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„,. .„ i : - X •>;**• :" *> -PI: ' ' -i V,-V'",?:*' \ Jf w *3®W»e«! *\Krr *, ' « 1 •V#Hj*-v< "J ?7, ; r ,ty PMDAli PADRISH CQgyaoHt m A- C.t*CUHt€> » CO > - CHAPTER XlX.--Cpnttmwd. ,-; ' ^ «"»M "You refuse obedience to the gover- l|;:.'i#f^nor of New France?" - .«/"* "No, monsieur; f am under orders f v^" to obey. There will be no trouble be- v tween us if, you are just to' my men. ,4 La Barre is not here to decide this. hC-: .^but I am." He put his band on D'Ar- »' T ^tigny's shoulder. "Monsieur Casslon •[/- '3^ charges this man with murder. He is * i/ $' r an officer of my command, and I V f arrest him. He shall be protected, /< a ; - and given a fair triaL What padre V ^can yon askf - • "You will protect b I ft! help him to »• - .*** > '• t "••scape, rather!" burst out Casslon. ?jg-}; Vf/tfrrbat is the scheme, De Baugis." ' *"Your words are Insult, monsieur. * /, ^ and I bear no more. If you seek quar- yon shall hare It. I am your equal. V ?>* »;monsletfr. and my commission, comes flv \ V-* '* V from the king. . Ah, M. de la Durftn-1 V ; , from the king. vtayp, what say you of this matter?" "-"CF A man, brond-sliouldered, In the dress of a woodsman, elbowed his 'Hray through the throne of soldiers. \*\ ,"U>' He had a strong, cood-humored face. 1 1 '•'£"* "In falth- 1 heard little of the con- V'*-?vHL troversy. yet 'tis like I know the gist »\ of It, as I have just conversed with te'ytwounded soldier of mine, BarbeaU. ;,i-! ,> lsii who repeated the story as he under- » it! *' ; r*„;' Stood it m My hand to you, Sieur d'Ar •" tigny, and it seems to me, messieurs. J that De Tonty hath the right of it." *' "You take his side against us who J'«<have the authority of the governor?" > , >-* "Pah! that is not the Issue. 'Tis " mierely a qnestion of justice to this lad s||:;?S?Jhere. I stand for fair trial with Henri ¥ ' v->^' T . de Tonty, and will back my Judgment lsl^f;'&'Wlth my sword." C C ' They stood eye to eye, the fbur of Srfv-!ll®;them, and the group of soldiers seemed to divide, each company ^pawing to- pettier. Cession growled some vague threat, but De Baugis took another ^ -5 coarse, gripping has companion by the "No," Francois, 'tis not worth the anger," be expostulated. . "There will be no crossing of steel. Monsieur Cas­ slon. no Sdoubt, hath reason to be an- jgered--but not I. The man shall have 4# .J ,» His trial, and we will learn the right fc# •*** jnnd wrong of all this presently. Mon- f , t'l! isleur Tonty. the prisoner is left in v ' your charge. Fall back men--to your , barracks. Madame, permit me to of- .'Pf - fer you my escort." . . « ^ .XT "To where, monsieur7* > - ' ; "To the only quarters Atefl mrfl"' ;,f ' reception," be said gallantly, "those 'f'\- i have occupied since arrival here." '»:> ' "Yoo vacate them for me?" 1 hS V' "With the utmost pleasure," bowing ;:^f-^k|rallantly. "I beg of you their accept- ... f tis* Unce; your husband has been my v ' t1161^ *nd will join me to exile." 1^? ^ J "I will use your quarters gladly, L'-1 Captain de Baugis." I said quietly, *bnt will ask to be left there undis- ' ^?3iS,,^hed^, " "Most Mwnnfflj. mada----my wmri- tet^wili accompany yon.** •"Then good night, messieurs." I faced Caesion, meeting his eyes frank­ ly. "I greatly wearied, and would test; tomorrow I will speak with yon, |nonaieur. Permit to pass.** He stood aside, nnabie to affront ine. although the anger in his face was Evidence enough of brewing trouble. doubt he had boasted of me to De baugis. and felt no desire now to have par true relations exposed thus pub- licly. I passed him, glancing at none Kpf the others, and'followed the soldier across the beaten parade. A moment "later I was safely bidden within a -two-roomed cabin. A table and two chairs, rudely made •with ax and knife, comprised the en­ tire furniture, but a small mirror, nn- framed. bung suspended against the farther wall. I glanced at my refleo- tion En the glass, surprised to learn how little change the weeks had made *• In my appearance. It was still the ;:-rface of a girl which gazed back at \ me, with clear, wide-open eyes, ami ' cheeks flushed In the firelight. Strange to say, the very sight of my youthful i ness was a disappointment, and , ^brought with It doubt. How could *1 : »fight these men? How could I hope % .