Our Letter From Paris PARIS, June 27. | ROBTTY toilets of diaphanous mates, Pp Fials are making their appearance t tbe morning on the long walka in the Bois, and many are the little Phere is @ valois ruff made of soft chiffon tulle there are small bunaties of velvet pansies or blue hy- acinths nestling coyly in the black tulle Tuching around the neck, and there are little bunches of bright spring blos- somes which make dark blue morning Novel fashions to be noticed. or "'ninon de sole"; costumes look attractive and neat. Large cloohe-shaped hats of white, dark blue or gray straw are trimmed with pleated linen or wide valenciennes lace, pleated and frilled, and bunehes of flowers are scattered about the ruche. Dressy hats are of costly materials, with their trimmings of ostrich feath- ere and algrottes, A "Compromise" Hat A new hat ie called the capelino, which seems to indicate a compromise between One mole-colored erin with a wide drapery of motre round This soft silk connects a large mole-coleored owl on to a cluster of purple roses and foliage on the other. The result of these contrasting colers @ cap, a hat and a bonnet. Capeline is shown of taffeta in the samo the front of the crown. shade one side of the brim is delicious, The meager ungurled ostrich feather has returned to popularity, and is seen on quite one-half of the modiste's lat- A touch of green--grass green, apple green, pea green, peacock serpent green--any green btit paris green--is seen on almost every- Many arcen straw hats are trimmed with black taffeta, tulle and feathers, while black hats are trimmed In fact, green, black and white are three favorite colors of the moment. Khaki comes next, but it is more used for gowns than for millinery. The soml-emplre style js still popular, The waist line is well defined just be- although the skirt fits est creations. green, costume, with bright green. low the bust, closely to the figure. Frilling for Collar A high featherboned collar the neck, French women are very chary of wearing jewels. At present only simple line of pearls around the neck or a platinum chain Even in the avoid Jewels as much is permissible, and jewoled pendant. evening they is al- Ways completed by a tiny frilling, which almost covers the muoh brush- ed up and waved hair at the nape of nier cri' for summer wear. broidered linen and much ornamented, the mesh, a These new waists are mostly tucked in groups of three and five--the tucks UB DB LA PAIX and the Place R Vondome réport that tulle or wash net blouses are the "der- The famovs dressmakers of the French cap- {tal insist that this sheer and durable material will be far more popular for the coming season than will hand-em- nainsook, which have been worn fpr so long. Of course, there is a reagon Why not should be pop- ular; {t does not orush as do linen and cotton materials, nor need net be so for it is of itself more or less ornamental, according to may be large or small--and they are al- ways worn with a jabot and a little black band, which ig fastened at either the top or bottom of the collar to give a slight amount of color to the com- plexion of the wearer--as black always does. One of the many advantages of the new waists {gs that they may, without much dificulty, be made at home; their cut is entirely simple and net is ex- tremely easy to tuck, for all one nega do {s to follow the line of the mesh and sew it on with the machine or by hand --Paris says the work must be done in the latter way. It is best, of course, to reinforce the net so that it will not be too transparent, and when it ig substan- tlally tucked {t has a certain amount of body. The jabots worn with these blouses are so arranged that they hide the fastening down the front; a blouse with a pendent collar fastened in the back Seems to totally lack raison d'etre. Another advantage of these net waists is that they may be easily dyed to match the color of the sult with which they are worn, The white blouse with a colored sult has gone out of fashion for the moment, although it will undoubtedly he revived at some not far distant time. Then, too, these waists may be easily washed. Think of the cémfort of having a blouse washed without hav- ing to have it ironed, for such is the case with the net blouse. Such an innovation will save many laundry bills, and the appearance of the blouse will only be improved by this seem- ing neglect. One of the blouses is pleated, pleats running up and down in front in a straight line across the shoulder and round and round the sleeves, The collar is tucked, while the black satin band is tied in a tiny bow just below the Inevitable frill. The jabot is made of