicotyles), several vari­ eties of small monkeys and birds. Here par- rotn, paroquets, wild pigeons and doves occur in flockB. In the dry season snakes, particularly rattlesnakes, are seen in great numbers, doubt­ less due to the drying up of the short, stiff grass, which renders them more visible. Paulo A^onso seems to have moods, its ap­ pearance markedly differing with the seasons, or, more properly speaking, with the volume of wa­ ter in the river, which is dependent upon season. The writer has made the trip there at the three" ready the water has commenced to hurry. A short distance below the river makes Its first leap of 30 feet. This is followed by the "Vai-vem de Cima" (upper come and go), a miniature whirl­ pool, where the water ebbs and flows at oft-repeat­ ed Intervals. Farther on, the rock banks of the river approach each other and through clefts in the rock the river is compressed into five narrow branches, four of which Immediately start their descent by tumbling 15 or 20 feet and. becoming a mass of seething foam, rushes down the steep incline with a fury that almost, causes the earth to shake and with a roar that can be heard for miles, thus forming the soul-inspiring rapids. According to the guide, the trip to Paulo Affon­ so would not be complete without a visit to what he styles the wonderful "Furna do Morcego" (bats' cave). To see this one is Induced to climb, crawl, and, if not very careful, fall down fhe zigzag path leading to the edge of the lower whirlpool where, after literally scrambling over the rubbish thrown up by it, one is conducted to the large gaping en­ trance to the cave. The cave Itself is disappoint­ ing. It Is nothing more than a large opening in the bjftnk, and is uninteresting unless one excepts the great number of vampire bats which inhabit It, These are very troublesome to the cattle raisers in the vicinity. From the mouth of the cave one has a good view of the whirlpool, but with thoughts of the difficult climb necessary to return it is doubtful if this side trip baa been worth the trouble. Mollycoddling English Poor. -I r I am Inclined to think that the stu- pondousnese of the problem daunts the ordiuanry thoughtful person, while Che careless is satisfied that things which are so much talked about must ba, if anything, too, much looked after. H we take a census ot middle lass householders i» any street, I th^ik we would find as the most prominent idea thjit there is too much mollycoddling jpi the poor. How many pious ejacula­ tions have 1 heard as to the modern tendency to destroy parental responsi­ bility--the destruction of what does not exist, or, if it does exist, is of a name! If we go to the dregs of the slum world--apd-it Is with such that social effort ia today most Intimately apd ardently concerned--we find the recognition on the part of even the most debased mother that her chil­ dren must have food of some sort. To get it she, like most people, takes the line of least resistance--the line she has been acquainted with from her own babyhood--beggary or crime, it Is as far as her sense of parental re­ sponsibility can take her. And yet It is fear of destroying this non-ex­ istent or perverted quality which, I have been assured, has made the blg- geet opopsltlon to the feeding of neces­ sitous children.--Frances in X^&don i T. P.'s Weekly. Things Will Take a Turn. "Did jou hunt lions and tigers when you were In Africa?" asked the friend. "No, we didn't have to," replied Lord Shortbow. "The bloomin' beasts hunt­ ed us, doncher know." Price No Object. Dog Fancier--What kind of a dog would you prefer, madam? Mrs. Nurlcb-K-Oh, I don' ^nov. Sup* pose you sbuw me one of those ocean greyhounds CHERCHEZ LA FEMME. When you see a bashful lover Blushing crimson in the face, Every time he takes his watch out, ,"There's a woman in the case." --Harvard Lampoon. And if that same lover marries, And quite rapid is the pace; When he hocks that watch at "un­ cle's" Still a woman's in the case. MUCH GOVERNED. "Why do you call up at that box, my man?" "To learnf what new Jaws have been passed since I went on duty," answered the policeman.--Washing­ ton Star. IT WAS EXCUSABLE. "That druggist acted grouchy when you interrupted his compounding to buy a stamp." "What of it?" "A business man should always smile." "Oh, I don't know. You can't ex­ pect a man to be a hypocrite for the sake of a two-cent Sale."