^t® win- against their schemtt and ^ .(:i # plans pf vengeance? -H' 'I opened the single + Window, and k'/ leaned out, grateful for the fresh air | ' ,«\ blowing against my face, but unable ^ to perceive the scene below shrouded '5 *n darkness. Far away, down the , >• p'l|f 4 valley, was the red glow of a fire, it« ' lame reflecting over the surface of v river. 1 knew I stared down int<> ® great void, hut conld hear no soun.1 yJS'i' t except a faint gurgle of water directly \ • heueath. I closed the window shutter, i .• I • ' '"'and, urged by some impulse, crossed H?'. • over t0 the door leading to the other I&.* Sf«rtment. It was a sleeping room |"'v SV, " scarcely more than a large closet, with garments banging on pegs against th«> logs, and two rude bunks opposite the door. But the thing which captured my eyes was a bag of browu leather lylug on the floor at the head of one of the hunks--a shapeless bag, haying no distinctive mark about it. and yet which 1 Instantly recognized--since we left Quebec it had been in our boat As I stood staring at it. I remem­ bered the words of De Baugis, "yohr husband has been my guest." Ay. that was It--this had been Cession's quarters since his arriidtl, and th1« was his bag. the one he kept beside him in the canoe, his private property. My heart beat wildly In the excite­ ment of discovery, yet ttyere was no hesitation; Instantly I was upon my knees tugging at the straps. iThey .yielded easily, and I forced the leather aside, gaining glimpse of the contents. I discovered nothing but clothes at ;f!rst--moccasins »nd numerous under- : garments--together with a uniform. evidently new. ard quite gorgeous. , l£«..CfPATftt ..l&WfXW* '.f£ ve»iJe<l a pocket in the leather side, •ecurely fastened, and on opening this with trembling fingers, a number of papers were disclosed. Scarcely venturing to breathe, hard ly knowing what I hoped to find. 1 drew these forth, and glanced hastily at them. Snrely the mau would bear uothing unimportant with him on such a journey; these must be papers of value, for I had noted with what care he had guarded the bag all the way. Yet at l\rst 1 discovered nothing to re­ ward my search--there was a package of letters, carefully bound with a strong cord, a commission from La Barre. creating Cass ion a major of in­ fantry, a number of receipts issued in Montreal, •• a list of goods purchased at St. tgnuce, and a roster of men com­ posing the expedition. t At last from one co:*ner of tlie pocket I drew forth a number of close­ ly Written pages, evidently the gover­ nor's instruction. They Were traced in so fine a hand that I was obliged to return beside the fire to decipher their contents. They were written ii» detail, largely concerned with matters of routine, especially^referring to rela­ tions with the garrisdn of the fort, and Cassion's -authority over De Baugis, but the closing paragraph had evi­ dently been added later, and bad per­ sona] interest, it read: "Use your dis­ cretion as to D!Artigny. but violence will hardly be safe; he is thought too well of by La Salle, and that fox may get I-onls* ear again. We had best be cantious. Chevet, however, hrib no friends* and. I am told, possesses a list of the La Chesnayne property, and other documents which had best be destroyed. Do not fail in this, nor fear results. 4t We have gone too far to hesitate now." I took this page, and thrust it Into my breast It was not much.,and yet It might prove the one needed link. I ran through the packet of letters, but they apparent^ had no bearing on the case. Assured that I had overlooked noth­ ing, I thrust the various articles back, rpstrapped the bag. and returned to the outer room. As I paused before the fire, someone rapped at the door. I stood erect my fingers gripping the pistol, which I still retained. Again the raps sounded, clearly enough de­ fined in the night yet not violent or threatening. "Who is there?" I asked. ' "Your husband, my dear--Francois Cftssion." 1 "But why do you come? It was the pledge of De Baugis that I was to be left alone." "A fair pledge enongh, althongh I was not consulted. From the look of your eyes, little difference if I had been. You are as sweet in disposition as ever, my dear; yet never mind that --we'll soon settle our case now, I warrant you. Meanwhile I am content to wait uutil my time comes. 