the selvage of the net itself, which ripples up to the throat, where it is tied in rather a wide bow. Another waist is tucked in groups of three. A broad jabot covers the the the OF TULLE front, and the little band of black Satin ribbon ties round the bottom of the collar. These last two waists de- scribed are made with long sleeves-- the former with two ruffles at the hand, the latter with a turned-back cuff edged with a ruffle. These ruffles must of necessity be straight, not bias material, for the latter is al- most impossible to manage. Another blouse is made in small tucks in groups of five. down the front and is finished with a double ruffie of te net. A narrow band of velvet ties round the neck and fastens in the front with a little buckle, from which are pendent two ends of the velvet. as possible, using only an ornament in the hair. A peculiar note was recently shown in the selection of a veil, which must match neither the hat nor the dress, In fact, it must be of either spotted or plain tulle, in a quite contrasting color to the rest of the costume, One costume lately seen was a green all cashmere made a Ja incroyable and trim- med with white soutache, With this was worn a little plerrot ruff of black tulle with a line of green tulle in the black, fastened on the right side, where it was tied with a long-ended black yel- vet bow. The hat of green straw was raised on the left side with a soft black rosette, and around the crown middie, just to relieve the Was a coronal of yellow buttercups. ELOISE. creased as do other silks. used, and even hats. Have spring that tussor makes gear? domestic and fewer still know name, age woman, to be very narrow, but re Wider than most other silks. ular of summer materials, and this is for many good reasons. In the first place, the fabric washes and wears well, and does not become It may be too, for so many purposes-- tailored suits, afternoon dresses, coats we not heard the newest and lightest of summer head- Pre is perhaps the most pop- But, in spite of its popularity, few persons know the difference between imported pongee, and each variety by There has been much talk of mirage and tussor, but the connec- tion between them, and the quality of each, 1s quite unknown to the aver- All varieties of pongee are supposed ly they are As for quality, color and price, each mem- SEEN ber of the family deserves its own history. At first pongee was a very generic term, used to denote an Eastern silk of uneven thread and in the natural, unbleached color only; but when the manufacture in the West was begun the silk was dyed, and each variety was called by a different name. Now the pongee that is known as pongee is a fabric of even and fine thread. It may be purchased in all colors, and is procurable with a faint, even stripe in self-tone. It ts twenty- seven inches in width and costs $1 the yard, The fabric of natural color usually called pongee is known as shantung. The thread is uneven, although it is closely woven, and the material has little luster. It is very coo} and much worn in the Hast, where it is manufactured, Its width is thirty- three inches and its price is §1 the yard. The next member of the family is iN: THE SHOPS tussor--a domestic production, finer of thread than shantung and less un- even. This also comes only in the natural color, and it is quite without luster. It is twenty-six inches wide, and may be bought for 85 cents the yard, A new material called shantung- tussor has been manufactured for automobile coats and strictly tailored suits, This is thick, dull and very wiry; the thread is even, and it is made only in the natural color. It is also domestic, measures a yard in width and costs $1.75. The more dressy pongees are rajah and mirage, both domestic, and beth made in all colors--which accounts for their popularity. The first, rajah, known as the aristocratic member of the family, is a beautiful fabric, much resembling shantung; in fact, they are frequently confused, although the imported silk is never dyed. Rajah is twenty-seven inches wide and costs $1.85 the yard, Mirage is a new relation, very lus- trous, like nothing so much as changeable silk, for the filling thread is a different shade from the warp. The uneven thread running through it proves, however, that it is of the pongee family. It is much used for tailored suits, in spite of, or because of, its satiny appearance. Its price is $1.35 the yard and it measures twen- ty-four inches. These finish the real pongees, al- though there are several cheaper ma- terials, with one silk and one linen or cotton thread. They are pretty, but do not hold their color well. 