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ERY THURSDAY monumo maxim” pnmrmc HJUSE, MBAFRAXA CREE? A mated. lamest circulati ‘1 m1,woeksy,tem3$3m8 _ L specimen Comes and {813 Ian: tree. Address lest agency or seen re have a mini. rears now Burdock as been permanently Ees of dyspepsia and other remedies were Burdock Blood Bitters 3 bottles and now In meat, ;touch ing in always IFIG Keirstead, Collina, , says : lyspepfiia for yea“ 813" heard of. but got 3“ W I sketch I. tree. win 3510. Com tic 5 need is not arti- but something that tomach right so it c it; own digestiv. ӣ3330” Prepared to do Custom work. 1m GHDPPIHH .dwxu'. New York from his P896" waiting for 83 PATIENT! there ever t0 1! and descfl Wuether an in ”$0 ommumcnt “3’ £°F§e° 9; 94. as ..-"‘-A eat. ‘ nuns mus, 038ml", copvmcun a. t mflfi’1‘ m magma». 80 YEARS: vaamsaot \â€"~____ The uh"which; is the most wide 2‘. d newsl’aber published in county of “raw. tea is put up by the Indian 1:“ q Th 1 83mph of the beat qualities 0‘ IPdm’ I! . mcforc they use the greatast can n: th' . u 0f the Tea. and its bicnd. that is wh}: t'21:" - 9 Main. 1nd sell it only in “‘39 mm 3 h: z Ellie» '. g i‘ts purity and accllgnccr “if E . 1 lb. and 5 b. Mam 3nd neVO- .Cimlar am1 Cross-Cut. Saws I “"1 pt‘epared to fill orders for gOOd Shlngjcs WWW“ SMITH, ' tars, Hot Air Furnacw, Shingle Machinery, Band 83. 8, Emmy Machines hand or power; Creating, Farmers? Kettles, Columns, Church Seat Ends, Bed Fasteners, Fencing, anpâ€"Makers’ Supplies, $011001 Dgsks. Fanning Mill Castings. nght Castings 3nd Builders’ Sup- PiieS, Sole Plates and Points for the Qifi‘erent ploughs in use. Casting "Pairs for Flour and Raw mm. u m nmcx rommn -- WE MAKE -- Furnace Kettles, Power Staw Cut- Farmers. Threshe rs and Millmen Undertaking and Emhalming A SPEC! .{L'I‘Y J. SHEW ELL {FIRST CLASS HEARSE IN CONNECTION UN DERTAKIN G Each week an epitome of the world’s news, articles on the household and farm, and serials by the most popular authors. Its Local News is Complete and market reports accurate .50 (u... a...» orjzofi 3.63 ax. I w ‘UL' FD; The Chromole Contains THE JOB : : oEPARTflEN'T :31 :39?!”er st d. hW '1‘ng :uwith ! s af. DYIRIIME, - 0NT For transient advgrtisements 8 c u mus!” line {or the first xnscqion; 3 c333 : Es . . line each subsequent mscftion-mimo: “ ' pm'essional cardshnot cxceedmg one inch ”per mnum. Adveruscments without pecifi‘ mg“ will'oe published till forbid and cha ed ac W Transient noticesâ€"“ Lost," “ ound,‘ 3’)? o 0 “M5,, ,. “6.50 cents for first insertion, 25 cent: I?“ 3310‘ ~‘ subsequent insertion. B‘mmisements ordered by strangers must be paid Furniture FURNITURE on THE CHRONICLE will be sent to 313: Ml acidic“, {1‘68 O'f p05:agc, {or 5|.00 pc'; . ' year, P393318, m advanceâ€"$1.50 1113} m6 , .i{ not sq Pat‘d‘ [he date to which ever} kyfim is paid 15 (3570th by :11: ngmber on {hf . . . :zcontmucd mm} all arreaz'. ' .3‘ J 1 N " Ci ‘5’:- be! 0 p32”: r n .I ‘ ‘. . ‘ ' . .. , .3 A, a, me optxon of the pmpnetor. JACOB KRESS. Dealer In all kinds of Embalming a apecialty. Prices Outs Emma AND Pnopmmon. 01’ Grey. 5 our and Saw Mills. E REPAIR-- mes. Horse Powers early gdvertisemcnts furnished or. '9 wontc, ‘u bmb‘. Viv “I Fiction sometimes carries weight, and introduces a new fashion which may become: more or less permanent, as for instance, black evening dress for gentlemen, which in Bulwer Lytton’s life is claimed by his son to be due to the novel “Pelham,” wherein Lady Frances Pelham writes to the hero, “ Apropos of the complexion, I did not which is a great compliment, for, peo- ple must be very distinguished in ap- pearance to do so.” “"ill then, reâ€" marks the biographer, “ the coats worn for evening dress were of different col-i ors, brown, green, or blue, according to the fancy of the wearers, and Lord Orford tells me that the adoption of the now invariable black dates from the publication, of ‘Pelham,” All the contemporaries of Pelham would ap- pear to have been simultaneously pos- .sessed with the idea that they were ’entitled to take to themselves the great compliment paid by Lady Frances to her son 1 others recall old ones, as for instance “Cranford,” which has many refer- ences to turbans, patterns, etc., which Mrs. Gaskell remarks were probably worn in the little town of Cranford long after they had disappeared else- where; but then “ the dress of the Cranford ladies is very independent of fashion, as they observe, ‘XVhat does it signify how we dress here at Cran- ford, where everybody knows us?’ and if they go from home their reason is equally cogent: ‘What does it signi- fy how we dress here, where nobody knows us '3’ ’ white muslin as the dress for girls: Ethel Newcome’s “ tall slender figure is concealed in a Simple white muslin