--Wash­ ington Star. / HER HOPE. "Of course, you hope to occupy a heavenly home?" "Of course," answered Mrs. De Styles. "One in some nice, restrict­ ed neighborhood, don't jou know. UNPARDONABLE. "Rude lot," declared the famous tnusirian. "Talked while I was play- Ins." "Very rude." "Yes; they weren't even talking about me."--Washington Star. ISiiS • ' >• V//A "The doctor thinks the baby looks like me." "Yes; I wanted to say so, but I •was afraid you'd be offended."--New York Telegram. THE TRtJTH OF IT. "They say that women always read the last chapter of a novel first." "It isn't so. I always read the first Chapiter first." "And then?" "Then I read the last chapter.1'-- Washington Star. ALWAYS A WAY. ( "Do you think a girl of your ex­ pensive habits could manage on my small salary?" "Why, certainly, dear. I'll have toy French maid learn how to cook." --Washington Star. TOOK HIM LITERALLY. Salesman--I can recommend this novel, madam. I've read it myself. Customer--Oh, have you? Then as it's a secondhand bpok you ought to sell it cheaper.--B6ston Transcript. TOOK STEPS TO STOP IT. Judge--Well, what's the next case? Clerk of {the Court--Man arrested for ogling women on the street, your honor. > j Judge--Sort of a stare case, eh!/- Boston Transcript. PREPOSTEROUS. Willie, I s*y, ma, if Dad was to die, would He go to heaven? Ma--Hush, Willie! Who's been putting such ridiculous thoughts into your head!--London Opinion. MODERNIZED. Auntie--Back ffom the sewing cir- cle? I suppose you are making a crazy quilt for poor old Ladv Jones? Gwendolyn--Not much. Each girl brought a piece of a busted auto, and we are going to have them put together into a new machine for poor divorced Mrs. Uppish.--Puck. WHAT STRUCK HIM? Subbubs--What struck you most forcibly about your visit to the city, Uncle Hi? Uncle HI--Wall, when I cum to the the hospital I couldn't remember whether it was a trolley car or one of them automobiles--Philadelphia Record. THE IMPROVEMENT. "I say, wasn't that violin solo Mf- niflcent ?" "Rather. I was Just thinking how lovely It would sound on the gramo- phone."--Fllegende Blatter. ALREADY TESTED. Tenant--I bear you have a letter for me. Just give it me, will you? Concierge--All right, ma'am, but I warn you, you won't be able to make much out of It. None of the servants nor my wife nor myself ran read it A RARE STGHT THESE DAYS. Fuddy--1 saw an excellent article on milk this morning. Duddy--What was oreamt-* Boston Transcript. " ^ BYMPATttY LETTERS OR JMU5W ' ERS. Procrastination in expressing sym­ pathy to a bereaved family is the height of bad formi Therefore, the instant a death ia lenown the be­ reavement should be acknowledged. To send flowers is always desirable and .may be done even in the case of a formal acquaintance, but It Is an expense that is not necessary. If flowers are sent they may accom­ pany the note of sympathy, but no reference must be made to them in the note. If the box is sent without a letter a visiting card accompanies It. When the recipient is a formal acquaintance a note may be omitted, "Sincere sympathy" being written on the card. When the person bereaved is known only slightly and flowers are omitted a visiting card may be either mailed or left at the dooiv In either case "Sympathy" or something sim­ ilar should be written on the card. When it is left in person the indi­ vidual for whom it is intended is not asked for, ic being understood ihat those in deep mourning are not able to receive any but the immediate . family. To intimate friends flowers may be sent as soon as news of death in the family is known, and more may go on the day of the funeral unless the family expresses a wish that they shall be omitted from the casket. When the latter is the case it is the height of bad form to send flowers; a note alone is sufficient. Brief and formal should be the communication, exrept when the be- reavem<»,r\t is in the fntnily of inti­ mate friends. In such a case a per­ son expresses precisely the regret a^d sympathy shp'or he feels, and the note is a written outpouring of what one would say. Formal ac­ quaintances may not assume such familiarity, even dfd they wish, and a note from an acquaintance may read: My Dear Mrs. Andrews; I cannot refrain from expressing sincere svmpatfcy from Mr. Peters and myself on the affliction which has befallen you. One feels the in­ adequacy of words at such a time, yet believe me it is not through lack of understanding of your great sor- row. ft there is anything we can do we •would regard it as a privilege. Most cordially, MARY MOORE PETERS. It is expected that all ̂ notes and fards of svmpathv shall be acknowl­ edged. When the acquaintance Is large it is customary to have a unourning card engraved, expressing thanks. When this iff\not done, notes of thanks, and cards for cards re- _ J .. _A \ *... ~ J* CtlVCU, 1UUBI UC IOIU1UCU. Schuyler, in the New gram. 