'They cost 60 cents the yard and are twen- ty-four inches wide. Note Paper Novelties OVEL stationery is shown in a del- icate plaid in pastel shades--dain- tlest lavender and palest pink, lightest green and most indefinite yellows. They are, of course, made of the usual cam- bric papers, which are both smooth and #i easy to write upon, while tie slight plaid or check gives it a touch of indi- viduality. The prettiest of these papers is a light blue and gray plaid, more on a pin-check order, if one may apply such a term to stationery, and it really is far more attractive than it sounds. Of course, there is other note paper in only one pastel shade, which is equally attractive, but not so strik- ing in appearance. Great care must be taken when using thig paper not to use anything but plain black ink, unless one uses a lavender ink to tone in with the stationery. Imagine a brownish ink " anything except a yellow tinted aper! A Silver Watch Holder NEW wrinkle for the toflet table is the watch holder made like a pic- ture frame. It is of sterling silver and the watch fits into the opening, where it is clamped into place, so, when the watch is not in use by the lady her- self, there is a pretty and useful clock on the dresser, It fastens . Woman in Calico and in Satin T IS one thing to get good clothes; it is quite another to wear them well and to keep them good look- ing. When material is selected with great discrimination, style chosen with special reference to fitness, de- sign accepted with an eye to becomes ingness, when the fnished costume comes home--a worl: of art, a argam-- that is not all. A woman, to be always fitly and well gowned, has more to do than merely to select, plan, stand for fit- tings and accomplish all the rest of the strenuous work consequent upon the semi-annual repletion of her wardrobe. She has got to care for these clothes, once she has acquired them, and it ig a toss-up which woman has the more arduous occupation--the woman with a gown or the woman with a full wardrobo! The woman with a gown must needs sow daily on her gown; the woman with a full wardrebe finds variety In her daily task, but is none the less arduous and insistent. So the woman in calico and the woman in satin have just about ap equal amount of responsibility, and, if you notice, you will find this holds in other Mnes besides the clothes line, The Proverbial Stitch "The stitch in time!' How we do hate those trite, old, well-worn, but ever worn out, sayings--especially when we feel that the "oap fits' (an- other too-personal-to-be-polite saying) our own special head. But we cay never get around the truth of them, Very essential is that proverbial stitch in these days of diaphanous fabrics, narrow, close-fitting gare ments, transparent yokes and sleeves; for, one thread broken, the damage is little less complete than when a thread is dropped in a silken stock- ing. Some one asked me the other day how to keep silk stockings from wear- ing out. I could think of no way ex- cept to keep them in the bureau drawer. See to your collars, Bent and broken bones will mar the beauty of the mos? perfect stock, And fresh ruchings® Why, of course; I might treat of those in a story on cleanliness. Bee to your hooks and eyes. Nothing presents a more dejected look than a hanging hook and eye. It has such a reproachful aspect, It, in itself, is per- fectly good and anxious to do duty, but its environment makes it impossible, See to your dress braid. A woman with a frayed deess braid is untidiness personified. If she cannot afford a new one, let her rip the old one off and turn i; upside down; if she has already done this, a it off altogether and go braid- less, ut then the skirt {itself will be- ~ come frayed? Then turn up a new hem, This precesg- may be repeated--not in-+ meer pageal & but for a number of times quite within the bounds of modesty. The petticoat should be an object of special care, It {s easy to pin it up, bat it will last far yonger if you take the despised "stitch." silk petticoat = carded the other day by a falr m had acquired pins approaching fifty- seven varieties. As Important as the Needle The needle is not the only imple. ment required in the making and keeping of clothes. A fatiron is ¢ close second, Pat The tailored skirt, especially, is in constant need of being pressed. The pressing of a sult requires some skill--but more patience and care. | In the case of a pleated skirt, first baste tn place each pleat its entire un- stitched length with fine cotton; coarse thread will leave its imprint after pressing. When a skirt it put over the padded board, place a chair or small table be- neath it to lift the skirt