robe confined at her slim waist .by an azure ribbon." White muslin 18 the musing conversation be- subject of an , tween Henry Tilney and Catherine Morland; and 'another hero of Jane Austen’s also airs his ideas on white ‘ " Mansfield Park,’ who, when Fanny consults him as to whether her bridesmaid’s gown is too smart for a certain occasion, lays down the law that in white a woman can i {Painters have had an enormous inâ€" fluence on dress. Early in this cen- tury, the simplicity in dress which had then come in was very much due to Romney’s charming figures in white gowns and straw hats, It was a re- action from- the stiff hoops and huge m-onstrosities in the way of headgear a which ini Paris seemed to have reached their zenith just before the Revolu- tion, when women appeared with a whole flower and kitchen garden on their heads, and one lady even bore a representation of a fleet of ships in \full sail. Then simplicity came in, with costumes of classmal type, a re- vival of Greek and Roman draperies, induced by the paintings of David; and as he was an ardent republican, many, adopted his costumes either to hide or!1 to proclaim their real opinions. Hob; bein is our earliest authority for the; real every=~day aspect of English 50-; ciety; he could paint middle-aged and; elderly women in attire suitable to; their age, ,and yet eminently pictur-j esque, and in that way threw the'! weight of his influence on the side of; modest dress for girls and young wo-g men also, it being a peculiar trait inf the world of fashion that if a style is? becoming to any one age, old and: young alike adopt it; probably when! it is a mode becoming to the old, the; younger feel assured that if becomâ€"{ ing to their seniors it must necessarily; 0 be ten times more so to themselves,‘ which it generally is; likewise theI elders, seeing a style very charming to} V‘“V-~’ -"â€"â€"â€"C -- ' the young, hope by adofiting i rejuvenated in others’ eyes as in their own. are so many things in heaven and earth to dream of, among which her own skin-deep beauty and its cover- ings find a very small place. has no such pleasures of vanity in her hard life; the female savage is the inferior in looks and strength, in common with other animals and birds of her. sex, and would not dream of vy- ing with ,the male! Personal, egostical vanity would be a step upward and on- ward for the poor squaw or bushwo- man which might be the spur on to better things, as much as on the oth- er hand it is a drag down for her civilized sister, who knows that there Changes in the fashion of dress are due to many cawivilization, clim- ate, religious and political reasons, convenience and the love of variety. The initial changes come, or grow, ation along with their conquests. One sure sign of further civilization is when women are more gorgeously attired than men, or equally attired. The sav- age dons his war-paint, his necklace of skulls, shell ornaments, or feather cloak, but his wife, who is only his domestic drudge, or beast of burden,i DURHAM CHRONICLE g it to_ be as well as uLUI, U“ V “L many others 'bring to our minds asso- ciations beyond those connected mere- ly with” the article itself. Some words are nearly- lost from th'e object being obsolete. e.g., in 1692. men wore a neckcloth called a Steenkirk, so nam- ed from’ its being first noticed at that a ttree ihat ran 113p» almost to the top of the petticoat. broken and ragged. and worked. with brown chenille, round which twined nasturtiums, (sic) ivy hon« eysuckles. periwinkles, convolvnluses, and .,all. sorts of twining flowers, which spread and covered the petticoat, vines with the leaves variegated as you have seen them* by the sun, all rather small- er than nature. The robings and fac- ings were little green banks with all sorts of weeds, and the sleeves and rest of the gown loose twining bran- ches of' the same as those on the petti- coat. Many of the leaves were fin- ished with: gold. and part of the stumps of the trees looked like the gliding of the sun. I never saw a pieee of work; so prettily fancied.” Some articles of dress are always as- sociated with “the name of their in. ventor. or their first wearer, a fashion long after others have given it up; as, for instance, if a “ Glad- stone” were not already an expand. ing traveling bag. it might give a name to a certain collar. Wellington and Blncher boots, Capuchin hood; red Gal-i. baldi, Cavalier hat and feathers. and --__ ____ J I [i their outward and visible signs in the I matter of’ dress. Monks and nuns have tidonned a habit as a protest against ,1 worldly apparel, as a sign of fellowship I with each other, and for the sake of geconomy of time, thought and money, ’I as do our sisterhoods of the present " day. In cases when