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, . - RQM Antwerp to Rotterdam 1b less than three hours by the rail*, but on the little steamer which crawls through the creeks, canals and lakes of Zee land it is a full day. Come, steep yourself in sober lux- ury in an atlnosphere of self-respect and mudh peace and dampness. The steamer starts in the cold half dawn with all the Antwerp stretch of river lights burning an orange yellow. After two hours of tonic shivering yOu see the sun acroes a flat and fertile land, a big red sun which you may look at without blinking There is a mighty river flowing full and broad be­ tween low banks with scattered trees. You glide into canals lined to the water's edge with grass and buttercups, enlivened with groups of fishers in trou­ sers of the strangest cuts, who stand chatting with the keepers of the locks and drinking healths In Schnapps. V The trousers are bloomers, not unlike the knick* tin of the fair whew fuli built (speaking of the knickers), and they wear round knit caps of vivid green. Others, more sober, wear bomb-shaped cas~ quettes of orange velvet embroidered with black Sflk. li vmzzv'AW owai, srn&rr sir or old TC2WJ& TJUeEC.MB&ZZkBlitr* Tils eaptain promised breakfast in five min­ utes. That was an hour and twenty minutes ago. The second cabin passengers -are drinking gin. The captain says the breakfast only waits for •ome cow to be milked near a lock. The boat is still in a canal between high banks,' which thrust on the view the ankles of the vil­ lage girls who stand along the edge and look down philosophically, knitting; for their skirts are very bell-shaped. The village girls are sll- ^ houettes against the sky. Then a one-horse gig, with yellow wheels and a green box, flits bjr mysteriously and disappears tyehind the ridge. And there is nothing more. ^ Ah, yes, it rains. The steamer crawls through the canal, lnroed- ad by the locks and dams. Here 1s another Dutch girl. She is standing on the bank above our heads as we descend, a Dutch girl in a white starched percale cap, cream-colored kerchief , crossed upon her breast, with a black bodice, a blue skirt, wooden shoes and blue stockings. The boat is in a narrow river once again, with scenery green and Clean, with sweet effects of light in this peculiar air-* milky, velvety light- near a comic opera village. More village girls, the milk and blush rose blondes of Zeeland, with their silky masses of pale golden hair, immacu­ lately clean. They look so solid, tight and tidy, do these little Dutch girls in their stiff bodices. Out in the open Ooester Skelt, three miles across, the yellow brownish watier scarcely marks Itself against the banks of yellow green, low dikes, with long, long lines of treeB, whose roots assist to hold the soil together. We hug the edge. Along the bank there coughs and snorts a dinky little ancient auto* . mobile. As it nears we see it is conducted by a pretty girl In white. She looks like a bride! The villagers run out, rejoicing. Who is she? What is it? What is he? Mystery. We steam onward. Now, there are always these long lines of trees that stand like a grim regiment to defeat the floods of the encroaching sea. It is the Verdronken Land, where thousands perished--villages and towns and all the country- side--in 1532, when a dike burst. There is a short Canal de Keeten. At a village where the captain stops to get his hair cut a fair bumboat girl sells us schnapps. Then the little steamer quits the subdivisions of the Schelde, meanders through the mazes of the Maas, comes through the Krammer and the Vol- kerak to the wide Hollandsch Diep, which has rough water and looks almost like the sea. Onoa this bay was land, but long ago, in 1421, a tidal wave wiped out a hundred iparket towns and vil­ lages. and upward Of 100,000 people perished, and the water stayed. Then soon it Is the little Dorscbe Kll. a very narrow stream (where the Prince of Orange was drowned in 1711), which takes us to the broad and lovely Merwede, a double river, where the windmills of the landscape and the busy villages proclaim the land of Holland one has read of. Now it is raining. Dort, or Dordrecht is the first fine town. It is the cleanest land! The very cows are scrubbed down with soap and rubbed dry with bath towel­ ing till they shine. The sloping stone dikes are mopped ev­ ery morning between 7 and 9 o'clock. Tiled roofs of a soft red rise like flowers amid the foliage of the trees; thatched roofs of a dove tint go slop­ ing down close to the ground as If they would slip off the cosy houses Just as t h e d o v e - c o l o r e d shawl slips off the shoulders of a Quaker girl-- if there, be any left who wear dove-colored shawls. I am thinking of