to prevent stretching. Provide two hot irons--heavy irons ar best--and cover the portion to be presse: with a piece of doubled unbleached mus- me enn nk wet, o not "fron," but lHteralty "presa,'* N{ting the fron from place to place rath- er than rubbing it over the surface. The iron should not be allowed to remain too long in one place, or it will leave. its imprint. he seams of coats and sleeves may be pressed over a broomstick which has neee ree padded and covered with muslin. oO berm 717G77 177 4@ Creenand WArle. Walst--two terms of comparative. ly recent origin, and, although { they havo both been used in the past é: fow years, their meanings were not , hearly no distifet as they are at the &y HE lingerle blouse and the tailored present moment. One is allowed to wear a lingerie A blouse may even be appropriately worn with a Mb- erty satin afternoon sult as well ap blouse with a long skirt. with @ broadcloth suit, where the '# long and the cont ts trim and tight- fitting. The taores walet i an eytirely dig- SiN tar wk ta dau itt the ame tap 4 cut walking ¢costuthes of pon- One waist shown today is a striped } Ne rpg t Thére and ever in the atyle of trimming. Gee, nen and woolen materials have acgompanying talloted waists of linen, nainaook or madras, the material vary. ing according to thé style of the mo- i} 4 any varieties of the red waist, fot in Out and in color ees nant inecammeneeee si or LO. "SZ 27, IlInen worn with a most severe linen stook to match the material, This is not ornamented In any way except by the pleat on the shoulder known as the Gibson pleat. This waist would be use- ful for almost any gevere dress. An extremely different type is that made of a bordered linen, This is cut = s Ke py we, ASN SNOW y POLS wig 2 of POTS. Fé " OLIDS G77: in a most peculiar manner so that the front breadth runs up into the oollar, which is a turned-down affair of the border, while a band of the bordering eee angered ae eter nid eS Aas RTE Mo! Od IV: 2, extends from the collar to the edge of the shoulder. : The waist is fastened from neok to belt with tiny, plain pearl buttons. Another very plaip waist is that with collar and ruffle scalloped in eglor, while the cuffs are als @ of the Seaicete mater fe ne att Te ped *, and general effect of this waist is #904, for {t doos not give too full an aut {n the front. Another watet is maids muyoh on the same plan, exeept that it has a graduated ruffle down one side of the front. This is also fotdered in color, and the same Pats is used to make the collar S ' sa re i : ra, ye : Ore? Yex: gait NMOS OGL Srey and cuffs. The tailored waist of a figured muslin shows the return of the double rulfie down the front, which is fin- {shed at neck in a smal) bow. 'The sleoves are tucked lengthwise, which {s a little bit odd, and the cums are turned back and fastoned with pole cuff links usually seen on masculine apparel. All of these waists are very pood looking, and all of them would grace any sort of a morning sult with whioh they were worn, The stvlped ta undoubtedly the most severe of: the lot, and it might potter be reserved for occasions where athletics are to play a part ESCAPES FROM RUSSIAN PRISONS. Revolutionists Have Perpetrated Auda. clous Hoaxes on the Police. No other country has wilnessed so many daring cscapes from prison as has Russia, says Jaakoff Prelooker in an article In the Wide World Magazine, Probably the simplest escape ever effect- e! by a political pyleoner was that of the famous Mile. Sophig Perovskaya. Belonging to the highest Russian aristo- eracy, she jolned the revolutionary moyemcnt, gn at the age of seventeen Hark d hal weet Te is she was again seized, and was sent to {he arcle regions. On the journey Sophie had several opportunities to escape, but the guards were.so k'nd to her that she would not rsk the punishment they would suffer, Finally two guards were put over her Who Wore so brulal (hat she was freéd from conse'entious scruples: One night the party had to stay ata railway station; the two gendarmes slept in the same room as the prisoner, one at the window, the other on the floor before the door, Sophie appearing to be fast asleep, the guards soon fell asleep, too. The prisoner then rose, tried the door, which she found to open outward, slepped across the slumbering guard and was free. She managed to slip into a train for St. Petersburg, while the gendarmes shored on, Sophie took part In the plot for the sagen gee of Alexander IJ., and was hanged iy 188), Apa: £6 Beulsch, the revolutionist, has'a record for repealed arrests and eseapas Which is probably without parallel. Once he escaped through the medium of a