conventual houses ,; become lax, as at Port Royal before IAngelique Arnauld’s time, the lady gabbesses and their nuns exchanged: 5 their coarse serge for softer materials? _ and even silk, and later for an alto-I geth’er worldly garb, Quakers, in the! : same way, breaking through their first} Istrictness, were their garbs and drabsj iin more delicate shades and finer ma-? Iterials. In other ways also has dress! Ibeen influenced by religion. Silk hadI ;been made in England in the time ofI ’ Henry VI., but the first great impulse! Ito its manufacture here was due to. ithe immigration of Flemish weavers} iin 1585, who fled from the Low Conn-g 3tries, which were being harried and! ; devastated by the Spanish persecutions? iJust a hundred years later a second; Iimpetus was given by the revocation gof the Edict of Nantes, when a large; :body of French artisans scattered? Ithemselves to Germany, Switzerland; fand Engla‘nd; those who sought Briâ€"; Itish protection settling themselves in; , Spitalfields. I Religious protests have often shown E Early in the reign of George I. there were riots of the wool and silk weavers, ; who protested against the fashion then coming in of women, both in the upper and lower classes, wearing Indian chintzes, and Dutch printed calicos. The many attacks in the streets on women so attired led ultimately to leg- islation. and calico gowns were forbidâ€" den to‘ be worn. So all the dainty cot- ton dresses were pulled to pieces and turned into quilts and futniture covers. Then a fashion came in of embroider- ing fine ‘holland elaborately, the linen, which was made in England, being sent as was that from other countries, to be bleached on 'the famous bleaching grounds of Haa‘rlem. and then return- ed as xhollamd. 'A lady in the reign of George I. speaks of a wonder in ems broidered gowns, and though the one; she describes is of white satin, no; doubt the holland dress would not be} far behind in elaboration. She was at the Princess Royal’s wedding. and af- terward wrote: "The Duchess of Queensbury’s clothes pleased me best; they were white satin embroidered, the bottom of the petticoat brown hills covered with all sorts of weeds. and every breadth held an .old .stum'p of 1L . L-â€" â€"w â€"w. V“A“B“LU U‘ vertugale, i.e., meaning vertical bands, was worn first by French and Spanish ladies; in' England it reached enormous dimensions in Elizabeth’s time. The crinoline was a faint imitation of it. and was in and out of fashion alternate- ly, bufl had a long reign when‘ the Em- press Eugenie revived it in 1855; a few years since 'an attempt to again bring it into fashion utterly failed, mostly because women each year are now adopting clothing suitable to their oc- cupation. There is an amusing pas- sage in Prof. Owen’s ’life, when in Noâ€" vember, 1859, he goes to a great civic dinner: “ Next me was a young bride with widely developed skirt. Her hus- band and’ I had to lift her, first upon the table, then to dold her nether half tig'htly up, and glide her in like a the ‘form ’ which was fixed close to mummy! Saem operation needed with everybody, and ib. to get them out.” Probably now Wotmen dress in a garb congruous to their more active pursuits and methods of getting about, the crin- oline will remain at a discount, un- less it: should come in for evening wear, as its one virtu‘e is that it can show up a handsome design on a brocade, For cycling, golf or stepping up to the top of an omnibus, it would decidedly be‘ best to be conspicuous by absence. never be overdrgssgd. Mrs ', October 12, 1899. is?” \Vomen are gradually adopting a sen t; more workmanlike attire, such as men ;have long considered a desideratum [£33.2ng themselves, suiting their clothing lad g to their. occupations, not limiting their 1 eg' occupations from regard to their £18 lclothes. Bicycling, golfing, walking, ne- ‘ ' cessxtate more or less short skirts, and the' in many wardrobes the tailor almost ’irstioPSts the .dressmaker. It is true the tabs? riding hablt’ has long been worn, but 5 only for the last five and twenty years ma-I can it; be said to be workmanlike. When 1:33; we» see prints of hunting and meets of 3f; thirty and. forty years back, and note 3 0 a the veil flying in the wind: and the ex- ulse; tra yard of skirt almost reaching the L to,‘ ground, we feel thankful that, as shown ”31‘s; by those pictures, women riders seem “mg; to have been a very small minority. an QLong skirts and trains probably will onsw continue to exist for evening wear, as (Ind-they are becoming in giving height. tron] \Ve remember Du Maurier’s confession .rge, that, though often determining to ’red5draw a short woman as a varietY~ he 31351; never could resist the temptation, when 3111‘3the pencil was in his hand, of