Philadelphia and Penn*s Manor. • Here there are' villages that do not know the railway and their daughters do not know the modern fashions. A village girl buys one fine gown and it will last her fifteen years. Do you thing she is not just as nice beneath it? These girls spare no expense on their best gowns. They have real linen and real lace and .line silk stockings if they choose to wear them, and each girl has a gold helmet, which is worth from $90 to 9300. It begins to rain. ThiB helmet is a thin and supple Bhell of gold which snugly fits the head. Sometimes it Is scoop-shaped to let the back hair be colled in a knot, sometimes they plait their back hair in two long queues, which hang down before the ears on each side of the face; but the gold helmet must be always there, though it be only seen to Shimmer in the sunlight through the meshes of a kind of night-cap, also fitting snugly, which may be of linen or of lace, in which case it has ruffles. Each girl has her gold helmet, even those who go to service up in Rotterdam, though when they grow sophisticated, citified and shame-faced they first put on city bonnets over their gold het> mets and white nightcaps and then later on lock up their caps and helmets in their bureaus and take to smart pink cotton prints for gowns and wear coquettish ruffles of gauzy tulle on their heads, for all the world like London chamber­ maids. ,These helmets, horned on each side of the forehead with long twisted prongs of gold and dating back to when the Germanic tribes were Struggling with the Romans, are, together with the bomb-shaped skirts, soon bound to disappear , and figure only, like the peasant costume of the north of France, in charity bazaars on city girls- Instead of country girls, who are abandoning them for flimsy trash three years behind the cur- rent mode. The air is sultry, like a gentle steaming In the laboring noonday sun. Clouds rising above clouds around the whole horlson meet at the senith Ilka a dome. There is no end of peaceful hamlets, pretty, tidy, busy. We stop for the captain to make an afternoon call. Small girls pass In procession bearing tu­ lips. Where to? What for? Mystery. We steam on. And there Is nothing more. The river widens and the windmills and the sawmills give place to shipping. Then the squat spires of a city full of little unartistlc churches show themselves, and we approach the seventh commercial port of Europe. The captain says it looks like rain. From boozy Belgian Antwerp to Dutch Wetter- dam and its mild thoroughfares is all the dle» tance from the continental system to our Amer­ ican respectability. The town is Puritan. The girls look at you with straight eyes, as Innocent Of coquetry as lambs; they are not like French girls walking with their mammas, casting down their eyes consciously. Would a French girl plag Copenhagen or other promiscuous kissing games? Here they kiss all the afternoon, as Innocent as little billing birds. They kiss in the rain; and it rains often. In speaking of the handsome quays they eall the Boompjes (more like a park than any ordi­ nary waterfront), the guidebook says that visitors may enter and Inspect the vessels without ob­ jection provided they do not get in the way of the work in hand. We did not entet and Inspect, but I can well believe we might have done so. We did walk innocently into the garden of the most aristocratic club of Rotterdam and mingled freely with the smart set who were holding tulip competition, where the heroine was a blonde, blue-eyed, fourteen-year-old girl who had grown an apple green variety! We were only made aware of our position when we drank curacao and bitters offered by a waiter in blue broad­ cloth and a yellow vest, who refused to take our money, we not being club members. Rotterdom is so airy, open, bright, so shady, flowery and well watered that its citizens may sing. Canals are everywhere, and the canals are beautiful. They give a park-like look to all the streets, bordered by lawns, garnished by shrubs and trees and tulips. And the citisens, from out their kitchen windows or their parlor windows, when they have company for dinner, hook up fresh fish in profusion, which adds a labor-saving element to their blithe freedom. Should a list be made of continental cities which have no great sights, no monufhents, no ruinB, no collections--in a word, no treadmill tourist round--the town of Rotterdam would take a place of honor in it, although she has a mari­ time museum, a picture gallery and a statue of Erasmus. In the market you can make a study of the bodices and headgear of the peasants. Catching the Dutch taste for still life you may muse on -symphonies of color in the produce. Here are the fish stalls, where all the