hath. The Russian bath is a national institution. The authority which thinks nothing of freezing, knouting and starv- ing its prisoners, never refuses a de- mand for a' bath. Al Russian prisons have _ \heir bathing establishments, where the prisoners are sent under the escort of guards, Deutsch demanded to be taken to a public bath, saying he did not wish to mingle with the criminals, and was al- lowed to go, with three soldiers as es- cort. On arriving, two of the soldiers cok stand before the two windows and the third at the déor, Deulsch undress- ed, and handed his clothing and purse te one of the soldiers. The sckilior felt quite safe, thus holding the vrisener's clothing, for the cold was sco severe there was no question of any one leav- ing the bath naked. . Howaver., when Poulan enigr the hot room be fgund ad "comrade, who by ffeviou§ plan brought him a bundle of ordianary, ci- villian clothing, which Deutsoh pu? on a! onee, and wilh an assured air march- ed out of the premises wit cut any challenge, None of the guards paid any attention to the private . gentleman leaving the baths, and Deutsch easily eseaped. The scld'ers wai'ed long for the Father, and on finding that he had escaped, euld not explain how he got away, Only leng afterward did il dawn cn the ofii- cials that the prisoner must have pass: od the guards in disguise. In 1906 an audacious hoax was pr TLe- trated in Russian Poland which result- ec in the liberation of ien political pris- onens who were condemned to death. The friends who assisted them knew that failure in the slightest delaibof their plan mcant death to themselves as well a. to the "politicals," The prison administratioa received a lelephone message purporting to come from the chief a the city police. saying thal the Govérnd? of Watsaw desired the transfer of the ten prisoners from the Paviak to the citadel. They were to be conveyed by an officer who wouvld tring his own guard. The message was taken in good faith, One evening a man in the uniform of a gendarme officer appeared at the pri- son and: presented an official document ordering the transfer. Jn the whole proceeding there was nothing to rouse suspicion. The officer had brought six policemen with him, and no other escort was sent. The gendarme certified that the prisoners had-been delivered to his charge, . The prisoners were placed in. the car- riage, The only prison servant with the party was the coachman, As the pri- Son van was belng driven down a de. serled street the coachman was chloro- formed, and the next morning was found inside the van, while around were lying prison clothes, uniforms and swords, all that was left of the ten prisoners and their escort. All efforts fo discover the culprits were unsuccess- ful. ---------- DEFINED. Stella--'What is' the rule Bella--"That one ought to It is estimated that at least 32,000 beg- gars in Vienna are making better liv- ings than workmen, of three?" go home," WITTES WORK FOR BLACKS. Order of Things in South Africa, The New Many extragrdinary facts regarding the position of the natives in the Transs vaal are given in a sé of reports just issued by the Transvaal Land Owners' Association. The reports are made by special com- missioners sent out by the association. In one the writer says:-- "It has become quite a common prac- tice for white men to plough tana or natives, The latter pay the former 80 much per acre, "A decided advance is noticeable among the natives as regards their me- thod of cultivation, In former years most of théir land was tilled by women. who 'used the hoe, practically their only implement of agriculture, whereas at present it is quile common to see the men cultivating with ploughs drawn by either oxen or donkeys," : iOS ~ u Another of the commissioners Writers "The rap'd strides the natives ape Maks ng towards civilation and he cures néss they display in endeavor to Tears la read and write have of jate beeonig very marked, T regret to hayeche Say i. but it-appears to me thal the native children. as regards education, are come parative'y advancing more vapidly than the children of the poorer whites, in the oullying districts, "From conversation with tig natives, they all state their willingness to work, kut, as forme rly stated in my repork, not underground. 'They also strongly object to being recriited, as they, with= out exception, all state that they nave been cheated by labor agents to sueh an extent that they prefer to 6 and look for work by themselves, @s they will have to do) and what the remunera. tion will be." Aeeeinemenene YET : The King of Spain is very proud of his knowledge of English slang, and delighte in using it, f