giving my the extra inch or two to bestow grace and stateliness; and..as a rule. women; Lerei try to increase their height, which is 813.3 one reason why perpendicular lines in hen; dress are so much often in fashion than {perg horizontal ones. \Ve hear the 25-inch; ilaniwaist of the Venus of Medici is be-i COS~jcoming the recognized size, heaven on save the mark! are all women the same $8“ height cast: in the same mold? in place 31d-} of the regulation half yard, which has 30t-’ too long been the standard, and this Indlmore healthv innovation comes from ers.1 women having a more artistic idea of ler-ibeauty, as well as from increasing l Len, their healthful modes of exercise. There enti are three points women should bear in ' be, mind when selecting their gownsâ€"suit- ing i ability to their age, their personal ap- l‘n-ipearance and their occupations; and 'Of’afterâ€"closely after â€" these points em- should come the question of pictur- me esqueness and individuality, which no should make the outward garb express bfiscmvewhat of the inward spirit of the at z wearer. (they say that things is gettin’ con sarnedly rottpn oggr _in_ old_Pgris. "They must be. â€"Thet last lot 0' pari: green yI bought wan‘t wuth shacks Inquisitive people are the funnels of conversation; they do not take in any- thing for their own use. but merely to 0388 it- to another.â€"-Steele. No man ever did a designed injury to another but at the same time he did a greater to himself.â€"Home. When a man dies, for years the light he leaves behind him lies on the paths of menâ€"Longfellow. A man cannot leave a better legacy to the world than a wellâ€"educated tam- ily.â€"-Thomas Scott. Industry keeps the body healthy, the mind clear. the heart whole and the purse full.â€"-C. Simmons. Irresolution frames 3. thousand hor- rors, embodying each.â€"J. Martyn. No one will maintain that it is better to do injustice than to bear it. A man of integrity will never (isten to any plea against conscienceâ€"Home. A grateful dog is better than an un- grateful man .â€"Saadi. It will always do to change for the better.â€"-Thomson. Influence is the exhalation of char- acter.â€"\V. M. Taylor. They that know no evil will suspect none. Ben Jonson. one can be said to be independent of dress; a judge or bishop must be extra dignified to whom the judicial robes or episcopal cassock and sleeves do not give an ’added power. A schoolmaster and college tutor strike scholastic awe into their pupils far more with cap and gown than without, and country jurors are impressed with the psycho- logical atmosphere in presence of the bewigged and. gowned barristers, much beyond what they would feel were those limbs of the law in plain clothes and natural hair, or baldness, like themselves. A man whose head is Shaved is almost bound to look a crim- inal or. a lunatic. The end of the nineteenth century we Proudly claim as an age of science and progress and, in some ways we may hope that both are influencing the art of dress, though some women who are behind the age still seem to apply the rule for moralsâ€"to know yourself, study others; to know oth- ers, study yourselfâ€"to their rules for dress! Dressmakers can still give in- stances of customers insisting on their gowns being made with as small or smaller waists than those of their slimmer acquaintances; and how often do we hear such remarks as “ How ptretty Scuandso looked in that new hat today! I must get one like it.” And the speaker perhaps has no re- gard to such small matters as com- plexion, general suitability, etc. No battle, and; for a similar reason a fam- ous wig in 1706 was called a Ramillies. Last century a certain greactoat was called a Benjamin from being slight- ly QiSSimilar to a Joseph, which probâ€" €1ny gained its name from being made in various colors. The Ulster is a gar- ment which has survived many fash- ions; aloose, long frieze coat, first made in Ulster, its origin lost in ob- scurity, though we do not believe, as Noah’s Ark models would wish us to do, that it was known in the days of Noe, that “ time of universal nega- tion,” as some one defined it. There is a romantic history attached to some quaintly colored and knitted things of Shetland make. Fair Isle, one of the Shetlands, has long been famous for knitted hosiery, gloves, etc., of curious color and design, and the natives’ ability to make them dates back to the Armada time, when a Spanish ship was wrecked there, nd the sailors, being forced to stay he winter, taught the Fair Islanders,both the designs and the way to make new dyes from the plants and lichens round THE PROOF BEFORE HIM. PEARLS OF TRUTH. Domestcâ€"Well, you see, the misses died last month. The house is lonely now., I suppose, ’Tain’t that; but now the missus is dead. the master blames everything on Employment Agentâ€"Why do you leave a place in which you have wag-1;- ed_ 60 many years? The day was Sunday, and all the shops, including the manufacturer’s place, were ’clased. The clerk returned to the.