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NORTHWEST HERALD Section A Saturday, August 31, IMS Pago 9 Career outlook Modeling: 'tBydatys! San Francisco! : Palmer road to .? SAIi FRANCISCO - Modeling is a million-dollar mine field. It's as -glamorous as the midden voyage of vthe Titanic. Looking beautiful on the pages of a magazine is just the Up 'Of the ice-blue gaze otvthe cover of •Vogue. '»• In April, 19-year-old Laurtt -inaker of Placerville, Calif., went to New York for two weeks and earned $11,000. That's just the start of a modeling career with the famous .Ford Modeling Agency. A photo fin- 'ish is $100,000 a day (reputedly the going rate, averaged out over a year) for top-dollar models such as Christie Brinkley and Cheryl Tiegs. : According to one Harper's Bazaar editor, the odds of becoming anoth- -- er Brinkley or a Tiegs are 10,000 to 1. r' "At least that," agrees Los Ange- ; les agent Nina Blanchard. "We in- » terview about 600 girls a month, | after initial screening -- and maybe v sign up one. Let's face it, most of us [ w-e flawed. Swedes and Danes seem Mo be less flawed." v Models become household faces J tad often household names when i they are associated with a product: { Kim Alexis for Ultima II, Isabella | Rossini (Ingrid Bergman's daugh- i ter) for Lancome, Willow Banks | (who recently replaced Karen Gra- . ham) for Estee Lauder, Jack! Ad- | ams for Elizabeth Arden, Nancy De • Weir for Max Factor, Tish Hooker S for Germaine Monteil. These mod- I els earn as much as a film star and I a great deal more than the presi- • dent of the United States. • Calvin Klein's Obsession girl, ! Jose Borain, is under a million dol- | lar contract, over a three-year peri- i od. Ines de la Fressange, Karl La- ; gerfelds' muse and the Coco image • for Chanel, is also reputed to make • a million, over seven years. | Though these million-dollar deals i have dash, they are a "buy-out" in | modeling jargon, meaning exclu- - sive to one client, thus less lucrative {than the half-a-million-dollar deal jthat Jerry Ford negotiated for a i shampoo association (many specu- ; late for Christie Brinkley and Prell) • which involves 18 days' work over a ! three-year period, leaving Brinkley • (if it is indeed she) free to carry on her sportswear line, her Cover Girl ; and American Express associations t("a small, short-term deal" says {Hunter) and more. t Wilhelmina International Presi­ dent Bill Weinberg points to a tele- < -vision commercial contract he ne­ gotiated that pays his model $60,000 "for one day's work. The road to the megabucks starts by reaching the first -- very diffi­ cult and very badly paid -- pinna­ cle: a Vogue or a Harper's Bazaar cover. Conde Nast, the parent company of Vogue, Glamour, Mademoiselle, etc., pays a flat $200 daily rate for editorial modeling; the worst Scrooge, British Vogue, pays even less. Make no mistake though, $200 a day, or less, is the shortcut to the millions. It la this type of high-fashion edi­ torial exposure that puts a model into the top conventional (not super- . star) category that commands | $4,000 a day or $500 an hour ($4,000 i divided by eight) for commercial | work. i From everybody's point of view, \ the more a model earns, the better. S^he supports many people. The New k'York agency takes 15 to 20 percent I commission. Out of this -- not out of i the model's earnings -- 5 percent t goes to the "home base" agent, if j she started somewhere else (proba- • bly a smaller town). The home base • will continue collecting 5 percent of r everything "its" model earns, J worldwide. . -- \ On the West Coast, models earn > considerably less, than in New York. J San Frandsco photographer Brad v Mollath, whose ads for Wilkes Bash- \ ford appear in Vogue and W, \ explains: i "There are a lot of great models | in San Francisco, but they don't \ totally compare to New York mod- \ els who are absolute superstars and J worth every penny. A New York • model looks on her-work as a busi­ ness. She is in total control of her body, clothes, face; she under­ stands lighting." What does it take to get started? The first step is a good portfolio. "A model must understand she's 4$ business for herself," says Mol­ lath. "She must have a portfolio printed, with photo cards, and she must be aggressive enough (on go- sees) to get the work." v;Avmodel must ^e prepared to nave her hair\cut and she must know how to move. "There should be classes to teach models how to move," the photographer continues, "because they don't know. Here tlfey're still posing a la Bruce We­ ber (dreamy, standing still, affect­ ed). That's completely finished. Now the European magazines are full of knock-kneed '60s poses. Mod­ els should buy copies (of Elle, French Vogue, Marie-France, etc.) and practice and practice and prac- • tice -- notice how and where the hand is placed -- and worry less about looking into the camera all the time." Next comes that ego-building stepping stone, a European tour for editorial experience that can lead to Big American Bucks. Models also need to know the poli­ tics of the business, such as the famous rivalry between the two top New York agencies, Ford and Elite. John Casaiblancas, president of Elite, once told People magazine that Eileen Ford has a lot of ene­ mies. He called her "Mr. Hyde" and Jerry Ford "Dr. Jekyll." Every agent is on the lookout for new models. Ford has the "Face of the '80s" competition, and Casa- blancas has "The Look of the Year" contest. This year's "Look of the Year" runner-up, Christina Land­ man, received a $50,000 Elite model­ ing contract. In the superstar category, Ford has (apart from Brinkley and Tiegs) Renee Simonsen, Cristina Ferrare and Catherine OxAerg (Dynasty); Elite has the le^fidary Iman, Kim Alexis and one of hottest properties, the outspoken Paulina Porizkova (who telKevery- one that she hates modeling and wants to write childrens books). Females are only half the story. With increasing volume and grow­ ing interest in men's fashion, male models have come into their own. They have achieved equal' status and equal pay (though there' is more work for women) in a profession that was once equated tc/the job of a gigolo, where not so long ago a serious, straight man would not have been caught dead, (in or out of focus, as a background, for some female fashion produc Justin Alain, co-foukder of the new Alain and Hart Agency in San Francisco (Hart is Sarah Hart, one of Jimmy Galanos' favorite mod­ els), once worked in New York as a "hand" model. "A nine-day booking for a Harry Winston auction catalog paid $13,500," he says. "But another time, a split nail from banging on a phone booth which swallowed my last dime lost me an $800 job. And the drill was extraordinary: mani­ cure twice a week, sleeping in heavy cotton garden gloves with a facial moisturizer, which I also ap­ plied six to 10 times a day." Models of both sexes aim for the swasp image. Ethnic looks are out. i Jimmy Grimme, who has models forking all over the world (at the ime of writing, 16 in Paris, nine in Florence, seven in Milan -- includ­ ing the Armani man, Phillip Brecker - nine in New York, 12 in Japan) explains: "There are four agencies from Japan scouting in the U.S. They rarely take blacks and never a Jap­ anese-American or a Chinese-Amer­ ican model. The ethnic look (includ­ ing Jewish) is very hard to sell anywhere." 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