'Tis not you I seek tonight but my dressing case." "Your dressing case?" "Ay, you know It well, a brown leather bag I bore with me during onr journey." ' "And where Is It monsieur?" "Beneath the bunk in the sleeping room. Pass it out to mc,. and I will ask no more." '"Twill be safer If you keep your word," I said quietly, "for I still carry Hugo Chevet's pistol, and know how to use it Draw away from the door, monsieur, and t will thrust out the bag." I lowered the bar. opening the door barely wide enough to permit the bag's passage. The ll^ht from the fire glea med on ^he barrel of the pistol held tor* I Glanced at My Reflection In the Glass. In my band. It was the work of an "Instant and I saw nothing of Casslon, but. as the door closed, be laughed scornfully. '"Tis your game tonight madarae." he said spitefully, "but tomorrow I play my hand. I thunksyou for thf bag. as It contains my commission. By virtue of It I shalj assume com­ mand of this Fort St. Louis, and t know how to deal with murderers. I congratulate you on sour lovpr. Yna- datne--good hlght."^ • \ 1 must have slept from sheer exhaus tton, although I made no attempt to lie down. It was broad daylight when I awoke, aroused by pouudlng on the door. To my Inquiry a v6ice an uounced food, and I lowered the bar. permitting an orderly to enter. Itexrtng the room, but I suddenly felt courage' toad dress him. "You were not of our party," I katd gravely. "Are you a soldier of M. de Baugis?" "No, mada me," and 'be turned fac­ ing me, his countenance a pleasant one. WI am not a soldier at all, bat I serve M. de Tonty." "Ah, I am glad of that Yoil will bear to your master a message?" "Perhaps, mada me," his tone some­ what doubtful. "You.are the wife of Monsieur Cassien ?* "Do not hesitate bees use of that? I hastened to say, believing I understood his meaning. "While it is true I am legally the wife of Francois Casslon. my sympathies now are altogether with tiie Sieur d'Aftlghy. I would have you ask 1L die Xwty with me." . , \ ' •' \ v ,"Yes,• .madam**^,' "Yon have served with D'Artigoy? ou know him well?" "Three years, rnadame; twice he saved my life on the great river. M. de Tonty shall receive yonr message." I conld not eat although I made the endeavor, and finally crossed to the window, opened the heavy wooden shutters, and gazed without. What a marvelous scene,that was! Never be­ fore had my eyes looked upon so fair a view, and I stood silent and fasci­ nated. My window opened to the westward, and I gazed down from the very edge of the vast rock Into the wide valley. Great treetops were be­ low, and I had to lean far out to see the silvery waters lapping the base of the precipice, but a little beyond, the full width of the noble stream became visible, decked with Islands, and winding here and there between green-clad banks, until it disappeared in the far distance. I had neglected to bar the door, and as I stood there gazing in breathless fascination, a sudden step pn the floor caused me to turn in alarm. My eyes encountered those of De Tonty, who stood hat in hand. " 'Tis a fair view, madame," he said politely. "In all my travels I have seen no nobler domain." "It hath a peaceful look," I an­ swered, still struggling with the mem­ ory. "Can it be true the savages hold the valley r "All too true--see. yonder, where the smoke still shows, dwelt the Kaskas- kias. Not a lodge is left and the bod les of their dead strew the ground! Along those meadows three weeks since there were the happy villages of twelve tribes of peaceful Indians; to­ day those who yet live are fleeing for their lives." "And this fort monsieur?" " "Safe enough, I„ think, although no one of us can venture ten yards be­ yond the gate. The Rock protects us. madame, yet we are greatly outnum­ bered, and with no ammunition to waste. *Twas the surprise of the raid which left us thus helpless. Could we have been given time to gather our friendly Indians together, the story would be different" "They are not cowards, then?" "N6t with proper leadership. We have seen them fight often since we invaded this land. 