'iiueaui York Tele- GREEN FOODS AND PLENTY OF WATER. "Eat plenty of fresh vegetables, drink water whether you want it or not, and substitute flsh and eggs for meat, and your complexion will re­ pay the change of diet by being fresher and of better color," declar­ ed a dietarian. Spinach, fresh beet tops and any other greens might be eaten every day with benefit to the skin, for they are filled with phosphates and other properties that act favorably on the system, by clearing the blood. This indeed, is a characteristic of all freBh green vegetables, and is one reason of the beneficial effects of green salads, such as lettuce, escar- ole, romaine, etc. Another reason salads are healthful is the nourish­ ing properties of olive oil, it being vnderstood that all uncooked greens shall be eaten with French dressing, consisting of oil, venegar, pepper and salt, with whatever savories one likes. Meat more than once a day in sum­ mer is a mistake, for it overheats the blood and is too heavy to be properly assimilated, except in cold weather, when vitality Is depleted. There are physicians who do not per­ mit certain persons to eat itny red meatB, by which are meant beef and mutton. Veal, lamb, fish and eggs are nourishing and poultry is highly desirable in summer. Tomatoes #nd strawberries ape specially good for all who can pest them. There are some persons who are poisoned by them, owing to the acids contained. These same acjds are beneficial to systems with which they agree. . Rhubarb is a fruit .that should be eaten d»Mv, and Is also wholesome for children. The great benefit derived from water is entirely through the fact of its being stimulating to the Intes­ tines as well as carrying off Jmpurl- tles that otherwise would- remain to make their way out through the skin. More than one serious case of facial pimples might be cured if three pints of water were drunk dailv. not •with the meals, but between th#»m. Liquid with food dilutes the gastric juices and renders food less nour­ ishing. Taken half an hour after meals or not later than half an hour before It does not Interfere with di­ gestion and can onlv be beneficial.-- Msrsraret Mixter, in the New York Telegram. AN EVASTVE ANSWER. The art of giving an evasive an­ swer is not easily acquired bv .wom­ en who are perfectly truthful, and such an answer is just as distasteful to their sense of honor as an actual He would be. Still, they all have to learn thlt> art sooner or later in their career, if they would be at peace with their world. Perfect truth may be spoken to the 'world at large, but not so tq one's own friends, for it Is. the friends who ask the very personal questions that re­ quire the evasion. Just why some people imagine that the affairs of their friends ought to be an open book to them is a Question still vwaitfng an answer, t>i ̂ in every little toterie there are several- con­ stant interrogators, and they are the very ones who would most resent a question from which there could be no escape save by ttye course - men­ tioned.--New York Tribune. , THE' LAND OF OLD AGE. This is one of the bitterest things we mothers have to bear when we get old. We have learned then that we can't help our children to lead their lives one bit better. There is not one single little stone we can clear from before their feet, be our old fingers ever so willing. With yearning hearts we see them making the mistakes we could teach them to avoid if only they would listen. We see them going through one experience after another, stumbling here, again hurting themselves against the same corner you hurt yourself so long age, repeating all the world-worn mistakes, while we elders watch anxiously and may not even crv out. "Take care." Our sons repeat the follies of their