shades of white--sliver white, bide white, white shaded with bronze green, white with metallic reflections--unite in a clear scale of harmony. Here all the tints of, green are heaped together in the vegetables, melodiously accompanied by the fragrance of the flowers, which sing together with the frnlts In the most diverse color tones. Though Rotterdam 1B a great port and an Im­ portant manufacturing center, my best Impres­ sions of the pleasant city are connected with a cafe chantant, • a park, the markets and the resi­ dential streets. The great manufactures are ship­ building, tobacco factories, sugar refineries and many great distilleries, especially of gins ahd Dutch liqueurs. The more Important articles of commerce are coffee, sugar, tobacco, rice and Bpices. It is the seventh port of Europe. Again and again the vision of a well-known and beloved city rises up before the writer's docile imagination and affects him to the point of tears --the city of Philadelphia, Pa,, which, I see, must : be a faithful moving picture today of 'What New York was in 175% It is the city of homes par excellence, and it resembles Rotterdam, and Rot­ terdam resembles it The wearied tourist seek­ ing for a snug retreat In which to raise a beard will find Rotterdam a second Philadelphia. And looking from the watch tower of St. Law­ rence's church, down on'the tranquil panorama; on the river and the suburbs; on the red brick houses and the streets so straight and self-re­ specting, where the children play jackstones on the front doorsteps, and their big sisters play bull in the ring and kiss the boys on the side­ walk; to look down, I say, on the slow but yel­ low trolleys whose,faint jingle rises as from some secure blamelesB and fruitful sheep field; to ad­ mire the smoke of manufactories, and police wag­ ons taking drunken factory hands to Jail, he will ,4Bry, "It is Philadelphia--Philadelphia, .tor the out- aide of the platter Is so dean!" RETIRES WITH RECORD OLAfST RAILROAD CONDUCTOR. Ml COUNTRY ENDS WORK. ALL LIVES AFTER ONE MODEL Tinker and Smith Are Anxious te Ap­ pear Like Lawyer and Preecher. Meet fsMsrkable of all'fiw revolts Is the revolt of the common man against the distinctions that once marked him. Chesterton deplores the lack of color in modern life. He harks back to the middle ages, when a tin­ ker was a tinker with pack and aftron, •nd whan a smith was as easily recog­ nised in a crowd as a sailor. But a first essential in the new art of being la, that a tinker shall not be a tinker when he is not tinkering, or a smith a, smith when he is not at the forge. Tour tinker of old was a tinker in his evenings and on his holidays. The modern tinker must not be out of place in the research library. Country j people no longer wear peculiar styles. They are more distinguished for tele­ phones and taste for opera. The modern smith, tinker, even lab- borer, has not stoppe<L*t Imitating (ha clothes of his master, writes Carl 8. Hansen In the Forum. He Is now liv­ ing the life of that master. He reads the same papers, goes to the same church, votes at the same poll, criti­ cises the same drama. On his walls, as much as he can afford of It, he hangs the same pictures; he has car­ pets of the same pattern. His very table manners are as much superior to Chesterton's tinker's as were the no­ ble's of that medieval day to his serfs. The truth is (that in all this oonfor- mlty there Is a still greater noncon­ formity. The day of the conforming smith is gone. He seeks the sam j re­ finement as has the doctor who at­ tends him, the teacher who inst racts his children, the politician he elects to represent him, the minister *ho ex­ horts him. It is part of his ambition to live and to think middle class. Evidence in the Case. "How do you know this horse's tall was cruelly cut?" "We have 4ecJMuna»tiury evMeac* of the teat' v v ft. B. Llghtcap of Kanaaa City Had 46 Yeara of Continuous Serviee With One LIAe--Talks of Times' Changes. Attar 45 yeara of service, 34 of those year as conductor of a passenger train, S. B. Light- cap, 816 Forest a v e n u e , K a n s a s City, haB been re­ tired at the age of seventy years, with a pension from the railroad company of $64 a month for the re­ mainder of his life. When Mr. Light- cap retired he was the oldest conduc­ tor in years of ser­ vice, so far as he knows, in the United States. Mr, Llghtcap saw many changes in It was children's Sunday, and the the methods of railroading. When he--father of a growing family proudly led Beverage "T * ,5s* -f the San--• A welcome addition to any party-- any time--any place. Sparkling with life and whotesomcness At Soda Fountains or Carbon­ ated in bottles. Demand the Genuine- Refuse Substitutes lead for Flw