'Tis my thought many of them are hiding now beyond those bills, and may find some way to reach us. I suspected such an effort last night, when I sent out the rescue party which brought you In. Ah. that* remind* me, madame; you sent for mer: "Yes, M. #e Tonty. I can speak to you frankly? You are the friend c;f 8ieur d'Artigny?" "Faith, I hope I am, madame. bi*t I know not what has got into tie Ind­ ite will tell me nothing." "I suspected as much, monsieur. It wai for that reason I have sent for jjrouf. He has not even told you the story of our Journey?'* "Ay, as brief as a military report-- not a fact I could not have guessed- There Is a secret here, which I have not discovered. Why Is M. Casslon so wild for the lad's blood, and how came there to be trouble between Rene and the^furtrader? Bah! I know the lad Is no murderer, but no one will tell me the facts." V "Then I will, monsieur." I said gravely. "It was because of my be­ lief that Sleur d'Artigny would re­ fuse explanation that I sent for you. The truth need not be concealed; not from you, at least the commander of Fort St» Louis--" "Pardon, madame, but t am not that. La Salle left me in command with less than a dozen men. De Baugis came ! later, under commission from La Barre. J but he also had but a handful of fol­ lowers. To save quarrel we agreed to divide authority, and so got along fair­ ly well, until M. Casslon arrived with nis party. Then the odds were alto­ gether on the other side, and De Bau­ gis assumed command by sheer force of rifles. 'Twas La Salle's wish that no resistance be made, but. faith, with the Indians scattered, I bad no power. Tills morning things have taken a new ptase. An hour ago II. Casslon as­ sumed command of the garrison by virtue of a commission be produced from the Governor la Barre. naming him major of infantry. This gives him rank above Caput In de Baugis. and. besides, he bore a letter authorizing him to take command of all French troops In this valley. If. in his Judg rnenT, circumstances rendered It nec essar/: No#doubt he deemed this the propw occasion." "To assure the conviction and death of D'Artigny?" I asked, as he paused. "That Is your meaning, monsieur?" "I cannot see it otherwise." he an­ swered slowly, "although I hesitate to make so grave a chsrge In your pres­ ence, mKdaaie. Our situation here i« scarcely grave enough to warrant hu, action, for the fort Is in no ser1oti> while no friend of mine. t» still a fair- minded man, and mfrdful. He cannot be made a tool for any purpose of re­ venge. This truth Major Casslon has doubtless learned, and "hence assumes command himself to carry out bis plans." I looked Into the soldier's dark, cfear-cut face, feeling a confidence In him which impelled me to bold out my band. "M. de Tonty." I said, determined pow to address htm in att\frankness, "it Is trne tbit I am legally the wife of this man of whom you speak, but thts only enables me to know his mo­ tives better. This condemnation of Sieur d'Artigny is not his plan alone; it was born In the brain of La Barre. and Casslon merely executes his or­ ders. I have here the written Instruc­ tions under which he operates." I held out to him the La fiarre's letter. THE MeHENKT PLAINDE.4XER, McHEXRT, i£ a tray, which he deposited on the table *••• CHAPTER X*.' ' r ^ ' ~ v ' ifelx^The Court-Martial.' pe Tonty took the paper from my hand, glanced at it then lifted his eyes inquiringly to mine. "Tis In the governor's own band. How came this in your possession?" "I found it In Casslon's private bag last night, under the berth ydnder. Later be came and carried the bag away, never suspecting it had been opened. His com mission was there also. Bead it monsieur." He did so slowly, carefully, seeming to weigh every word, his eyes darken­ ing, and a fludh creeping into his swar- 'thy checks. "Madame," he exclaimed at last. "I care not whether the man be your husband, but. this is a damnable con­ spiracy, hatched months ago jp Que­ bec." y > . V(' - I bowed my head. ' rf "Beyond doubt, monsieur." "And you found nothing nlore->-no documents taken from Hugo Chevet?" "None, monsieur;, they were either destroyed in accordance with La Barre's instructions, or else M. Cas­ slon has them on his person." "But I do not understand the rea- spn for such foul treachery. What oc­ curred back In New France to cause the murder of Chevet and this attempt to convict D'Artigny of the crime?" "Sit here, monsieur," I