‘post-orfice, and explained his plight to the superintendent. This official ordered him to take the first train to Derby the next morning, ex- plain the whole circumstances to he owner of the handcuffs, apologize t; him, and then return to Birmingham, and go to the manufacturer’s and have the handcuff filed off. The young man went to the police station, and an otficer round a key that he thought would fit but in turn- ing it round, he broke it off. in the cuff. Now! the broken key nould have to be drilled out, or the handculf ril- cd tfhrough, before the clerk could get it o f. seen with their Waistcoats off to find {suspenders set at uneven heights. 'l'he ivariation in the suspenuers might be 'required, to he sure, by a diherence in the shoulders, and not in the legs. It "is common to fin-.11 men’s arms of dif. ferent lengths. The difference may 'be so slight as to require no special at. 7 tention in the making of their clothes, but it is frequently necessary to make the coat sleeves of uillerent lengths. 'Clhe fact appears to be that there are in0t many perfect men, that is, men 0! perfect symmetry of proportions, in ‘which respect man is like all things else in nature, like horses, for in-. 'stance, an-i trees; but in the greater 'number of men these defects are with- 'in such limits that they might be des- cribed as variations rather than as substantial defects. They were an object of curiosity to the clerks, and presently one 01 the young 'men jocularly clasped one of the cuffs around his left wrist. IL was then that he discovered that there was no key to unfasten it. The handcuff was on his wrist “ to stay.” A Young Man's IIXperlence “'1“: a PM! of iiandcun‘s. A somewhat distressing but am doubtedly righteous retribution, re~ cently overtook a clerk in the British postal service at Birmingham. Among the packets received at the office one day was one containing a pair of hand- cuffs, which were being sent from Den- by to a manufacturer in Birmingham to be fitted with a key. The paper covering of the parcel had been torn during transit, so that the handcuffs were exposed to view. The physical defect most common in man is unevenness of the shoulders, remarks a writer who has been inves- tigating the subject. One shoulder is higher than the Other, and this is a de- feCL often encountered, though the dif- ference in the height may not be so great as to be noticeable, except by one accustomed to taking note of such things. This is a defect that is easily overcome by the tailor, when it exists in a comparatively moderate. degree. It is done sometimes simply by cut- ting the coat to fit each shoulder, the perfect fitting coat carrying with it the idea and the appearance of sym- metry. Sometimes, and this is com- monly done in cases of more pronunc- ed difference, symmetry is attained by the familiar method of building up or padding the lower shoulder. The in- fluence of the lower shoulder extends down on that side of the body, so that some-times it is necessary below the; arm to cut that side of the coat short~ er. Next to unevenness of shoulders round shoulders are perhaps the com- monest defect. a man finds one leg of his trousersâ€"- the legs as he knows being alike in length â€" touching the ground while the other clears it â€" he may reason» ably consider that there is a difference somewhere in his legs. It may be that one leg is ltnger than the Other,but it is more probaole that one hip is higher than the other, or one leg fuller, so that it takes up the trousers more and gradually raises the bottom more. It would be a common th..ng if men were A very common thing is unevenness of the hips. A difference of hali an inch here would th be at all remark- able; it is sometimes much more. It Uneven Shoulders, Arms, legs and lips Probably .llost Numerous. A man can be measured to the best advantage, tailors say, away- from a glass. Standing before a mirror, ho is almost certain to throw out his chest, if he does not habitually carry it so,- and take an attitude that he would like to have, rather than the one he commonly holds; whereas the tailor wants him, as the portrait painter wants his subject, in‘ his natural pose and manner. With the man in that attitude the tailor can bring his art of bearâ€"if that’s required â€" in the over- coming of any physical defect, and pre- duce clothes that will give the best ate tainable effect upon the tigure as they will be actually worn. PHYSICAL DEFECTS AMONG MEN. A HARD POSITION TO FILL PENALTY 0F CURIOSITY.