fathers; our daughters make over again all the mistakes of their moth­ ers. It is very hard to sit in silence when you see them doing all the things that you, did and then so pain­ fully learned better. We watch our children lose them­ selves in the tangles whose miser­ ies we know so well and see them at last, after long years of Wandering, find their way back home heartsore and worn. That, to us older moth­ ers, is the heartrending part of it. --An Elderly Woman, in Hater's Bazar. WOMEN AS STREET CLEANERS. Half ,a hundred women, the mi- jority garbed in long gingham aprons and) wearing tight fitting dust caps, but a number dressed in overalls be­ longing to their husbands or broth' ers, made the dust fly upon the high­ ways of the 5th Ward, at Chester, Pa., when they turned out in squads of fives and sixes tb clean the streets which have long been neglected by the city. They made a good job of it. "Judge" Rhoades ^(id his wife, a bride of three months, headed the street cleaning brigade, and, going from jjquad to squad, encouraged the workers, while they gave ready aid wherever it was seen that a willing though frail womari was not equal to the task of wielding her broom. To­ night the ward is the cleanest spot in the city, and those* who are re­ sponsible for its cleanliness say they are going to repeat the operation at stated periods unless the men whom the taxpayers hire to do the work get "on the job" and do their duty. Kavi' V nrlr Tri Kur» a SHE'S HAUNTED BY MICROBES. This is getting to be a hard world for the easily scared woman (and man, also) to live in. Mental misery lies in dwelling on the tales of im­ pure foods, but the state of affairs goes farther than that. A young wom­ an who lives in a studio so attrac­ tive and artistic thaty-one would think she must always be happy was found by a friend in a deeply mournful mood. "There's £o comfort left in life," said she. "f gave up reading the newspapers because I was getting so that I did not want to eat any­ thing. I had read about so many foods being adulterated. That was bad enough, but now a friend has been here and told me my cozy cor­ ner, cushions and hangings were the best hiding places In the world for microbe. Now my comfort has gone. ^ I give up all these things I shall be very uncomfortable, and if I don't give them up, why, I'll "be just as uncomfortable whenever I sit on one of my divans and think what microbes may be hidden in if." --New York' Press. , CHANGES IN SPEECH. Many old English words have fallen from their high estate and are now banned in the best society, at any rate in Mayfair and Belgravia. Of these is the Saxon word "lady," which we are told is derived from "loaf- giver." In 1910 we speak of a "worn an" and the word "lady" has become almost a term of reproach. A young single woman is a girl--pronounced "gyril"--as the name "young lady" is reserved for barmaids, shop hands and telephone operators. Then the word "dress" used to describe the outer garments of <Jur mothers and grand­ mothers, but "gowns" and "frocks" are worn bv women of the twentieth century. Also we may talk of "rela­ tions," but not of "relatives;" and the most venerable rooster must be call­ ed a "chicken," as the word "fowl" has sunk almost to the level of tow language.--Queen Magaxine. I SAFE FOR WOMEN TO TRAVEL ALONE. Women need not worry about the discomforts that used to attend soli­ tary trips of aliy length on the rail­ roads. Many of the long distance trains carry maids ss well as porters, and women may feel assured of protection and of every attention to their comforts as well. There is no reason why a woman, if the neces­ sity arise, should not travel alone from coast to coast, assured of ab­ solute freedom from annoyance, and many of them, as a matter of fact, do so.--New Yocfc "Tribune. SHE COULD, BUT SHE WOULDN'T. Miss Johnston, an American girl, fair and twenty-five, was traveling in Germany with an elderly friend. On0 day in Berlin the two ladies had boarded a sightseeing car and were just comfortably seated when an Eng­ lishman of a pronounced sporting typo got in and sat down beside the youngs er lady. . After staring at her in al­ ienee for aome time he inquired in­ sinuatingly ; "Do you speak English, Miss?" "Yes," replied Miss Johnston, wltfc* out turning her head, "I do. but X. don't care to."--New York Times. • >