said, my voice trembling, "and I will tell you the whole story. I must tell you. for there is no one else in Fort St Louis whom I can trust." I told the tale simply, concealing nothing, not even my growing love for* D'Artigny. The man listening inspired my utmost confidence--I sought his re­ spect and faith. As I came to the end for a moment he remained motionless and silent, his eyes grave with thought. " 'Tis a strange, sad case." he said finally, "and the end Is hard to deter­ mine. 1 believe yon. madame, and honor your choice. The case is strong against D'Artigny; even your testi­ mony Is not for his defense. Does M. Casslon know you saw the young man that night?" "He has dropped a remark or two which show suspldon. Possibly some one of the men #aw me outside the Mission bouse, and made report" "Then he will call you as a wit­ ness. If I know the nature of Cas­ slon his plan of trial is a mere form, although doubtless be will ask the presence of Captain de Baugis and M. de la Ddrantaye. Neither will oppose him. so long as he furnishes the proof necessary to convict. He will give his evidence, and call the Indian, and per­ chance a soldier or two, who will swear to whatever he wishes. If need­ ed. be may bring you In also to strengthen the case. D'Artigny will make no defense, because be has no witnesses, and because he has a fool notion that be might compromise you by telling the whole truth." 'Then there la no hope; nothing we scan do?" "No, madame: not now. I shall not be consulted, nor asked to be present. I am under strict order from La Salle .not to oppose IA Barre's officers, and, even If I were disposed to dlsooey my chief, I possess no force with which to act. I. have but ten men on whom I could rely, while they number over forty." He leaned closer, whispering, "Our policy is to wait, and act after the prisoner has been condemned." •How? You mean a rescue?" 'Ay, there !les the <*nly hope. There is one man here who can turn the trick. He Is D'Artlgny's comrade and friend. Already be has outlined a plan to me, but I gave no encouragement. Yet now that 1 know the truth, I shall not oppose. Have you courage, ma- dnrac. to give him your assistance? 'Tis like to be a desperate venture." I drew a deep breath, but with no sense of fear. "Yes. monsieur. Who Is the man I am tp trust?" "Francois de Bolsrondet. the one who led the rescue party last night" "A gallant lad." "Ay. a gentleman of France, • dar­ ing heart. Tonight--" The ^oor opened, and the figure of a man stood outlined against the bright­ er glow without. De Tonty was on his feet fronting the newcomer, ere 1 even realized it was Casslon who stood there, glaring, at us. Behind him two soldiers waited In the sunshine. "What is the meaning of this, M. de Tonty?" he exclaimed, with no pre­ tense at friendliness. "A rather early morning call, regarding which I was not even consulted. Have husbands no rights in this wilderness paradise?" "Such rights as they Uphold." re­ turned the Italian, erect and motion- leas. "1 am always at your service, M. Casslon. Madame and I have con­ versed without permission. If that be crime. I answer lor it now, or when you will." It was in Casslon's heart to strike. I read the desire in his eyes. In the swift clutch at bis sword hilt; but the sarcastic smile on De Tonty's thin llpa robbed him of courage. *• Tis best you curb your tongue." he snarled, "or I will have you to the guardhouse with D'Artlguy. I com­ mand now." "So I bear. Doubtless yotl could con­ vict tue as easily.'* "What do you mean?" "Only that your whole case Is a tis­ sue of lies." , "f'nh! you have her word fo" It. no doubt. But you will sing a different song preseutly Ay. and It will I* lu«r X-**. . V 'r- lo this my testimony?" "Just that--the talis of what yw saw In the Mission garden at St Iff nace. Sacre, that shot hits., does it: You thought me asleep, and with net knowledge of your escapade, but I had other eyes open that night, my lady. ATow will you confess the truth?" "I shall conceal uothing, monsieur." '"Twill be best that you make no at­ tempt," he sneered, bis old braggart spirit reasserting Itself as De Tonty kept silent "I have guard here to escort you to the commandant's office." "Yon do me honor." I turned to De Tonty. "Shall I go, monsieur?" "I think it