Booklet. THE COCA-COLA COMPANY, Atlanta, G*. went to Omaha in 1868 it was from Pittsburgh, Pa., where he had gone after being mustered out of the Union army. He was In the Fourteenth Penn­ sylvania cavalry and waa in every prinolpal battle in the east from the saoond battlo of Bull Run to the sur­ render at Appomattox. s. "When I began as a passenger con- 4actor from Kansas City to Brook- yflle," he said,, Abilene was the north­ ern end of the long cattle trail from Texas. There was not a house north of the railroad, where the principal part of Abilene is now, and 1 have seen thousands of Texas cattle grazing there. In all of the country for miles east of Abilene, where rich farms are nam, there was not a settler and the soil was unbroken. Ballna was a CAME AT THE RIGHT MOMENT Nature Added Her Quota to Complete the List Given Clergyman by Proud Father. ALBERTA his assorted offspring up the aisle and to the baptismal font to hare, a long-neglected ceremony performed. "Aha!" said the clergyman, rubbing his hands in delight, "a fine family, sir, and what will be their names?" The proud father drew in a big breath and began: "Clarence Wood Burst, Helen May Burst, Frederick Otto Burst, Oscar Will Burst and Mary. Kant Burst." While the clergyman was. fanning for air the patter of rain was heard on the church roof. "I think, sir," said the father, "we're going to have a cloudburst." & B. Lighteap. very small village and in all the coun­ try west of there a plow had never been stuck Into the sod. "I ran through AbHene in the daya when Wild Bill Hickok waa town mar­ shal, and through Hays when Bill Cody now famous as Buffalo Bill, was marshal there. Many a time I saw the body of a man swinging from a tel­ egraph pole. In those days railroad trains in the weat were infested with three-card monte men, and I knew Canada Bill, the notorious confidence man, who used to operate on the trains out of Kansas City. "I was well acquainted with Jim Brldger, the Indian fighter, scout and trapper who discovered Bridgets pass through the Rockies. I hauled him many a mile. "I hauled the raah of gold seekers to Denver and Deadwood, and later to Cripple Creek. I hauled the millions of immigrants who first settled Kansas and Colorado, for ours was for many years the only railroad from Kansas City to the west. "One of my duties in those early days waa to see that the tallow candles in the cars were lighted when dusk came. It was several years be­ fore we got oil lamps, and years more before we. got gas light. We had no cir brakes, but eased the train down at stops with old-fashioned wheel brakes operated by hand. Our en­ gines then were much smaller than those in use now, and so were the pas­ senger coaches. , An average coach would carry 40 or 60 persons." In his 45 years of railroading Mr. Lighteap never had an accident that injured anyone, never had a passenger killed and was never injured himself. He never had an adventure that he thinks is worth telling, either. His splendid health and physical condition refute the general belief that railroad­ ing is injurious in the long run. He owns the cottage in which he lives, and that, together with the pensions from the government and the railway company are all he has. ECZEMA BURNED AND ITCHED 108 Walnut St., HillBboro, 111--"My child had a breaking out on the lower limbs which developed into eczema. The eczema began with pimples which contained yellow corruption and from the child's clothing they were greatly irritated. They seemed to burn, which made the child scratoh them, resulting ia a mass of open places. They made her so cross and fretful that It was impossible to keep her quiet. They caused her to lose much sleep and she waa constantly tormented by severe Itching and burning. "I tried several well-known reme­ dies, but got no relief until I got a sample of Cuticura Soap and Oint­ ment, which did BO much good that I got a large quantity that cured her in ten days after she had been affected for-two months." (Signed) Mrs. Edith Schwartz, Feb. 28, 1913. Cuticura Soap and Ointment sold throughout the world. Sample of each free, with 32-p. Skin Book. Address post­ card "Cuticura, Dept. L, Boston."--Adv. Aa Mrs. Belmont Saw It. Mrs. O. H. P. Belmont, meeting Winston Churchill in London just be­ fore the young first lord departed on his Mediterranean cruise, scored well In an exchange of banter. "At least, Mrs. Belmont," said Mr. Churchill, apropos, of course, of votes for women--"at least you'll admit that man has a great deal more will than woman?" ^ ."Not at all," Mrs. Belmont replied, "he's only got more won't" Chafing Hives. This troublesome skin affection is difficult to diagnose at the outset. Be on the safe side, therefore, and when­ ever the skin is Irritated use Tyree's Antiseptic Powder immediately and avoid further trouble. 