best, madame." he replied soberly, bis dark eyes contemptuously surveying Casslon. "To refuse would only strengthen the case against the' prisoner. M. Casslon will not I am pure, deny me the privilege of accom­ panying you. Permit me to offer my arm." j I did not glance toward Casslon, but Ifelt no doubt as to the look on his face; yet he would think twice before laying hand on this stern soldier who had offered me protection. The guard at the door fell aside promptly, and per­ mitted us to pass. 8ome order was Two Distinct Styles Nave Been ^Featured by the Parisian "Bin Houses." % , ' * ~ .; SLEEVES MADE A FEATURE Decree Is That They Must Be Tight From the Elbow Down--Directoire :.vpw» First Empire Effaota Copied--Embroidery Used in Profusion. N«w York.--The coats of the seasotf may be roughly summed up in two parts--the short, capelike shapes with sleeves th^t ripjjle over the top of a high-waisted, embroidered belt at­ tached to the skirt--these are in the, minority, but very smart--and the man­ nish directoire coat featured by Che- rult, Bernard, Pouillet, Callqt aw* most of the other big Paris houses. This latter coat will probably be the shape seen, on more than half the women this season. It has a slim top that fits the figure, a small belt that draws attention to Itself through but­ tons or buckles in front, and an extra t Stood 81 lent, Faeelnate*. spoken In a low tone, and they fell be­ hind with rlfleS at trail. Once in the open I became, for the first time, aware of irregular rifle firing, and otv served in surprise men posted upon a narrow staging along the aide of the log stockade. "Is the fort being attnekadf* I asked. ^ "There has been firing for tome days," he answered, "but .no, r*at at­ tack. The savages merely hld« fon­ der amid the rocks and Woods, and strive to keep us from venturing down the trail. Twice we have wade sor­ tie, and driven them away, but 'tfs a useless waste of fighting." l?e called to a man posted above the gate: "How Is It this morning, Jule>T" The soldier glanced about cautious­ ly, keeping his head below cover. <TO BE CONTINUED.) Kitchener Wheat. Some years ago Lord Kitchener'• name was given to a kind of wheat that was Introduced by tym Intc South Africa. The story is told in the Dally London Chronicle. While Kitchener was in India some of the acquaint­ ances he had made in South Africa wrote to him that their wheat was suf­ fering from rust and that they had heard that Tibetan wheat was immune from this disease. Could he send them a few bushels? He sent the wheat and that was an end of the matter, as he thought. Some years afterward he was at Nairobi, 4nd saw a few acres of growing wheat named Kitchener wheat He learned that the seed had come'from a part of South Africa, 2.000 miles distant--the offspring of the marriage of his Tibetan wheat with a native variety. "So." said Lord Kitchener, "Just as my grandfather. Doctor Chevalller. gave h^s name to a famous barley, mine is now attached to a special kind of wheat." Worth Knowing. Gumboils are most painful and re­ sult generally froin a decayed root, which causes the Inflammation and ab­ scess that resolves Itself- Vnto a gum­ boil. Foment the outside of the face with a hot camomile and poppy heuri fomatlon and apply a small whlre hread-und-milk poultice to the gui* boll. Renew frequently. So soon as the pain and swelling have disap­ peared It Is'hest to have the tooth re­ moved. In cases where decayed and ulcerated roots have been allowed to remain, disease of the Jawbone has re­ sulted. Usually when the sufferer tikes cold there will be a renewal of tfee inanimation, puin and un^gyuno*. •, f , ' v Musical Instrument Output American manufacturers of musical Instruments, with an annual output valued at about ?10<>,000,000, export o'lly $300,000 worth unnually to for­ eign countries. American pianos ars chiefly exported to Canada, where they constitute about 90 per cent of the to­ tal imports of that class to Great Brit­ ain. for reshipment to other parts of the w^M'ld. and for reshipment to Cen­ tral anW.South America. Our player pianos lixe st-nt jtl aftout equal uum- bers t«T Ans%piirt. England. Italy and Argentina, u^tjumuch larger ties to Caaaim. ^ * Is There a Moral Here? In Friday morning's fiction story » young woman and her lover had quar­ reled; she sat moodily under a tree on the creek batik. The lover hap­ pened alcng ou a high ledge above her and stumbled over a big stone. The stone rolled down the bank and struck the,moody young woman In the hack. She sprang Up. recognized her lover mid forgave him. Moral; When she won't listen io reason, soak her iv the bttck.--Kausns City Star. The World's sugar ' pr«>ductl«Hi about equally divided between to «MP» origi^ v ' 4$ New Satin Blouse From France. full skirt which convolutes around the figure and in which are exploited several of the newest features. They are difficult to describe in detail; the general idea is that the material is brought back and twisted over in many curious ways, as If the designer had been trying out an experiment with the cloth and had pinned it up Into pockets, loose straps and revers and then left them all there. Coat Has Novet Features. The novelty in the top part of the coat consists In radiating lines from neck to waist by gussets of the same material inserted and corded or stitched at the edges. It is probable that this Idea was evolved from what is known as the delta decollete, which was exploited by the Duchess de Vendome to Paris last winter, but which was never taken up in this coun­ try. These gussets inserted from neck to waist make a deep delta effect. The sleeves are gathered at the top, sometimes made after the genuine leg-o'-mutton shape which is not ajv- proved by American dressmakers and which has been altered by many of them Into a more graceful shape which is buttoned tightly from the kuuckles of the hand tb just below the elbow, then flaring to the arm hole, where its fullness is slight enough to be put into a few well-streaked gath­ ers at the back. Whatever else sleeves are, they are tight from the elbow down. Cuffs of fur are frequent, but they fit the wrist and flare upward and outward to hold the fullness of the sleeve as it mounts toward the bend of the elbow. * Fur collars are made in this shape, often pointed in front, fitted tightly to the shoulders and flaring upward and outward to the ears. Satin, velour, Jersey and velvet are the choice of ma­ terials for these suits. Inclined to the Directoire. ^ The prophecies for directoire and first empire styles have come good. There are gowns of dull blue satin that hare .small Jacket effects attached to the skirt, half covered with gray sou­ tache embroidery, which are cut in' a straight line Just under the bust and then dipped to long points of ^raiding dver the hips. The street coats that have been de­ scribed might have been worn in France under the directory. The three-quarter topcoats, which are, the strongest feature of the new fashions, are belted so high under the bust and have such narrow shoulders that they instantly suggest a costume worn by To^ca. The skirts of these coats are full, cling to the figure and Qre cov­ ered with soutache or embroidery. There is a band of fur on the outside of the hem--this is a novelty borrowed from the Russians--and a deeper band on the inside. - Coats of Heavy Blus Satin. Heavy satin is used as frequently for coats as velvet and a bright dark blue seems to be the choice of the French designers. Both of them are heaped with fur. Nutria is used, rat* bit brown, gray and white, but no$|v" many of the hoarse, long-haired pelr ' try. The fur this season must be flat ana pliable, so that it can lend itself f* to all the soft curves of the material. \ Bernard has turned out a black sati#!'|; coat with brown fur that the Ameitl ,, can dressmakers think will have a lonj|* , . run of popularity. It follows th%A ; s fashion of last year, in that it hai^Sf f wide, distended openings at the side, ^ exactly below the waist, that are heav- v' Hy corded at the edges. There is » black gown that goes with this, with'" ^ a deep renaissance yoke of gold lace^ but the majority of women will buy the coat probably, without the gown. ; j Miles of Embroidery. It would be terrifying to have H^'> statistician measure in miles the em* f. broidery used on the new gowns. Itv would make a new burden for ouit ... minds to carry, which are already feel* * \ ing the burden of this departure im ^*> Slothes. . - - : If there is one thing that Franca knows how to do better than any other Place in the world, it