25c. at druggists. Sample sent free by J. S. Tyree, Chemist, Washington, D. C.--Adv. pr IS HIJ;n ANT* so For yean? tfca Prorlnais of Alberta (Wernra Canada) vms the Big R&schin(OomitFi'JCanf of these ranches today a re (mm aose grain fields and the cattle beve (tr«a place to tbo enltlration of wheat,oata. barley and flax; tbe change baa made man y tbottsands of American*, settled on the** plains, wealthy, bnt it baa la-creased tbe price of UTB a toe*. There Is splendid opportoal^ now to S«t% Free Homestead of 168 acres (and another aa a pre­ emption) in the newer district* ana protincBPltbereattlnorgraii*. The crops aro always good, tbe climate is excnllent, schools sad churches arc convenient, markets splendid, in either Manitoba, Sas­ katchewan or Alberta. Send for literature, tbe latest Information, railway rates, ete^M C.J.era4MM,(URtfdutsl.lT.a*Jlia|i M. V.MCISMI, 178 Ji!ftnoaln^l(t>stt. Canadian Government Agent*, or address Superintendent or Immigration, Ottai -- Your Liver Is Clogged Up That's Why Yoa'n Tir«d--Out --Have No AppeC CARTER'S LITTLE. LIVER PILLS will put you right in a few days.^ T h e y d < their duty. CureCon-J stipation, • , „ _ Biliousness, Indigestion and Sick Hesdacne SMALL PILL, SMALL DOSE, SMALL fWCL 4 Genuine must bear Signature . > ITTLE M" ii.e You Can't Cut Out A BOO BPAVlN^urrwTHOBODGHPUV BSORBINE will clean them off permanently, and you work the horse same time. Does not blister or remove Aa hair. $2.00 per bottle, delivered. Will tell you more if you write. Book 4 K free. ABSORBINE, JR_. the antiseptic liniment for manlund,. reduces Varicose Veins, Ruptured! Muiclft or Llfament*. EnUrftd Chads, Gsfcash. Went, Cjritt. Allan pain quickly. Price St.00 lid SLW I bottle at dniftin* or delivered. Manufactured oaljr by W.F.YOUNG. P. D. F., 310 TmbIs Si.. SprinffleW. "t TNI NBW Fit INCH KKMBDY. N«1.14. NUB- THERAPION Hospitals with 'i' &'• Better, but Not Cheaper. "After all, 'tis better to have loved and lost than never to have loved at all." MHuh! the chump who said that didn't know what it costs to be en­ gaged." Of Course, 'Then you dont like a folding af­ fair ?" "I do not. It's trouble enough at night to undress yourself without having to undress the bed." Limited 8truck a Truck. In Marahfield, III., a careless bag­ gageman left a truckload of cases con-, taining empty soda water bottles too near the track. There was a crowd of people on the platform waiting for a local passenger train lying in the yards until a limited passed through. When the limited came along the mail clerk reached out with a big crane for the mall sack hanging on a rack! above the station platform. The crane ripped into the truck load of. bottles, threw them in a welter and haze of broken glass, all over the platform. Two waiting passengers were struck; by flying eases and very nearly killed. J x-i,#* m . -v.,--. .vs. Railroad Service and Accidents. According to the figures from tha Interstate commerce commission's ac* cident bulletin No. 46, covering OcUw ber, November and December, 1912k there was an increase of eight persona killed and a decrease of 372 injured in train accidents in the United States for these months when compared with the corresponding months in 1911. As these are the only class of railway ac­ cidents for which railroad operation ia distinctively responsible, they testify to relative improvement in the safe operation of traiaa. " Important to Mothora Examine cs.rafolly ovexy bottle of CA8TOR1A, a safe sad sure remedy for Infants and children, and sea that It Bears the Signature of In Une For Over 80 Years. Children Cry for Fletcher's Outorii Noblest Work of God. Owner of House--How soon this job be finished? Plumber's Assistant--Jost as as business picks up, boss!--Puck. win Cupidity is what enables the get- rich-quick promoter to remain In love with his profession. rsat success, CURES CNKOMfC WSAXHKSS. LOST TlOOt VIM, KIDMKT. lUODta, DIS1ASSS. HOOD POtSOM. riLBS. CITHEB NO. DMKMtmTS or MAIL tl. KR 4 CM N ST. M SW TORK or L VILA It I rOUOERA CO, M, •SKKMAH ST. T TORONTO. WRITE FOK FWJU MED. co, HAVERSTOCXRB. HAMWEAO, LONDON. 1 TRY HEW BMI)KB«WTTM«)W»SO» BAST TO TA THERAPION sr. SEE THAT TRACK MARKED WORD THERAPION IS I MUX. OOVT.STAMP etuio TO AU GUiUlHIACU "i'ii '$$$ DAISY FLY KILLER £ n*ni«atal. coawalist AMP. Lkit, sit «•*>«>. Made mf m«t»! metKplttstllg* ow, »lli out sell <r Injtar* a*|lkia|. Qaaraataed dh«l«a All dssUraortMHk •IBfMi Dald far •AKOLD SOlMaS, Its OsCalk A**., Brooklra. n. Y» •a - .iK Stoat Figares will find Style, Fit and Comfort in the cool reducing corset W. B. 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