is needlework* - i She has called,up all her resources in» "^ this line today. All her needleworkera;; - ire not under the colors, but-they ard^/-v- under orders to cover every piece of/ J material that gois out of Paris with! the most complicated embroidery. The designs are drawn from sev4? eral sources of inspiration. China, Ja-fj pan and Russia are the nations whichif are represented. Thd majority of the designs, however, are reminiscent of the moyen age--'those sumptuous and exquisite patterns that were produced from the twelfth to the fifteenth cen­ tury. There are bits of embroidery on street suits that look as though they were copied from altar cloths. En- ' tire coats have their surfaces pins-, tered with soutache braiding, which Incorporate hundreds of flat disks, wonderfully done, j , All Colors Seemingly Used. Oyster gray soutache is the color cbosen for the largest amount of braid­ ing done, and every color is used In the embroidery, as well as every stitch and design that the world has ever pro­ duced. Jet and colored beads are profusely used. A black silk house gown is al- - most covered with a design In jet. Col­ ored beads in ornamental motifs hang from belts, collars and cuffs. Metal thread is lavishly employed and usually several metals are com­ bined. One of the must effective eve- Evening Coat in Brilliant Colors. nlng gowns lias its mass of embroidery done in gold, qjlver. red and blue metal threads. The blouse illustrated is in biscuit color, with a double collar and cuffs of chiffon edged with narrow bands of brown rabbit. The sash is of brown ... chiffon, tied at the side and finished with gold fringe. Exceedingly popular is the coat shown. It has been drawn from the eighteenth century and is made of bright, rose-colored, satin trimmed witJ| ermine and sliver roses. The pockets t are corded and topped with roses. (Copyright l»l*. by the McClure New spa* per Syndicate.) - _ I Widow's Bonnet WhIJe the majority of mourners ar» not making their mourning conspicu­ ous by its very intensity, there are still widows who persist in wearing the long veil as a token of their be­ reavement For such there are several picturesque new styles being shown. The veil draping is not very different , „ from that employed by those out of mourning who are adopting the long veil for Its smart style qualities. It is thrown over a small toque founda­ tion, thrown back from the face and held perfectly plain in front feyxa band of white crepe around the face line. A bridle of white crepe is passed un­ der the chin and is quietly very chic to an attractive. woman. Sportswoman's Woolen Stockings Who would have thought a couple of years ago that any woman would be Just delighted to have a pair of nice, soft woolen stockings, white ones, done up in a box for a birthday present? The golf women took them first from England and found them comfortable, then a few little Scotch plaids and heather mixtures were timidly Intro­ duced and now the thinnest of Shet­ land zephyr stockings are embroidered and clocked and popular, and as ex­ pensive, as silk. -*> Bit of Embroidery. Chiffon, georgette crepe and all oth­ er diaphanous materials, whether they are use#1 for gowns or a part of cos­ tumes of silk or cloth, tfre usually trimmed with euibVoiderie^ There Is something pleasingly piquant about a bit of embroidery applied to a deli­ cate, diaphanous material. Often when used on these airy fabrics the em­ broidery is quite heavy, but Is con­ fined to a small space. A great quan- ±iT .... r* :• i tlty of it would naturally be apt tt pull the material out of shape. Gold and black embroidery motifs were used on a putty-colored chiffon | afternoon gown seen recently, and on ^ a pale gray crepe gown there were' embroideries of silver, gray and blue. A white net evening gown was trimmed with embroideries placed on the skirt to catch up the draperies at the side and on the tiny Silver Ribbon Fur Trims Hats. The only trimming of a taupe velvet; saHor with a drooping brim is a band ^ of two-inch silver ribbon along one edge of which is a roll of kolinsky. , j • The ribbon is knotted at Ihe front and <' the large double bo# is slightly z wired. , • ' • !?-'• A "Suggestion. ^ de chine underweir IS finished with a narrow binding of satin ribbon. . . , v Si-' ,4>:1